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Hi. I have a 347 Stroker and it was running fine until recently. I had a tune out on there for driveability because it was bucking and surging at low RPM.

Anyway, after the chip went in the car started stalling randomly. It drives perfectly normally until you go to stick it at like 3500 in any gear. Like a race pull. You let it sit at 3500 for like 15 seconds and then when you slam the gas, the car just shuts off. Electrical is all still on and the Tach starts bouncing all around.

I had him take the chip out and the fuel smell came back and I thought I had the problem solved and now it’s doing it again.

My mechanic is putting a new distributor in a we tried his test unit and the car died right away. Only restarted when we unplugged the TFI.

I feel like they are never going to find this problem. It’s driving me crazy. I never know if my car is going to shut off on a hot or not. Plus, it’s dangerous shutting off in the middle of the road. The car will not restart until you cycle the key off.

The MAF is inside the fender well. The guy who did that had to lengthen the wires from the original location. Is it possible something is lose?

I’m in South Florida and I just can’t seem to get to the bottom of this. New distributor going in tomorrow, but I do t think that’s going to do it.

Anybody have any ideas so I can actually have some fun with this car?
 

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well if it continues to do the same thing without the tune....you mention a hard pull meaning the engine is torqued up, might be pulling on the salt and pepper connectors or something else. might want to just give the wiring a sanity check.
 

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well if it continues to do the same thing without the tune....you mention a hard pull meaning the engine is torqued up, might be pulling on the salt and pepper connectors or something else. might want to just give the wiring a sanity check.
Yeah. That’s when it does it. If you get it on slowly it’s fine. This would be like a pull next to somebody. I was racing a friend, I hit the gas and it it shut off. Pardon my ignorance, I’m new to Foxes, where are the salt and pepper connectors?
 

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Loose ground or 10 pin connectors. Every damn time I had gremlins in the past it was always related to those points.

I'd also like to add, given the age and temperaments of these cars if it's not stock, you're going to become broke fast having a speed shop constantly fix them. They have 30+ year old wiring in them now. Connectors rotting, wire breaking inside insulation, ect... I finally got rid of all my gremins when I ripped it all out and did a stand alone.
 

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if you can, get it to operating temp

retrieve engine on and off codes

report codes you get both on and off

as soon as you hear, lengthen MAF wires, you have to suspect this

the MAF is the MOST IMPORTANT sensor

it could be going into limp mode, and having it not calibrated correctly, limp mode will NOT work
 
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Discussion Starter #11
if you can, get it to operating temp

retrieve engine on and off codes

report codes you get both on and off

as soon as you hear, lengthen MAF wires, you have to suspect this

the MAF is the MOST IMPORTANT sensor

it could be going into limp mode, and having it not calibrated correctly, limp mode will NOT work
[/QUOTE

I don’t know how to pull codes off OBD1 and I just got it back. Still doing it. I’m so frustrated I literally don’t know if I should sell the car.
 

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buy a cheap code reader, or google the paper clip trick, or use an analogue meter

or

sell it
 
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Like it's already been said, need the codes. Easy to do via the jumper method that Indy suggested. The attached was the first result in a quick Google search.

You can also check the MAF wiring where it's been lengthened. Make sure it hasn't come unplugged. If you lose the MAF signal, it will do exactly as you described.

Get a new mechanic, too. If they are swapping out distributors or (insert random part here) and hoping that will fix it, they don't know what they are doing.
 

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probably just has the wrong firing order,,,,,,,
 

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Hi. I have a 347 Stroker and it was running fine until recently. I had a tune out on there for driveability because it was bucking and surging at low RPM.

Anyway, after the chip went in the car started stalling randomly. It drives perfectly normally until you go to stick it at like 3500 in any gear. Like a race pull. You let it sit at 3500 for like 15 seconds and then when you slam the gas, the car just shuts off. Electrical is all still on and the Tach starts bouncing all around.

I had him take the chip out and the fuel smell came back and I thought I had the problem solved and now it’s doing it again.

My mechanic is putting a new distributor in a we tried his test unit and the car died right away. Only restarted when we unplugged the TFI.

I feel like they are never going to find this problem. It’s driving me crazy. I never know if my car is going to shut off on a hot or not. Plus, it’s dangerous shutting off in the middle of the road. The car will not restart until you cycle the key off.

The MAF is inside the fender well. The guy who did that had to lengthen the wires from the original location. Is it possible something is lose?

I’m in South Florida and I just can’t seem to get to the bottom of this. New distributor going in tomorrow, but I do t think that’s going to do it.

Anybody have any ideas so I can actually have some fun with this car?
Is it a bama tune and chip because those things are straight garbage. Did what you're experience to my car. Ruined 3 ecu's.
 

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I recommend looking at the TFI module. My 87 Mustang would just quit and after a while start up. After doing this a few times I researched and replaced the TFI and have had no more issues. Something to consider.
 

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you recommend looking at TFI or replacing it?

i look at mine all the time, it aint broke
 

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