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hey i know this is some where on here already but have any of u auto guys done the jerry mod and how hard is it to do?? also what exactly does it do is it better than a valve body or abou the same any info would be great
 

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its the same valve body and don't quote me on this but I know you drill out some holes to help it fil with fluid quicker thus shifting quicker. I went with a Fordchip instead it made it shift nice and firm
 

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I considered doing the J-mod, but it looks to be more complicated than I wanted to attempt, but I hear it is a great free mod.

You can just buy a plug and play Valvebody by PA that will work just as well or better and is much simpler, but you will spend some decent money.

When all was said and done, I put in a B&M tranny cooler and had Kauffman Motorsports burn my specified shifting calibrations on to my Autologic chip, I am very satisfied.

They put in my specified upshift and downshift speeds and set the firmness just perfect, not too much line pressure to damage the tranny, but enough to get meaty chirps on WOT upshifts.

I'm sure many people will tell you that using the chip is just a band-aid, but band-aids work and only hurt if you rip them off.

For now, I am very happy with this solution.

Good luck,
Howard
 

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With your mods and it being street driven. Theres no need really to do a valve body or TQ converter unless you really want to spend the money. Its by far the best rt, to go but just getting a chip and a dyno tune to bring you great results thus saving you around 2 grand. And the jerry mod thing well i would be against that and would rather buy a new vb for it. I have seen very bad results when that mod is not done right too the tee. Just do the chip.
 

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EVIL GT said:
With your mods and it being street driven. Theres no need really to do a valve body or TQ converter unless you really want to spend the money. Its by far the best rt, to go but just getting a chip and a dyno tune to bring you great results thus saving you around 2 grand.
The advantages of a good aftermarket converter cannot be compensated for with a stock transmission with valve body and shifting mods. There is a bigger difference overall with a T/C, and it's worth the money ..if you have it.
 

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I did the Jerry Mod. If you are at a point for a trans fluid change this is the best time to do it ro you want more performance . You will want to flush the whole thing while you are at it. 12 qts of Dexron V! If you have 99+ it is even less money than my 97. On 98 back they put in aluminum accumulator piston which scored the accumulator cylinder. My car has only 35k on it and it had already had mild scarring. Just used Scotch Brite like they said on it and installed the newer style piston in the 1-2 & the 2-3 cylinders. The pistons add about 28.00 to the deal. This according to Jerry will save my tranny from premature failure by 50%?

The actual mods of drilling and changing of the springs is not a problem, they are easy. The drudgery of all the fluid all over the place can be a pain. Having a lift would be great! Make sure you have some oil dry and keep sweeping out the excess you may spill. Have a large drain pan combination container for the fluid. It is not a clean job so have alot of shop towels and GoJo around. Another tip is to get the car as high as you can on your jack stands front and rear so you can move around under the car. It took me about 6-8 hours to do this taking my time since I was a virgin to this.

I went with the mild setup on the separator plate. For the springs I took out both bottom springs ( 2-3 only has one in it) replaced the 1-2 stock Orange with a Blue spring. The part#s numbers are all provide on the site. The blue spring is stiffer than the orange. The interesting thing is that they say to buy a purple lower for the 1-2 but mine already had this one in it. Do not buy if yours is the purple too. If think that you do not want it as aggressive by just using the blue only, use the purple bottom stock spring with the stronger blue and it will give you the middle of the road shifting.

With my setup with alot of help from the Corral folks here, I am really satisfied. When I am just driving easy or law abidingly you would not know it was modified. You can feel it shifting quicker but not jerky. If I go about half throttle I get a mild chirp. When I get into it, it will give you good manual shift feel powershift and about a 10ft scratch. Third is slightly harder and much crisper. When it shifts their is no slip slide slow shifting like before. If you want to accelerate fast without chirping I just let up a little as if I have stick before it shifts. Or manually shift and let up before. My car is relatively stock and it is a great mod so do not let these guys tell you it is not a good mod.

The drill bits cost about 10.00 from a tool shop or Sears.
Ford Dealer for all these- Gaskets, 5.00
Blue Accumulator spring, 20.00.
98 back Accumulator pistons- 1-2 & 2-3, 25.00
 

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It's been about 12k miles since I did the j-mod on my 95 AODE, and I love it. I even re-used the stock 95 VB.

Doing the mod is not hard... you just have to be very careful to keep everything clean, torque all the bolts, and drill the right holes.
 

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JArnold gave a great writeup and I agree entirely. The J-mod will firm up the shifts - still smooth at low throttle, but nice and firm at WOT. My old 95 Tbird used to squeak the 1-2 every once in a while on a WOT shift. Just follow the directions carefully and don't rush. The J-mod is a lot safer than any aftermarket shift kit, it uses genuine Ford parts, and it's dirt cheap.. what more could you ask for? I've done 3 of them so far, they really arent hard.
 

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I thought about the J-mod, but it just seemed like too much work.

The local guy custom built me a custom shift kit when he installed the converter. :evil:

I must say, I like :)

-Will
 
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