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Today I was low on gas but not so low that my low fule dummy light was on. So I filled it up ad when I got t work I noticed my low fuel light on and my gas needle had dropped all the way down. :confused: So I turned off the car and started it up, finally after 3 tries of doing that it went back to full where it should have been.

So I am driving home today and while on the Freeway tand it happens agin! The needle just dropped! I get to a red light shut of the car and start it back up, the needle went back up and no mor elow fuel light. I get home, slow down before I drive up my driveway and it happens again! :mad:

Has anyone hads this problem? Mind you all the other Gauges are working fine, just the gas gauge. Is there something I can check?

Thanks!
 

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00SilverGT said:
Has anyone hads this problem? Mind you all the other Gauges are working fine, just the gas gauge. Is there something I can check?
My Panoz uses the Ford gauges & my fuel gauge got stuck on Full. Here is the transcript of the email I exchanged with Panoz to fix it; it may help you diagnose & fix the problem.

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There are two metal circular pieces bolted to the top of the right side of the fuel tank. One has a red plastic connector in the middle, the other has a grey plastic connector. Each connector has two prongs sticking up, and each has a wire connector plugged into it.

The red one is the fuel pump; I know this because when it's plugged in I can hear it running, and when I unplug it, the fuel pump stops, a few seconds later the engine bogs and then I plug it back in and the engine recovers.

The grey one is the fuel level sender unit. When I unplug it, nothing happens. The fuel gauge does not move; it stays in the F position whether or not it is plugged in. I measured the resistance between the two metal prongs sticking up out of the grey piece attached to the fuel tank. The resistance was infinity -- whether or not the engine was running.

From your description, it sounds like the sender unit is the entire circular piece (not just the grey connector in the center). If so, then to replace it I would remove the 5 bolts that go through the metal ring that holds the sender unit to the top of the fuel tank, lift out the entire assembly and install the new one. "Clocking" it into place would mean ensuring that the new piece is rotated with the same orientation as the old one, before dropping it in and reattaching the bolts.

I pulled the sender unit from the tank and compared it to the one you sent me, because you said I'd have to switch the float assembly from the old one to the new one. The old one has a float wire that is about twice as long as the new one. So before switching the float wire over, I tested both units with my multimeter.

The new one appeared to work, but so did the old one -- except that the old one would jump intermittently to infinite resistance due to a loose connection in the variable resistor. Since I'd have to disassemble this anyway to switch the float wire over the new sender unit, I took a closer look and realized that the thin copper strip that contacts the metal housing on one side and the variable resistor pickups on the other side, had lost its "spring", so it would lose contact with one side or the other. So I flexed its arms out to make a more solid contact with each side. Then, when I reassembled it, it worked perfectly.
 

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Yo! I'm suffering from the same issue. Did you ever get yours resolved? It just started happening to me last week.
 

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Bickity said:
Yo! I'm suffering from the same issue. Did you ever get yours resolved? It just started happening to me last week.
Sure. Panoz mailed me a new sender unit but I never needed it so it's sitting in my garage as a spare. The post to which you replied describes what I did and how I did it. It still works perfectly to this day.

Good luck,
 
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