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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Blew the alternator fuse link this morning on my 88. It melted all the way into the factory "splice". This is the rubber joint where the 10ga and 18 ga wires from the alternator are "spliced". The 18ga wire was broken and I think this is what caused the link to trip.

My question is should I solder these wires together, wrap them and use the stock fuse link....Or

Use a separate fuse link on each wire, a 14 on the 10ga wire and a 22ga on the 18 ga wire?

All input is greatly appreciated.
 

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I assume you still have the stock 2G alternator. All the charge wires are 10AWG, all of them, there is no 18AWG. Broken wire will not cause fuse link to blow, maybe a short. The reason 2 wires join to form 1 wire is for redundancy, if one contact on the connector becomes burned, you've got the second contact as a backup. Another Ford "good idea" which didn't work very well. You should replace the alternator connector, if you're going to stick with the 2G and replace all the wire with 8 or 10AWG and one 14AWG fuse link to replace the one that burned out.

Better yet, replace the alternator with a 3G and upgrade wiring to 4AWG. It will cost more money, but you will be rid of that connector which is know to have started many a fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply 88GT, I was'nt very clear in the first post. The wire that was frayed had worn through against the frame rail, shorting out. This is just a temporary fix until I do the 3G upgrade.

BTW, thats a GREAT site you have. TONS of useful info for all of us enthusiasts.

Bruce
 

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HI, I drove up the road in my 86 svo and it just died, Im not sure if its TFI or fuse link. Im getting no spark and have attached photos( I hope they sent) of the fuse links which I don't know if they look bad and a large white plug and 2 smaller white plugs that weren't being used. How would i replace the fuse link if they are bad? cut and add a normal fuse? thanks
 

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Hello Kram, it would be best to start a new thread with your issue vs piggybacking onto this one.

If you have access to a multimeter, you can test for power at the coil to see if the fuselink is intact. I do not have my 1986 wiring diagrams in front of me right now (i can get to them later), but I think the fuse link you would be concerned with is a blue 20G link that is normally taped to the harness behind the strut tower on the 1987+ cars. I'll have to reference the 1986 wiring to confirm its the same.

From that fuse link, a Red/light green wire runs to both the coil and the TFI module. You should check for 12V here at the coil and TFI to see if you have power.

Again, i am more familiar with 1987+ wiring so i'll need to check to see if this applies to 1986, so take the above advice with a grain of salt.
 

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A fuseable link is nothin more than a smaller gauge wire that will burn out before the main wiring in the circuit. Determine the gauge of the old link and replace it with a piece of wire the same gauge. That's all you need to do.
 

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HI, I drove up the road in my 86 svo and it just died, Im not sure if its TFI or fuse link.
Here’s the ‘86 SVO wiring diagram.

Test for power at the red/light green wire on the TFI and coil. Good luck
Schematic Font Material property Parallel Engineering
 
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