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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of putting the new fuel system in my car for the spring, and I've got a few questions. It's getting redone with a cell, BG pump, big rails and regluator.

The cell has -8 outlets on it. Can I use -8 feed line and not have to worry about fuel supply problems? The pump is a BG King Sumo EFI pump, which is claimed to support 2K hp. Is -8 large enough to support 650-750 flywheel HP?

Anyone know the minimum thickness that the hatch firewall needs to be? I seemed to have lost the NHRA rulebook...

I am wondering, once I get the feed line up to the engine compartment, how I plumb it into the rails and back to the regulator. I think that it needs to be split before the rails, then after the rails back to one line before the regulator, right?

Or would I run the feed into one fuel rail(at the rear), then connect the two front rails, and have the regulator after the line exits the rear of the other rail? I just want to do it the best way I can.

I've got one of those foot long BG fuel filters, do I put it in front of the pump, or after? Or do I need a second filter?

And yeah, this is getting annoying, but should I use a controller for the pump? The car will not see any street time. I'm also a little confused as to the best way to wire the pump, whether I should hook it to the factory wires, or just use a relay and hook it to the battery.

IF anyone has any pictures, and would be so kind, I'd appreciate it to get some ideas. I might post this in the engine forum too, so please don't jump me for it. And yes, I plan to do a search(after this:D)

Thanks in advance.
 

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that pump has a 8 micron filter built into it so you will only need a 100 micron after pump to protect your injectors. hope you bought the bg regulator because with the purchase of pump and reg they give you a lifetime labor warranty on both with free flow testing. i almost purchased this same pump but instead went with a bosch because i'm not ready to sump tank yet. i still ran -10 from tank to y block in engine bay and split it into -8 lines into the back of each rail, then (2) -8 to reg and a -6 back to tank. i would hook your pump up to a dedicated line to the battery fused with a relay. you will not need a controller to reduce voltage but you may want something to make sure you are getting all the voltage to pump
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unfortunately, I bought an Aeromotive reg...:(

But thanks for the help...:)
 

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I would change the -8 fuel cell fitting for a -10 and run -10 line to the pump. Also. I would recommend that you run -8 (or -10 if your future plans are for big increases in HP) from the pump to a Y block in the engine compartment. -8 from the Y block to the back of the rails and -6 from the other ends of the rails to the regulator. Then -6 from the regulator back to the fuel cell. If it's not a street driven car then you don't need a pump voltage controller. The firewall material needs to be .024" thick if it's steel or .032" thick if aluminum.

I would run the pump directly off the battery but using a relay that gets it's signal from the factory harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks John.

I was planning on running the setup you described, with a -10 to a y-block, then -8s to the rails and -6 return. My dilemma with the fuel cell is this - it's an aluminum one, and the two males on the sump are -8s, and they're welded in(Summit said they were -10s, I guess it was a typo). I was going to run two short -8s to a y block with a -10 outlet to the pump. This would be OK wouldn't it?
 

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fiveoboy01 said:
My dilemma with the fuel cell is this - it's an aluminum one, and the two males on the sump are -8s, and they're welded in(Summit said they were -10s, I guess it was a typo). I was going to run two short -8s to a y block with a -10 outlet to the pump. This would be OK wouldn't it?
Welded in! Ouch, I was thinking about getting that cell sometime in the future but that changes things for me.

Sure the Y block idea will work fine.
 
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