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Just would like to get input on this data on my front tire temps. This is a car driving on the street and has the front end alignment set up just a touch aggressive compared to factory specs. It has been feeling pretty good when I run on curvy back roads. have not autocrossed yet. There are no CC plates. My front end is 1/2* Neg camber on both sides. 2* Caster with 1/16th toe in.
My front tire temps were the same on both sides. inner tread 126* Center 126* outer 122*
Air pressure started at 34psi cold and went up to about 36psi after run.
The real odd thing is that both front tires look a little bit scrubbed on the outer edge. Making it look like I got too much toe in. But it must be just the way I am looking at them. Because judging by the temps and how I set my alignment. The readings do not show any signs of too much toe in.
And my front end is tight with no wore out parts. No movement but It is all stock with rubber bushings.
Thanks for looking this over and giving any input.
Matt
 

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Since pressure only went up 2 lbs I have to think that the car was not pushed very hard compared to an autocross or road course so the data probably doesn't mean much. My pressures go up 8-10 lbs after a track session. Of course I could be wrong.
 

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Also, how were the temps taken? If with a laser from Harbor Freight, they are meaningless as that is just surface temp (if even accurate). You need a proper pyrometer for taking temps and then you need to do it right away after making an auto-x run or road course lap. I can tell you right now that with that little amount of negative camber, as soon as you auto-x the car, you will chunk or destroy the outside of your tires if you are going fast at all. For auto-x'ing, foxbodies typically need -3* OR MORE of negative camber (for radial tires, bias ply slicks need less), all the caster they can get, and a bit of toe out. I.E., you should get C/C plates installed before your first auto-x.

For street driving, with most street tires, I like to start the fronts at 36 psi and the rears at 32 psi. I've just always liked how that felt.
 

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The outer edge scrubbing is because you don't have nearly enough negative camber in it, so when you push it and the body rolls, the outer tire is going into positive camber. For instance, 1 degree of negative camber in compression with 2 degrees of body roll = 1 degree positive camber. This is why hard-core corner-carvers often run 3 degrees or more of negative camber on a strut-suspension foxbody. 1/2 degree negative camber is not a "touch" aggressive, not by a mile. You should be running at least a full degree if not 1.5 or more on the street.

For reference, see this picture. Don't let the angle of the camera distort things, but the bottom line is, body roll has completely eliminated the 2.5 degrees of negative camber I'm running, which turns into even more when the suspension is compressed. And yet...it's pretty much zero camber in that pic. If I were only running 1/2 a degree, that thing would be rolled 2+ degrees positive and chowing the outside edge of the tire.

 
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