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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the weight differance between a Harwood bolt on 3" cowl hood and a stock 5.0 hood? I also have a tubular k member (HAL) and a flaming river r&p (both claim to drop 30lbs). I'm hoping to make up for the added weight of the 351C and the C6 (the engine weighs about 75lbs more than a carb'd 302, don't know how a C6 compares to AOD in weight). The Aluminum intake probably dropped atleast 20lbs. The hood was already on the car when I bought it, so i can't just weigh both to compare. I will also weigh the car when I finish it so I have an actual weight to go by.

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K member

I had a question about the k member you are using. I am in the process of doing the same with my 85 GT. I am putting in a manual rack, I have a glass hood, 2 core aluminum radiator, and have been thinkig about the k-member with the factory a-arms. I have been hearing about tire rubbing and other modifications to the k-member to make it work. Did you have any problems with yours?

Thanks,

jeff

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Discussion Starter #3
Jeff,

The K-member went in really easy. You have to do a little grinding on the stock a-arms to put them on, but nothing major. The HAL/QA1 does move your wheels forward. I have the Ford "C" springs and with only 215/65/15 tires there is only like 1.25" to 1.5" between the tire and the lower front edge of the fenderwell opening. I have no way to be sure but since I am having a lot of clearance issues with the steering rack, the k-member may have moved it's mounting point up. I'm even using the flaming river rack that is suppose to give more clearance at the oil pan.

What engine are you running?

Later,

Patrick
 

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I am running a 302. I have the manual rack on order, and should have it soon. I am running 235/60/15 in the front now, I have been thinking of switching to a 16" wheel.

Jeff
 

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Those figures sound about right. I think I dropped about 28lbs with a tubular K and I really don't remember exactly what the manual rack dropped.
 

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I'm hoping to make up for the added weight of the 351C and the C6
I'm curious to why you selected the C6 for your combo? It is heavier and has more parasitic horsepower loss than a C-4. A good friend of mine runs a 351C in his foxbody and it goes 6.60s @ over 102 mph in the 1/8. He runs a C-4 with a home rebuild, TCI reverse manual valve body and a PTC converter. His c-4 has been very reliable and basically indestructible so far behind the Cleveland.

Don’t know if this helps you any, but thought I would pass on the inflo.

Eddie
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The reason behind the C6 is purly economic: it was free! I got it out of an '87 F250 after an engine swap (351wHO to 6.9L diesel, I got the 351 too). I had driven the truck with the tranny in so I knew it was good. Total cost of transmission $40 for B&M shift improver kit and new filter. I had to buy a converter with any tranny I used so that cost doesn't count. Plus, the C6 will hold up to alot more abuse than a stock C4 (and I have another free spare!). The car is mainly for hard street driving, 4 SOLO II runs per year (Max.) and maybe one trip to the strip. The original plan was for a TCI C4 untill this deal came along. I do have a C4 in the shed but it needs rebuilt. I am not a tranny guy, so this route was cheaper/easier.
 

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The reason behind the C6 is purly economic: it was free!
You can't beat free.

I am not a tranny guy, so this route was cheaper/easier.
I'm also a big fan of cheaper and easier.
 
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