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Discussion Starter #1
363 SBF with custom JE pistons. 10.6:1 fresh competition valve grind and new valve springs. 280# seat pressure, 700# open pressure.
1058364
1058365
1058366
1058367
 
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:eek:
 
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2nd pic, what's gong on in cylinder #5? Looks like some scratches or is that just the photo? Also tell me about the belt drive, looks nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2nd pic, what's gong on in cylinder #5? Looks like some scratches or is that just the photo? Also tell me about the belt drive, looks nice!
The "scratches" are purely cosmetic. It happens when you pull the piston rings out of the cylinder to measure ring end gap.
I am using a Jesel belt drive. The main advantage of the belt drive is that it dampens vibrations/harmonics from the rotating assembly from getting up into the valvetrain, unlike a chain and gear set up. This provides a lot more stability and accuracy in the valve train at high rpm, which helps make more HP. One other very positive result is that the valve springs last a lot longer. The spring package in this engine cost over $600. This does not include retainers and keepers.
The old valve springs lasted over 4 years and 8k+ rpm operation. When the old springs were tested, there were only 3 of them that were down from spec, and they were only down 25 lbs. The retainers still looked like new with no wear marks on the retainer from the springs.
One other advantage is that the belt drive allows you to change cam timing without removing anything.
The main down side to the belt drive is initial cost. It was around $1,100. retail. But with springs costing over $600, the belt drive pays for itself over time.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
1058448


So I am as far as I can go at this point. I am waiting on the solid roller lifters to show up, then I can put on the heads.
 
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nice setup!
 
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What class are u running? U going to run supercharger?
Small tire stuff when I can. Around here it is mostly ET drags, no heads up stuff. I prefer the heads up small tire classes.
Yes, running a S/C. It is a Kenne Bell twin screw, with a custom air/water I/C. Before this re-fresh, car has been 5.33 @ 133+ in the 1/8 on the 26X8.5 Hoosier. Now the car has a 275 Drag Radial, new rear gear, (from 4.10:1 to 4.30:1) and engine has gone from 4.090 bore to a 4.125 bore and a step up in compression from 9.2:1 to 10.6:1
I am hoping for a fairly decent bump in power. Also switching from "normal" E-85 (100 octane) to a "R" blend E-85 that is 117 Octane.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Drive it on the street? Nah, not for a few years now Lol.


1058472
 
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I managed a 1.26 last year, but never really got it sorted out. I had switched from a 26X8.5 Hoosier to a M/T 275 DR and was also fighting a engine that was not happy. I expect at least a 1.20 or better 60' this year with the fresh combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
1058521


A little clean up on the lower intake manifold. The 4 on the right are done, the 4 on the left are as cast. I don't know if it will will help, but it cant hurt.
 

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Looking good man.
 
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Well, the engine is back out of the car. I put the heads on, then screwed in all of the ARP studs...except one. The drivers side rear lower stud would only go in half way. I tried lubing the threads, no go. Removed all of the studs, removed the head, removed the head gasket and checked the threads, and they are totally F'up. I chased them with a tap, and now the stud goes all the way in, but it wobbles around. Not good. Talked to the machine shop and basically in so many words was told that "**** happens". They did offer to heli-coil it for me. Big whoop. I have to pull the engine to take it to them to fix. I asked him how it could leave their shop with it like that and was told he did not know. That is not very comforting. SMH Now I wonder what else they "forgot"
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That sucks sorry to hear it. Are u going to put stand pipes in the lifter valley tray. Forgot what u call them.
I don't have any idea what those are or what they do.
 

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WOW, that's AWFUL!

For people reading this, as far as cleaning threads: when "cleaning" threads use a Thread Forming Tap, not a Thread Cutting Tap. If a cutting tap is used it might cut too much material out creating a loose fit. i don't know what type you used but either way it sounds like that threaded hole had huge issues to begin with. I'm just glad it was caught before it was run.

ks
 
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They are called lifter valley stand pipes. They go in the lifter valley to prevent oil dripping on the crank for windage. Talk to the machine shop. Gotta tap the block to fit them I think. I had them on mine so not sure.
 
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