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Discussion Starter #1
I’m looking to put a sunroof back in that was originally a sunroof. I’m going to cut the roof off a donor.
Questions are, what side of the pillar is the roof wiring harness on and where is the connector located? Where is the runoff tube in the pillar and how can I remove that before cutting the roof off?


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Thanks for posting those pictures. Answeres a lot of questions in my own head.

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes!! Thank you so much! Do you think it’s worth pulling all the drain tubes up and out with the roof or cut and install new?
Also, the wiring seriously helps me in where it connects so I can unplug and pull that up as well.



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I have blocked drains and will be replacing them this winter. Quite a few guys have replaced the factory drain lines with clear tubing that can be bought in any hardware store so I wouldnt worry too much about the factory tubes. I'm pretty sure they are brittle and prone to kinking as only one of mine works now.

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Clogged Drain Tubes in the Sun Roof

The factory sunroofs are problem areas for rust or rust through - depending on how well those areas were prepped at the factory and if the drainage tubes are still working properly.

The area below the sunroof (which can only be seen if you remove your headliner) contains the metal outlets for the plastic sunroof drainage tubes. It is common for these outlets to get rust perforation holes before the drainage tube, therefore moisture or water will leak into the interior - usually following the path of least resistance.

Another common issue - the drainage tubes over time will shrink and can/do come off of the outlets to which they are supposed to be attached. Again, this will cause water seepage into the interior.

Clogged drainage tubes can be cleared w/ compressed air sometimes - however, if severely clogged, you will need to get a coat hanger, straighten out the metal, then use this to "plunge" through the drainage tube, pushing whatever debris out of the way or to the bottom or out of the tubes. Do this to all (4) of them.

The last area of concern is where the (4) drainage tubes exit - at the bottom of the vehicle. The (C) Pillar drainage tubes (at the rear) go from the sunroof down into the rear 1/4 and drain at the bottoms of the rear 1/4 rocker area near the inner wheel well. If the bottom of the rocker has become plugged, even with trying to clear the drainage tube from the top down will not clear the path - you will have to clear it from the bottom. Again, these tubes shrink, so if the tube has shrunken from the bottom of where it exits the rocker, you will still have an interior water issue. If the tubes have shrunk, you will need to get new tubes (you can source out new tubes like factory OR you can go to your local auto parts store and purchase the correct length & diameter rubber hosing for replacement tubes) or try to get the existing tube back into it's proper drain hole in the rocker.

Same holds true for the front (A) Pillar drainage tubes. These go from the sunroof down the L & R side A-pillars at the windshield. They are tucked inside of the inner metal & outer metal pillars and exit at or in the L & R kick panels. Again, these are set up so they drain at the bottom of the rockers or vehicle. If they are plugged at the bottom, you will have to unplug them from the bottom and make sure they are situated properly inside the rocker to drain any water properly.

In order to access the rear drainage tubes - removal of the rear interior plastics is necessary. In order to access the front drainage tubes, removal of the kick panels and passenger side EEC is necessary.

If needing to repair any rust damage BELOW the sunroof, you will have to remove the headliner, which includes removing sun visors, L&R A-pillars, L&R headliner trim above door, rear headliner trim piece at rear window, interior map light, L&R front seat belts behind driver/passenger seats and rear interior 1/4 panel plastics.

One more thing - check in the corners of your sunroof (from above the roof line) and make sure that the metal has not become soft - as these areas can be prone to rust perforation or metal fatigue cracks as well, which would also allow water/moisture into the vehicle.
The drainage tubes are also color coded for front & rear – White tubes for the front and a Light Blue tubes for the rear.
 
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