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I will invest in a new gauge it is pretty old looking.. what are some recommendations? I will let you know if I see anything when I get a chance to jack it up.
I would just look into renting one of the fuel pressure testers, no point replacing it if its accurate. You should be able to rent one from local auto part stores like autozone or orileys. If you cant get one, I would look into getting one from harbor freight or amazon. If you already have a gauge on the rail then you already have the adapter you need to connect a pressure test kit.
 

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If I’m not finding a damaged return line I will more than likely be dropping the tank to see what pump I have. There’s too much that I just don’t know about the car… the downside of getting someone else’s project lol all I know is what I see
Make sure to check the whole return path. The most common place for kinks is where the return and supply line loop back up near the front passenger side of the engine. Its possible someone kinked the return line back at the tank, or its pinched due to incorrect routing. Its possible the metal lines that run down the front of the passenger side of the motor are damaged but based on the pics, it looks like there are custom lines. Like you said, you never know what someone else did. If you end up dropping the tank to replace the pump, you should be able to get away with a stock 88/95lph pump. Slightly bigger isnt going to hurt but you really dont want to go significantly bigger than you need with a fuel pump. It minimizes heat transfer into the fuel. A 110 lph would be a good choice or even a 150 but you really dont need anything crazy based on your current setup. If you plan on adding a good amount of power to it soon, a 190 would probably be more than enough unless you plan on making a lot of power (450+)
 
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I agree with checking the fuel lines for kinks.
If the pictures earlier in this thread are of the car in question, those are not stock lines going to the rails and makes me wonder what else was changed.
 
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1995 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Make sure to check the whole return path. The most common place for kinks is where the return and supply line loop back up near the front passenger side of the engine. Its possible someone kinked the return line back at the tank, or its pinched due to incorrect routing. Its possible the metal lines that run down the front of the passenger side of the motor are damaged but based on the pics, it looks like there are custom lines. Like you said, you never know what someone else did. If you end up dropping the tank to replace the pump, you should be able to get away with a stock 88/95lph pump. Slightly bigger isnt going to hurt but you really dont want to go significantly bigger than you need with a fuel pump. It minimizes heat transfer into the fuel. A 110 lph would be a good choice or even a 150 but you really dont need anything crazy based on your current setup. If you plan on adding a good amount of power to it soon, a 190 would probably be more than enough unless you plan on making a lot of power (450+)
So I found a kinked line… but it wasn’t even hooked up. I followed it up front and it was just snipped off..
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the two lines next to it I followed and as it wasn’t the cleanest install/best routing I couldn’t see any kinks. Possible kink on top of tank?? Photo of the kink is right i between tank and rear axle. Followed that to the engine bay and all looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I agree with checking the fuel lines for kinks.
If the pictures earlier in this thread are of the car in question, those are not stock lines going to the rails and makes me wonder what else was changed.
Check to last reply, I just followed the lines and they look fine. Definitely not stock lines they’ve been replaced. I wonder the same, my guess is the car had a blower once upon a time hence the Paxton FPR and the cage I think it was a lot faster at one point and this is the state it ended up in for sale? Wish I could talk to previous owner and learn more about the cars history.
 

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You really need someone local to you that KNOWS foxbodies.
join a Facebook group or something.

Post a vid of the car idling, or doing whatever the problem is.

Triple check all your vacuum tree and engine vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You really need someone local to you that KNOWS foxbodies.
join a Facebook group or something.

Post a vid of the car idling, or doing whatever the problem is.

Triple check all your vacuum tree and engine vacuum lines.
I have went through vacuum lines all is in tact

Not near as knowledgeable as a lot of you guys on here but I’m not brand new to the mustang world this is my 6th mustang. I’m 24. my 95 i put together myself nothing fancy just a carb 302, I am confident I will find the problem just will take some work I figured I’d come here first and see what I could learn from the people who know these cars best. I would be much more familiar with the car if it were completely stock or near. I am going to double check my gauge is reading accurate and my next step will be to drop the tank and see what pump I have/inspect return line further. From what I have read on these forums idle surge can be from running too rich. I would like to solve the high fuel pressure issue and see where I’m at after that. Because outside of the funky idle surge once warm the car runs great
 

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I would build new aluminim lines to replace those hacked up stock lines and flare the ends to adapt to an fittings so you can use Teflon lines to the tank and to the rail. You can do a flow test to determine the pump size without pulling the tank. You can jumper the fuel pump at the diagnostic port and run the supply into a fuel can for 1 or 2 minute(s), measure the fluid amount and then do some math to get your flow numbers.

Example:
340lph flows ~90 gph which is 1.5 gpm.
255lph flows ~67 gph which is 1.1 gpm
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I would build new aluminim lines to replace those hacked up stock lines and flare the ends to adapt to an fittings so you can use Teflon lines to the tank and to the rail. You can do a flow test to determine the pump size without pulling the tank. You can jumper the fuel pump at the diagnostic port and run the supply into a fuel can for 1 or 2 minute(s), measure the fluid amount and then do some math to get your flow numbers.

Example:
340lph flows ~90 gph which is 1.5 gpm.
255lph flows ~67 gph which is 1.1 gpm
They aren’t stock lines actually they ran new lines and left the original in place lol but was not the best install I definitely would like to run new ones cleaner.
 

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They aren’t stock lines actually they ran new lines and left the original in place lol but was not the best install I definitely would like to run new ones cleaner.
You could go back to the stock lines for ease. They are good up to about 500hp. There are adapters to connect the stock lines and rails using an fittings if you're missing the connections. I have the metal lines that run from the rails down the front of the motor if you're interested in them. If not, new aluminim lines would be the easiest and cheapest way to do it but it's still pretty expensive to do.
 

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Looks like there is vacuum lines hooked up to the EGR spacer. Those nipples should just be capped off with rubber caps. Those are coolant line ports because the EGR spacer had coolant circulating through them from the factory. Wherever those vacuum lines run to need to re-route them to the upper intake because that is not a vacuum source there. Also see that the EGR sensor has been relocated to the firewall and the BAP sensor has been relocated probably because of the strut tower brace. Are the thermactors still located on the back of the passenger side strut tower? The fuel line snipped off inside the passenger side fender well is the gas tank breather tube and should be connected to the charcoal canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
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That vacuum line runs to the egr sensor when I cap it do I cap the other end of the sensor too?? Or run the line from the upper intake to sensor? I have a capped line on upper intake should I run it to that?
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This is the only line I can connect to on upper intake it is capped as of now
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Looks like there is vacuum lines hooked up to the EGR spacer. Those nipples should just be capped off with rubber caps. Those are coolant line ports because the EGR spacer had coolant circulating through them from the factory. Wherever those vacuum lines run to need to re-route them to the upper intake because that is not a vacuum source there. Also see that the EGR sensor has been relocated to the firewall and the BAP sensor has been relocated probably because of the strut tower brace. Are the thermactors still located on the back of the passenger side strut tower? The fuel line snipped off inside the passenger side fender well is the gas tank breather tube and should be connected to the charcoal canister.
Sorry meant to reply to you ^^^
 

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Also from the looks of the EGR spacer gasket and the throttle body gasket there is an alignment issue or something going on with those gaskets and possibly a vacuum leak there. I'd replace those two gaskets.
 

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So I found a kinked line… but it wasn’t even hooked up. I followed it up front and it was just snipped off..

the two lines next to it I followed and as it wasn’t the cleanest install/best routing I couldn’t see any kinks. Possible kink on top of tank?? Photo of the kink is right i between tank and rear axle. Followed that to the engine bay and all looks good.
That plastic line is the EVAP purge line that runs from the purge valve on top of the tank to the charcoal canister on the pass front frame
 

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Actually the gas tank breather vapor valve is on top of the gas tank. Then the plastic line from that valve runs under the passenger side of unibody up to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The evap purge valve is under the hood on the front of the passenger side of engine usually located behind the alternator coming from a rubber vacuum hose off the front of the intake then connects to the charcoal canister as well.
 

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Side note. Be cautious with aluminum tube. It will get brittle with vibrations/stress over time. Definitely isolate from chassis mounts with rubber etc to help as much as possible.
 
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Where in the fuel line is the fuel pressure gauge you are reading (is it accurate)?

Have you done a base idle reset?
 
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