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1983 Ford Fox Body Mustang GLX Convertible
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For my car, 1983 Mustang Convertible, I´ve been wanting to weld in a roll cage/roll bar. I´ve been looking at 6 point and 4 point roll bars for foxbodys. I am having trouble with the rear seat and working around the convertible top. I thought about whether I should seat delete and run tubes into the back of the seat or find a new connection for the roll bar to fit around the seat and convertible top. If I have a seat I want the rear seat to be able to at least fit someone back there, If seat is useless I won't bother fighting it in. I don't want to mess with any of the convertible top. I don't have power windows so if I can´t run the two rear tubes tight on the sides of the seat, window needs clearance to crank. I´m sure I can figure this out at some point but I wanna ask out now before I start. I haven't made any tubes or purchased any kits so if you have deals or suggestions please reply with them.

Thank You, don't be shy and reply.
 

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If you were bolting in a 4-point bar, then it can be removed so passengers can SAFELY use the rear seat. Since you want to weld one in, forget rear seat passengers - too much metal to hit heads.

If you want to compete with the car in a racing environment, you need to review the rules for roll-bar tube dimensions and mounting. Verts require a bit more than a coupe. For my 86 Vert, I had a custom one built to SCCA/NASA open track rules. It's a bolt in but I never took it out so it's always in there.

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I had a bolt-in Maximum Motorsports 6-point rollbar in my '89 GT. It came with swing-out removeable door bars, but we decided to weld the door bars to the main hoop (which was a mistake, but I digress...).

MM's setup welds a reinforcement plate to the bulkhead behind the rear seat, and then the rear legs of the rollbar bolt to those plates. Doing it that way means there's no impact on the operation of the convertible top. Here's an ancient pic from the install about 20 years ago:


Here's the main hoop installed, without the door bars in place:


Here the door bars have been welded in. This photo is lit better, so you can maybe see a bit more of the details:


The guy installing it for me also welded in a diagonal in the main hoop, so you can see that in this final pic. This pic should also give you a pretty good idea of how much clearance there is for operating the quarter windows. Mine are power, so I never had to worry about reaching back there to crank them.
 

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1983 Ford Fox Body Mustang GLX Convertible
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Post pic of what u are trying to do? I have mine with swing outs and can take out the cross bar so I can use the back seats. Are u doing this for show or go,?

Like the covering of the roll bar. Good job.
I wasn't planning on racing so I´ll say the roll bar will be for show. I still want it safe and functional because there is no reason not to have a safe roll bar. I may take the car drag racing later on, the car will stay under 10s. I was looking into swing outs and the removable cross bar and might use them, what Maximum motorsports sells. I really like the swing out six point roll cage from MM, Thank you for the idea.
 

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Honestly, no point in doing a roll bar unless it meets some degree of safety, in particular the footers. We've seen roll bars punch right through the floors if not footed correctly. The fabricator that built mine created either 4x4x1 or 4x6x1 mounting boxes and welded those to the floors. Inside the boxes, he installed captured nuts for the fasteners. I have some pics somewhere to show what he did. I'll try to find them. Here you go.
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Ok cool. For drag racing u need to go slower then 10.99. Also need 5 point i would do a 6 point. A roll bar is not certified a roll cage is. Also u will need a 5 point harness (seat belt).
Got mine installed by a shop. They did an ok job. Would I trust my life to it no..
If I was to do it again use 1/8 plate on top and bottom where the bar mounts or attached to the subframe so it will not rip out. Put outriggers from the main hoop to the subframe.
The back brace I have bolts holding mine on. And swing outs I have clevis pins.
 

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'90 Windveil Blue LX (Dart Turbo T56)
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Honestly, no point in doing a roll bar unless it meets some degree of safety, in particular the footers. We've seen roll bars punch right through the floors if not footed correctly. The fabricator that built mine created either 4x4x1 or 4x6x1 mounting boxes and welded those to the floors. Inside the boxes, he installed captured nuts for the fasteners. I have some pics somewhere to show what he did. I'll try to find them. Here you go.
View attachment 1079803 View attachment 1079804 View attachment 1079805
couldn't agree more!
my 8-point roll bar is part of the through-the-floor sub-frame connectors that was done by a local shop.
 
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