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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
SOLD!!!

These parts were installed on my '89 GT back in 2002 and were just recently swapped out for MM parts. I don't have my maintenance logs handy (they're with the car, which is at a shop for dyno tuning), so I'm not sure exactly on the mileage, but I would guess it's somewhere in the 5000-10,000 mile range - almost certainly the low end of that, as the car just hasn't been driven a whole lot for years now. The mileage includes a few auto-x events (I think 2 on street tires, 1 on R-compounds), plus two open track events (1 on tiny Hawaii Raceway Park, 1 at Summit Point's Shenandoah Circuit, both on R-compounds).

K-member is the "standard" Fox part set up for a Windsor motor. The control arms are Fox length. Ball joints feel good and tight, control arms move freely on the rod ends. Obviously you can see in the pic that the setup is pretty well coated in rust, but it's just surface rust as far as I can tell.











When I bought them, the FCAs were $700, and the K-member was $580. For some reason, I got a $100 discount on the control arms. I'm honestly not sure what to ask for the setup, so I'll start with $750 and I can adjust if you kids tell me I'm out to lunch. I'm also willing to split them - figure a 50/50 split, since I paid about the same for them new.

Parts are located in Alexandria, VA (22310). I would prefer local pickup or meeting somewhere within a couple hours, as I imagine shipping won't be cheap (particularly for the bulky K-member).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, not sure how I managed to leave that off! Updated original post - parts (and I) are in Northern Virginia.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Spent some quality time in the driveway taking advantage of the unseasonably warm weather today and cleaned the parts of most of the rust. I say "most of" because the K-member in particular has some nooks and crannies that I couldn't easily get into. I also put a couple coats of paint on the control arms (Rustoleum self-etching primer + Rustoleum hammered silver paint). I didn't bother trying to paint the K-member, as its size and those nooks and crannies almost certainly mean it would've come out rather crappy.

Here's one shot of the control arms:


And then some of the cleaned up K-member:








Obviously, it's not to bare metal - I just don't have the time or equipment for that. But I got the vast majority of the rust off just to show that there's no structural issues.

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Still available. Make me a reasonable offer. :)
 

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what was your reasoning for swapping to MM stuff? Just curious
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Honestly, I probably didn't need to do it, but after all these years I suddenly had the urge for the front to match the rear. Way back when I did the MM TA/PHB, MM hadn't released their front suspension stuff yet, so I went with the Griggs front end. I know there have been threads here and/or on c-c.com about how the roll centers of the different setups aren't the same, and mixing the brands wouldn't result in the optimum setup, blah blah. I don't think I'm a good enough driver, particularly in this car, to tell the difference, but that thought has always been in the back of my head.

So, I had a variety of work I wanted done to the car, and there's a shop local to me that is a MM dealer, so I figured I'd have them swap the front end stuff to MM.

I've never been one to spend money in logical ways when it comes to my cars. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
$600 and you've got a deal. :)
 
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