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I'd be curious to see what the 5-blade focus fan blade would do for CFM. No idea how the pitch compares to the others. Might be worthwhile to eliminate all the variables and test out all 3 blades on one of the single contour (or focus) motors and just switch the blade. That would eliminate differences from the shroud, and differences in the motors (if they exist) by keeping as many variables the same. It does appear that the focus and contour motors are similar, but in looking them up they have different part numbers. Different motor specs? or something like a motor plug in a different orientation.

Too bad you can't locate the blades separately. You could swap two of the 11-blade units onto the contour fan if it showed an increase of X cfm. It looked like going from contour to focus 11-blade was a 500 cfm jump roughly on one fan.
So Mike, I figured I would give the test a round 2.

First video shows fan blade and fan motor details, showing the differences and what was needed to fit a Focus fan blade to a Contour motor. I did not measure the motor mounts, but looking at both, I think the Focus motors could be installed in the Contour shroud. Plugs are the same so wiring harness can be kept.


Second video is the actual testing showing Amps and CFM using the same motor and shroud for all three tests.


So final result -
  • Contour 6 blade fan moved about 3000 CFM
  • Focus 11 blade fan moved about 3200 CFM (was rubbing a slight amount, possibly could move a little more)
  • Focus 5 blade fan moved about 2300 CFM (a lot of rubbing, could get a couple hundred more CFM if clearanced better)
 

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Interesting.

So, assuming one can pick up two junkyard focus fans pretty cheap, in theory they might be able to swap 2 motors and the 2 11-blade fans over and pick up 400ish CFM, at the cost of maybe 1-2 amps per motor.

of course you have to factor in less cfm when pulling through a 3-core radiator and an ac condenser. Maybe a bit more load.

unknown if that’s worth it.
 

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No. It was a Four Seasons. You continue to generalize that all non-OEM Contour fans don't work yet there's an overwhelming majority using them with great success. Your reasoning is that the Contour fan is designed for a 200hp car. How do you explain so many folks using MarkIII fans and 3.8 Taurus fans then? They were no powerhouses.

The TN heat is nothing compared to AZ. When you've driven in 120* weather in the city with AC running; let me know. My car had a 347 by the way.
Ive tried to indicate it was the fan “I” bought in “my application” and that “I” would not go this route again but to pay for a much more expensive fan of prior known quality.

Please forgive me if I wasn’t explaining my rationale clearly enough. You all do what you find works well and kudos if you find better cheaper solutions.

Further I believe I indicated I had FLA heat experience under that belt as well. If not yes it was so. Perhaps i am incorrectly sensing some frustration in a tone here? I hope so.
 

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Interesting.

So, assuming one can pick up two junkyard focus fans pretty cheap, in theory they might be able to swap 2 motors and the 2 11-blade fans over and pick up 400ish CFM, at the cost of maybe 1-2 amps per motor.

of course you have to factor in less cfm when pulling through a 3-core radiator and an ac condenser. Maybe a bit more load.

unknown if that’s worth it.
When riding the razors ass edge of overheating that 400cfm could be worth it.
 

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So Mike, I figured I would give the test a round 2.

First video shows fan blade and fan motor details, showing the differences and what was needed to fit a Focus fan blade to a Contour motor. I did not measure the motor mounts, but looking at both, I think the Focus motors could be installed in the Contour shroud. Plugs are the same so wiring harness can be kept.


Second video is the actual testing showing Amps and CFM using the same motor and shroud for all three tests.


So final result -
  • Contour 6 blade fan moved about 3000 CFM
  • Focus 11 blade fan moved about 3200 CFM (was rubbing a slight amount, possibly could move a little more)
  • Focus 5 blade fan moved about 2300 CFM (a lot of rubbing, could get a couple hundred more CFM if clearanced better)
Thanks for doing this experiment and posting it.
 

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I believe that is part of the issue with my contour fan set up is that there's about a 3-4 gap on the bottom of fans that is not getting airflow through it at idle. The Griffin radiator I have works great at cruise, maybe too good, runs about 170 in 85-90 degree temps, but will run up to 200 at idle if it sits awhile, or in town; so that kind of indicates fan capacity isn't optimal.
I haven't charged A/C yet, kind of a new build still, but imagine it'll only get hotter with A/C condensor trying to shed heat too.

One thing I noticed in this thread some need to realize is the thermostat isn't fully open until 25 past initial opening temp, so a 195 thermostat won't be full open until 220.

every inch of the radiator is covered.

View attachment 1087353
 

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I always check mine on the stove top with a kitchen thermometer to verify they open and fully (!!!) before I install them Or even re-install them.

A Lesson learned the hard way.
 

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I believe that is part of the issue with my contour fan set up is that there's about a 3-4 gap on the bottom of fans that is not getting airflow through it at idle. The Griffin radiator I have works great at cruise, maybe too good, runs about 170 in 85-90 degree temps, but will run up to 200 at idle if it sits awhile, or in town; so that kind of indicates fan capacity isn't optimal.
I haven't charged A/C yet, kind of a new build still, but imagine it'll only get hotter with A/C condensor trying to shed heat too.

One thing I noticed in this thread some need to realize is the thermostat isn't fully open until 25 past initial opening temp, so a 195 thermostat won't be full open until 220.
200° isn't hot. I've ran the Contour fans in 115 plus degrees weather with the A/C on in traffic. My coolant temps were 210° or there abouts. The factory sets the low speed fan to come on around 220° on a 94-95 gt.
I also run a 195° t-stat. It's a high flow Robert Shaw t-stat. I also run a high volume water pump. Your fan is just fine. ;)
 

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200° isn't hot. I've ran the Contour fans in 115 plus degrees weather with the A/C on in traffic. My coolant temps were 210° or there abouts. The factory sets the low speed fan to come on around 220° on a 94-95 gt.
I also run a 195° t-stat. It's a high flow Robert Shaw t-stat. I also run a high volume water pump. Your fan is just fine. ;)
I know, just illustrates how well the rad works at speed.
I've got the high flow water pump, and T-stat as well. It's November so what's in the car will ride through our Florida winter, once I get the A/C charged I'll see how it is next summer.

I know about the SN fans too, tuned my son's 94 cobra, and the other's 94GT, set both fans to come on much sooner. Those cars will typically run 215 or so in the heat with A/C on.
 

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I know, just illustrates how well the rad works at speed.
I've got the high flow water pump, and T-stat as well. It's November so what's in the car will ride through our Florida winter, once I get the A/C charged I'll see how it is next summer.

I know about the SN fans too, tuned my son's 94 cobra, and the other's 94GT, set both fans to come on much sooner. Those cars will typically run 215 or so in the heat with A/C on.
Yup...I do the same thing and have the fans come on earlier. You should be good to go in the summer with A/C. Even the factory SN fan doesn't cover the whole radiator core.
I'm actually experimenting with a stock replacement fan/radiator on my '94. I kept the high flow water pump and t-stat. I have a big intercooler out front of the condenser now so my theory is that the thinner stock radiator will allow more airflow. It's worked well without the A/C hooked up. Next summer will be the test. Also; I can put a shop rag across the front of the intercooler and the factory replacement fan will hold the rag in place. It surprised the heck out of me.
 
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Yup...I do the same thing and have the fans come on earlier. You should be good to go in the summer with A/C. Even the factory SN fan doesn't cover the whole radiator core.
I'm actually experimenting with a stock replacement fan/radiator on my '94. I kept the high flow water pump and t-stat. I have a big intercooler out front of the condenser now so my theory is that the thinner stock radiator will allow more airflow. It's worked well without the A/C hooked up. Next summer will be the test. Also; I can put a shop rag across the front of the intercooler and the factory replacement fan will hold the rag in place. It surprised the heck out of me.
Everyone I know that has an aftermarket stock replacement radiator in an SN car has said it runs hotter than the stocker did.
 

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Everyone I know that has an aftermarket stock replacement radiator in an SN car has said it runs hotter than the stocker did.
So far; the coolant temps have been inline with the aftermarket 2 row radiator that I had in the '95 with Contour fans. I'm very surprised. this current '94 that I'm tinkering with is my first boosted build. I thought for sure that the intercooler would cause my car to overheat or at least run hotter than normal. I did three 13psi pulls in a row one day and while the intake air temps rose; the coolant temps remained around 210*. That was on a 105* morning this past summer. I run 100% water and one bottle of Water Wetter.
 
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