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I recall seeing a few OEM fans with built in pressure relief flaps. I want to say they were Volvo XC90 fans, which were pretty big. I’ll have to dig around to recall what I was looking at.


btw, with the LMR brackets, the contour fan is now 19 1/4” tall and 24 3/8” wide. Fits a stock replacement radiator nicely.
 

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The MKC fan looks very very close to the dimensions I need and has reliefs. It’s about 26.5” and 18.5”. I could easily trim down one side a hair where it’ll sit against the tank. Might try to track one down at a friends wrecking yard.
 

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The other issue with the contour fan many haven't touched is it's lack of pressure release flaps for when above 30-35mph.
If the opening for the fans themselves is large enough, why would you need flaps? The air can travel through the fan openings.

Different motor specs? or something like a motor plug in a different orientation.
Yes, the Focus motor has the plug in a different location. If the two fan motors were side by side out of the shroud, the Focus motor would have its plug 3/4"-1" higher (fan blades on the ground), it is slightly offset up.

The only concern I have about the test is one fan was drawing from the battery vs two.
I don't think it would affect CFM on the Focus fan, it simply would have the fan run longer with less voltage drop. The battery has been sitting around for a while and wasn't the strongest. You can clearly see in the tests the voltage dropped faster on the Contour fan because both fans were running. The CFM dropped with voltage. The single Focus fan simply ran at higher voltage longer.

If I remember correctly, if you run the power feed through the thermoresistor for low speed, the voltage going to the motor was about 8V.

I may have to try that test of swapping all 3 blade types to the same motor in a particular shroud (just to hold it). Give me a little bit.

Recently I picked up the motors only out of an OEM Contour fan to keep as spares. Hit them with power and watch them jump if they are loose on the ground. I would be afraid of bodily injury to have a motor with blade not mounted in a shroud and powering it up.
 

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If the opening for the fans themselves is large enough, why would you need flaps? The air can travel through the fan openings.
I watched video from a friends car with a go pro on a Derale setup and after 40mph even with the fans on the flaps started to open and let air through.
 

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I watched video from a friends car with a go pro on a Derale setup and after 40mph even with the fans on the flaps started to open and let air through.
But what fan was it? Single or dual fan?
 

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I would imagine the need for pressure reliefs depends on the size of the radiator in relation to the size of the fan opening. In your case with a larger radiator I could definitely see it being necessary. A stockish radiator and maybe a fan that doesn’t fully cover the entire surface may not need it.

would be interesting to mount a pressure transducer inside the shroud and see how the pressure changes as you go faster. I have my fans set to shut off at 40mph, but I’d be curious to see at what point, with the fans on, the pressure inside the shroud goes from negative to positive. I don’t think it’s a one-size-fits-all answer for that.
 

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Well think of it this way most open track cars don't even have fans, and if they do, it's a small 10-12 single just to barely keep it cool idling.
 

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Agreed. My fans NEVER come on when I am moving above 30 mph too. The fans are only for slow driving, idling, stop and go and potentially high ambient temperatures while moving (when I put the A/C on as well).
 
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  • ordered and installed a "heavy duty" fan clutch (Hayden 2733 vs. OEM std duty 2723), at the same time added 1/2" spacer to put fan just protruding from edge of shroud, closer where it belongs (weird issue with available replacement fans.)


Thanks for the tip on the Hayden 2733. I replaced my Ford Service/Motorcraft fan clutch, which I put on the car back in 2000, with the Hayden 2733 today . We'll see if there are any changes. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
I think I'm going to pull the trigger and get a Contour Fan from Rock Auto (More Information for FOUR SEASONS 75282 (rockauto.com) ), the side deflectors from LMR, and this controller DC-0444 (Davies Craig DC-0444 Davies Craig Digital Thermatic Fan Switch Kits | Summit Racing). I know this seems like I'm throwing money at the problem, but while the new side deflectors alone will probably help, I'm tired of being worried about being stuck in traffic. Motor is a fresh 302 with GT-40P heads, Lunati cam, intake/injector upgrade, 12 degrees BTDC, stock EEC and an AOD. Cooling system is all new and clean. My daily Camry can take it with the A/C on, so my mustang should be able to do the same.
I just wanted to follow up and close the loop on my above combo. I finally got everything wired up and installed to my liking and have zero complaints. We're in the middle of nasty heatwave with 31 days straight at 100 degrees or higher. I've run the car with A/C on in stop and go traffic and the Four Season Contour fans keep my combo right at 190 degrees, or cooler.
 

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I just wanted to follow up and close the loop on my above combo. I finally got everything wired up and installed to my liking and have zero complaints. We're in the middle of nasty heatwave with 31 days straight at 100 degrees or higher. I've run the car with A/C on in stop and go traffic and the Four Season Contour fans keep my combo right at 190 degrees, or cooler.
Glad you got it sorted out.
What controller did you use?
OR did you wire up a simple on or off relay setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·

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That's a pretty reasonable price for that module. Good find.
 
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That controller is cool as hell. And great price.
My black magic fan has been working great so far. It pulls a ton of air and along with the Meziere it really keeps things cool
 

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If memory serves me right you can trim 3/4" off the Mark VIII shroud which is what I did. I did this on the Coupe with the 302 based motor and on the TBird with a 351 based motor. TBird has a universal Griffin radiator in it which is thicker than the Fluidyne radiator in the Coupe and everything clears. Both cars have tubular K-members with the motors set in the stock location.

Another nice thing about the Mark VIII fans is you can replace the motor (VDO P/N PM9032 ) for about $60 (RockAuto). Remove the original rivits, install new motor, attach to shroud with SS machine screws, flat washers, and nylock nuts. Did this on the Coupe about 5 years or so ago and zero issues.
 
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