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Similar story to D Brune. Lived in Jacksonville FLA running at the time a 350HP convertible with AC. Griffin 2 row 1.25” each radiator. Engine oil cooler built into one tank not tranny cooler. 180F high flow thermostat, edelbrock high flow water pump and SPAL dual Efan. Ran great freezing me out never over 185F on dash.

Moved to TN built another car with 450hp same radiator etc but with Parts Geek Contour fan “supposedly” as good as SPAL. No way it’s as good. Cheap China knockoff maybe. $99 fan can’t compete with a $500 SPAL fan. you get what you pay for. I got 20yrs outta my SPAL, four years on this Contiur and it goes in the trash as soon as funds allow another SPAL. I have trouble holding 210F in 100F heat in TN with AC on With Contour.
 

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I know. I was just rambling to the crowd.
10-4. Ramble on further please about the 210F being factory desired. I’ve heard that before but have never seen documentation on it and fine it hard to convince myself on with the factory gauge in the Fox mustang with 180F in the middle of the temp range displayed.

Now in other cars YES I’d have to agree, a 1990s Camaro, a 2000’s Grand Cherokee and many more I am quite sure have 210F being smack dab in the middle temp spot on.

Its hard for me to visualize the engineers designing the gauge to be run at 5/8-3/4 toward max in our cars.

Ive heard many arguments that cars are more efficient warmer also.

Once mine gets over 210F I start searching for ways to get moving again and get more airflow thru the radiator fast.
 

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My 2020 F150 Coyote runs 195-200 max on the highway in the summer and in town during the summer with the AC running all out is 205 max. I have the digital temps (coolant and trans) displayed on my dash with a Forscan change.
Nice new tech us old fox guys drool over.
 

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I’ve seen this graph posted in many places before, with little context as to how the test was ran.
Context is important no doubt. I run a high flow 180F thermostat but it only holds that in non summer conditions here in TN now with my 450hp motor. DCC controller just can’t make my PartsGeek $99 Contour fan hold temps under 200F when stuck in traffic and ambient is 90F and I am running ac.

My old SPAL dual $500 fan did years ago but that was also 100hp lower but it would take off vertically like a rocket when on the driveway and I hooked 12v to it. I’ll buy and test one again in a few months only sadly maybe when summer is over. Running out of dollars faster than days in the month currently. Thx FEDRES.
 

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It fit my Griffin Mustang designed radiator very well maybe an inch or so of the radiator at the bottom that was not covered by the fan housing. As I recall….
 

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Hope it’s not a cheap china knockoff as my “high flow” Contour fan is. The SPAL waaaay outflows what I am running but I got what I paid for no doubt.

Definitely keep us posted.
 

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That’d sure be nice at that crazy price. We’ll look forward to full data.

ambient temps outside
hp estimate of engine
voltage when running
ac on or not

lots of data needed for us in warm climates to better understand what it’s capable of.

My cheap Contour fan would be fine in more moderate temps up north of TN or with less hp waste heat made.
 

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Could be well worth the try at those prices. Any leads on where to get OEM fan version? I want to know that I know that I know it’s a real and high performance fan Designed to cool that Dodge HP level.
 

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If one of these new can cool a Hellcat it should handle my 450hp fox body. I think I’ll go this way in a few weeks when federal reserve notes permit.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention here. :)
 

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View attachment 1087131
Hmmm maybe not. Looking at reviews on Amazon for the Dorman version these fans apparently have issues with blades coming off and killing radiators.

Anyone know the dimensions of the single?
Yeah I’ll NOT go imitation manufacturer again. It’s OEM or SPAL for me from here on out. I wanna “know that I know…”
 

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10-4. Good current draw info on yours. I’ve not measure my“contour“.

Good point my SN95 130A might have trouble if the Hellcat fans pull too much current. Maybe “not” the highest fan would be fine.

Granted my old Dual Spal was well fed by my 130A unit years ago. I may have to pull up that current draw info to compare.

Ive been using a DCC controller from Brian for about 20 yrs now I think. Super units.

Edit- here’s the SPAL tech data sheet with current draw.
 

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That Dodge forum indicated that some of those guys were looking at installing a “Pursuit” 220A alternator.

<<<< HOLY SMACK >>>>
 

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I never tested mine when I was running a SPAL but my 130A SN95 had no trouble supporting that and my other electrical needs in my 450hp car with full ac etc.
 

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Ouch. An expensive fan taking out a MOAR expensive radiator. No I’ll never go Dorman or PartsGeek etc here. A $500 fan is bad but taking out my $700 radiator (custom Griffin) would be HorRiBLe. The SPAL lasted 20 years thereabouts and only in the last year did the motors slowly not perform well enough. Can’t complain over the life for sure.
 

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I was referring to the aftermarket copy fans (link to the Dodge fan) mentioned above threads that is know to take out rads. But my cheap fan has never performed like an expensive quality fan. I got what a paid for Only.

OEM Dodge fan or SPAL is what I am after now. But this thread opened my eyes to more than SPAL. Thanks guys!!
 
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