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I'm in Phoenix so I feel for you. Here's what it took to cool down my '95 GT with A/C running:
2 row radiator with 1" tubes.
Contour fans
Flowkooler High flow water pump
Robert Shaw High flow T-stat
Higher flowing A/C condenser from a '97 Mustang. (Less fin density)

My son had an '86 GT with A/C. He did the following:
Contour fans with an aftermarket controller
High flow water pump
High flow T-stat
Fluidyne radiator

The largest improvement that we both experienced was the Contour fans. They move some serious air when sitting in traffic. A Fox clutch fan doesn't pull that kind of air at low speeds and when idling. People in other states have no idea how hot it really gets in AZ, NM, Texas and Nevada. I've driven on 120* days. Today's high is 110*.
 
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These are all great suggestions. I checked the air deflectors and one is there, the other is pretty much gone. I do have a "a large 2 core with 1"-1.25" tubes", new high flow water pump, 180 degree quality thermostat, and block that was vatted prior to the rebuild to ensure water passages were clear. The motor is so new I haven't had a chance to drive it on "normal" 80-90 degree days in stop and go traffic, but it behaves on the highway in the 100 degree heat.
Also; is the car properly tuned?
 

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The stock OE style fan clutch should easily cool the car in 100* temps. If that's not cutting it, an E-fan won't either.

I think you should investigate your current setup first.
BS! An E fan draws much more air at idle and slow speeds. Why do you think so many cars have swapped in E fans? I'm not just referring to Mustangs either. Check out Jeep forums. Do a Google search for "Contour fans". I had to install Chrysler 300 Hemi fans on my '66 F100 to keep it cool. It had a 7 blade clutch fan on it. The clutch fan was not cutting it. It wasn't even close. The F100 has A/C as well. Do you think that folks are imagining their cooling issues?
 
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i guess all fox body mustangs were imported to AZ? either that or climate change is a mudda phucka. i agree to a point that e fans flow more but how did foxes cool prior to 94? surely you had ford dealerships thats sold them in AZ.

and the contour fans are amazing. the Lincoln mkz fans have built in hangers and cover 99% of the fox rad. and they fit with a Vortech pulley and 9.5 block.
Nice try. How many of them have been modified whether it be a cam swap or full out stroker? In '96 there was a TSB on all GT's. Guess what was happening straight from Ford? They were overheating. The partial fix; a '97 GT condenser which is a modern design which flows better.

Also; modern E10 fuels raise engine operating temperatures. This is a known fact.

I worked at a high end hotel in Scottsdale in the late 80's to early 90's. Ford, Volvo and GM engineers all stayed there while using vehicle testing grounds throughout the area. I remember just as clear as day; the Fox Mustangs puking coolant in the parking lot of the hotel. The engineers had a semi trailer of parts and were racing to fix the issue along with attempts to swap the AC systems to newer refridgerants. All this before the introduction of oxygenated fuels.

I'll give you another example. My friend has a 1970 Shelby 500 with a 428 Cobra Jet. He has owned the car since '71. It has a period correct restoration and a deluxe Marti Report. He has to retard the timing and keep driving distances to a minimum or the engine will puke coolant. This started with the introduction of ethanol blends. It's no secret here in AZ.

Another example.... Ford sold 60's F100's with a 4 blade mechanical fan. If you lived out west; you often got a Modine Desert Cooler 4 row radiator. If you opted for A/C; your truck received a 5 blade mechanical fan. I challenge you to keep any of these old truck restoration's cool in our summer heat nowadays. We are talking classic trucks and cars with factory equipment.

Just one example:

http://b3cfuel.com/PDF/the_unsung_villian_update.pdf

There's a reason Ron Davis is so popular here.
 
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thanks for the history lesson. thats a lot of information you have and it is appreciated. i know e10 fuel makes your engine run a tad hotter but e85 makes it run much cooler. in the summer i try to stay above e70 here. i was thinking about going to my stock fan setup when the new engine goes in but I think I'll stick to the contour/cold case setup.

can you tell me more about your infinity fan controller? thay sounds really cool
pun intended
I'm a car nut; what can I say? Lol. It really matters where you live. Coming from back East; I remember driving cars without A/C as it was a luxury upgrade. I could never drive in AZ heat without A/C. I like electric fans. A quality unit plain works and works well. Folks need to keep in mind that clutch fans are always slipping and never run at 100%. A clutch fan is always spinning, even when not needed. Newer cars are programmed to shut the electric fan/fans off when the engine is at WOT.
 

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there’s a thread on the Holley EFI tuningforum about it.



It’s an OEM fan controller that comes on many types of vehicles so they can be had cheaply. There’s actually a variety of PWM controllers that can be used. Not just that one.

The issue that prevents many from using them is that it is not standalone. It’s meant to work with a ECU that can generate a PwM signal. right off the bat that excludes a lot of folks from using them.
 

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The stock clutch fan is OEM for a reason. It's simple, cheap, and effective.

E-fans can be an upgrade. Or maybe not. I have them on mine. One car is as stock as it can be and the other is not. E-fan on the not stock one. Other one will remain a clutch fan. I don't have to worry about the controller failing or anything like that.
Where are you located Todd?
 

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Consider the Spal Brushless fans. I purchased mine (dual 300watt fans) in 2013 and I have been using them with great results. I also live in AZ (Litchfield Park) and have no issues with a/c blasting cool air in 114 degree temps. Fan controls are built into the brushless motors. No need for relays or add on controllers.
SPAL is all Ron Davis uses. Great fans. I didn't know that about brushless fans. Very convenient.

I just took a spin in my car and got into some boost. It's currently 100 degrees. The warmest my engine got is 204* without A/C. This is with a 3" thick intercooler up front as well as the A/C condenser. I tried a different approach on this build. I'm running a stock replacement radiator and cooling fan. I'm also running a high flow T-stat and pump and coolant is straight water and a bottle of Water Wetter. Cap is 16lbs. Car can idle all day at around 200*. I also have the hood removed so cooling may get better or worse with the hood on.
 

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It will run cooler without the hood for sure.
I did a bunch of reading on this topic and it seems more folks are inclined to believe the car should run cooler with the hood in place. The reasoning is that without the hood; there is turbulent air in the engine bay and the high and low pressure areas are defeated. I'll find out soon enough.
 

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Similar story to D Brune. Lived in Jacksonville FLA running at the time a 350HP convertible with AC. Griffin 2 row 1.25” each radiator. Engine oil cooler built into one tank not tranny cooler. 180F high flow thermostat, edelbrock high flow water pump and SPAL dual Efan. Ran great freezing me out never over 185F on dash.

Moved to TN built another car with 450hp same radiator etc but with Parts Geek Contour fan “supposedly” as good as SPAL. No way it’s as good. Cheap China knockoff maybe. $99 fan can’t compete with a $500 SPAL fan. you get what you pay for. I got 20yrs outta my SPAL, four years on this Contiur and it goes in the trash as soon as funds allow another SPAL. I have trouble holding 210F in 100F heat in TN with AC on With Contour.
210* isn't hot and it's where the factory likes to see the coolant temp. Engine life is actually increased when running at 210 vs 180. The '94-'95 cars low speed fan does not kick on until 220* from the factory if I remember correctly. The 180* nonsense has carried over from the 60's. The other issue is the accuracy of aftermarket gauges. Not all are created the same. I find that my laptop connected to the car's computer shows an accurate reading via the factory coolant temp sensor.
 

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I never said I relied on factory gauges. In fact I often backup my data with use of IR measuring guns when checking specific areas if my engine and cooling system.
I know. I was just rambling to the crowd.
 

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10-4. Ramble on further please about the 210F being factory desired. I’ve heard that before but have never seen documentation on it and fine it hard to convince myself on with the factory gauge in the Fox mustang with 180F in the middle of the temp range displayed.

Now in other cars YES I’d have to agree, a 1990s Camaro, a 2000’s Grand Cherokee and many more I am quite sure have 210F being smack dab in the middle temp spot on.

Its hard for me to visualize the engineers designing the gauge to be run at 5/8-3/4 toward max in our cars.

Ive heard many arguments that cars are more efficient warmer also.

Once mine gets over 210F I start searching for ways to get moving again and get more airflow thru the radiator fast.
Think about it. What temp T-stat did Ford put in Foxes and SN's?
If 200 plus degree coolant temps provide cleaner emissions; what does that say about the combustion process?
My comment about 210* is me referring to your previous reply about your car running at 210*. I'm not saying that our cars are designed to run at exactly 210*.
I also mentioned the temp at which the '94-'95 GT's low fan kicks on.
Does any of this point to Ford Engineers designing these cars to run at 180*?
The info is out there and just a key stroke away. I'm not an engineer by any means but I did stay at a Holiday Inn recently. :D

I wish Indy were here. He could give quite an education on this subject. I too thought my cars had to run the magic 180* or the world would end.
 

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Hope it’s not a cheap china knockoff as my “high flow” Contour fan is. The SPAL waaaay outflows what I am running but I got what I paid for no doubt.

Definitely keep us posted.
I've used the repop Contour fans for years here in Phoenix with no issues. I have another one sitting here new in the box. I use the Four Seasons brand but all brands are probably made at one factory. They have a huge following across many vehicle brands as an upgrade.
 

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You must have gotten an OEM version? My PartsGeek one isn't great for 333ci in TN heat anyway.
No. It was a Four Seasons. You continue to generalize that all non-OEM Contour fans don't work yet there's an overwhelming majority using them with great success. Your reasoning is that the Contour fan is designed for a 200hp car. How do you explain so many folks using MarkIII fans and 3.8 Taurus fans then? They were no powerhouses.

The TN heat is nothing compared to AZ. When you've driven in 120* weather in the city with AC running; let me know. My car had a 347 by the way.
 

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By the way; I practice what I preach. Here's another sitting in inventory should I need it.
My coolant temp hit 220° at 13psi of boost today. Did the world end? No. I drove the car home without issue.
 

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I borrowed an air flow meter from work today and did a couple of air flow tests on Contour and Focus dual fans.


Further to my comment in the video, I do believe you could swap the fan blades from a Focus onto the Contour motors to get more CFM flow from your Contour shroud and motors (Contour shroud better suited for Fox body Mustang than that of a Focus).
View attachment 1087301
Focus fans on top and Contour on the bottom.
Is it me or is the Contour fan test missing?
 

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Here's an odd one to think about. I bought a replacement fan for my '94.
The oem fan has 9 blades. Aftermarket fans have 7 or 8 blades depending on brand. They also turn in the opposite direction. The blade shape/pitch is identical to oem. This new fan can suck a shop fan and hold it to the front mounted intercooler! Now look at 04 Cobra fans or even new make fans. It seems that Ford discovered something with blade density. Less is more?
 
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