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Because I've got a stock block 347 on the stand nearly ready to go in Ive got to ask, I presume this was a 28 oz. imbalance crank? Did you use main studs or bolts? If bolts were they stock stuff or aftermarket? Not sure it would really make any difference, more personal curiosity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes it was 28oz imbalance. It was a straight up Fordstrokers Liberator build. I'm honestly not that sure about what all was used, but I highly doubt they were stock.
 

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Without knowing the full details on the life of the engine, no one can speculate on what caused the failure. For all anyone knows the engine was revved well past 6500 from a missed shift and caused chatter...Not long before the block is going to check out.

Also, just because one guy makes 750whp on his block for 7 years and 856 nitrous passes at the track, doesn't mean the next guy who builds the same thing will have the same results. Any number of things can cause failures, tune, debris, bad luck, satan, oil starvation, or it could have been something in the crank itself that no one could have possibly detected.


Side note, ALOT more than a few of them have split exactly where the pictured one did. I would suspect the block just had a failure and there is nothing anyone could have done. Most likely, just horrible luck on your side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Most likely, just horrible luck on your side
. About 2 months after getting this motor in, my T5 blew third gear, in the exact same spot that my motor blew. So yeah I'd say thats bad luck to blow my motor and tranny in the exact same spot, and now that I think about it, almost exactly 1 year apart.

So I found another engine, a 393 stock block , AFR 185 headed , pre roller block using link bar lifters, forged internals except for Scat cast crank...Only has 1000 miles on it. Cam is kinda small, as well as those heads, I know, but I'm thinking it should be ok, maybe.. Opinions on rolling the dice on it.

Problem or not, is it comes preinstalled with a Capri wrapped around it. IOW I was looking for maybe a car with a nice engine that I could rob. Instead I found an engine in a car I will keep. I can slap my stock motor back in my current car until I can afford the Ford Racing 363 crate motor which I have decided would be a perfect match for it.
 

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Stock bottom end with ~110k miles, AFR heads, Edelbrock intake, etc. etc. Driven hard on the street but never raced with DRs or slicks, rev limiter not bypassed, and made about 300rwhp :

















Lots more pics if anyone wants to look at the album, it is set to public
 

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That looks like the water jacket's been cracked for a while - is that rust?
 
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i think the crank is breaking taking out the block. at least that is what happened to my boys. crank broke in the same spot and block was ok, ended up rebuilding it and had no problems afterwards. this was a stock 302 crank, can't speak for stroker cranks. kinda like what came first the chicken or the egg. just my experience.
 

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I'm also curious if these cranks are failing after the shift on manual transmission cars, where there's the stress on the block torqueing on the mounts vs. an automatic that tends to be a little smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Mine had already been shifted for a good 500 rpm. I'm to old to really bang gears anyway...
 

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Stock blocks are good for one thing.. Beating the living piss out of with a stock rotating assembly.. You may get lucky like myself, or it may #### the bed, but you're not out any money. I would never sink one penny into a Ford 8.2 block.. If you break one, go to the junkyard and get another, but don't build them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yeah, like it pulled from around 4000 to 4500 at around 3/4 throttle, then snap.
 

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I just wanted to say thank you all for the heads up.

I am buying a girdle for the insurance. Its too late to get a better block as the engine is almost done. Its going in a factory five cobra chassis.
 

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Get the Ford forged crankshaft. Its heavier, but you can have it lightened. Same price better quality!
 

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Funny I seen this post again. Was talking to a guy yesterday at the track who was running a Mustang II drag car, he's had it for years, always a Jerico or Liberty (he has both, uses one when the other's broken) stick shift, and tons of different engines from an FE to mostly 8.2 deck stuff. Boss blocks, Dart, etc. So he shows up yesterday, this time with a 324" stock block. Makes first pass runs 6.00/113. Second pass 5.99/113. Ran it all day until he went out on a red light. 5.99-6.00 all day. Leave the line at 7600 on the 2 step, shift at 8600. Solid flat tappet nonetheless. True old school stuff but cool 8600 on a stock block and the car is 2713 race weight, so you can figure the HP level on that. Even he admitted that it was a grenade without a pin. Offset ground stock 302 crank too. Guy owns a machine shop and plays with oddball stuff like that. 383 windsors, 377 windsors, 388 clevelands, etc. There's even a 289 running around with cleveland iron 4V heads on it, I think in a Zephyr, as part of a "poor boy's" class. But that iron block and headed 289 has about $10k in it, and it hauls booty.

I guess some guys can make them live, and some guys can't. I'm in the middle....have had some with lots of power & RPM last a long time, then some with under 400 hp bust the block.
 

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I just wanted to say thank you all for the heads up.

I am buying a girdle for the insurance. Its too late to get a better block as the engine is almost done. Its going in a factory five cobra chassis.
A girdle will do nothing to prevent a block from cracking. Just something to keep in mind.
 
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