Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well im in need of new TPS and IAC, and together they are going to cost me $130 or so, so i figured $110 more and i can get a FMS 65mm t/b for $240 with the electronics.. My question is..
Will a 65mm t/b be enough for a 331 stroker, S-trim 14lbs, Heads/cam/intake? Im really thinking it would be a tad on the small size, and become a restriction.. The thing is, i dont see that FMS makes a 70mm, or 75mm for our cars... or do they?
I want to get this soon, becuase my car isnt running to well without a TPS.. I am going to throw in on the car now, and when the new motor goes in, i will still be able to use this throttle body.
So i want to buy a Throttle body now, that will be good for my future motor set-up..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
I'm using the BBK 65mm TB making the below #'s. I've been told that on a centrifical it doesn't have the same effects like a KB would. I'd say a 65mm TB is sufficient.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
hey good , u are the one that i wanted to respond... Man u have one killer motor set-up. 550 or so RWHP... that is insane!
I was also checking out your combo, and it looks Exactally like what i plan on doing., give or take a few things..
S-Trim 12#'s, Powerpipe, Stock block, 331 stroker kit, 4340 forged crank, 4340 H-Beam rods, forged dished pistons (9:1:0 comp or lower), Moly file fit rings, Canton main girdle, Canton windage tray, Canton 7 qt oil pan, ARP studs throughout, AFR 185's, E-cam, or Comp cam, FMS 1.6 RR's, Holley System Max intake, FMS 65mm TB, BBK AFPR, 42lb injectors, Pro-M 80mm mass air meter, GSS340 intank pump, Walbro 392 inline pump, 1/2" intake spacer, FMS valve covers, and a good tune.
With my aode, and a PI 3000 stall convertor.
With this set-up, 373's, traction, and my 3800lb( or so) car... do u honestly think this is capable of 11 second times? I would guess this would put down close to 500RWHP.. with the auto tranny.
of coarse i dont expect the transmission to last too long with that kind of power... so when i goes i am going with a PA aode tranny, with the PI convertor, as mentioned... Then i would need to do some suspension work more then likely.. LCA's/UCA's, subframes, and maybe drag springs, and shocks/struts..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,394 Posts
I agree with David. If the blower is sucking through the tbody and MAF, then bigger is better and a 65mm would choke it up. If it is blowing though the tbody and or MAF, then 65 or 70 should be fine. Doesn't a 65mm flow like 700CFM or something like that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
poostang

You are right on track although I would change two things. I wouldn't even gamble with a stock block/331/blower setup. You definately will make over 500 at the wheels with a good tune and you are risking your internal parts by keeping the stock block because it will let go eventually. At the least get a B-50 but if I had it all over again I'd get the Dart block. Think of all of the money wrapped up inside your setup. Are you going to trust a stock block to hold that kind of power?

Second, I would get a different cam. The E would probably work for you but I would hate it for you if it caused any surging with our finicky EEC's. The TFS stage 2 pulls extremely strong with this setup and drivability is perfect. Custom would be better but I am 100% satisfied with my off the shelf cam. My HP is more than sufficient for a daily driver for me. 500 at the wheels was my goal.

If you have any other questions let me know. I'm by no means an expert. I just read alot and picked parts that work together.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yea, after looking at diferent peoples sig's in the power adder forum, i see it isnt too hard to make 500+ RWHP with that combo, or ones close to it.. U really think i would be chancing it with the stock block, even if i got the mail girdle? I guess that is getting pretty close to the breaking point, on the stock block... But man $2000, aint cheap for a block. Is the B50, the same thing as an R block? Or what about dart? give me the scoop on blocks, so i atleast have alittle more idea here.. I want somthing that will hold the power without any worries, and somthing that isnt going to break the bank, ya know..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
The only thing different about the B-50 over stock is that the mains are thicker and it's made out of a better alloy. I paid $845 for mine thru Holcomb Motorsports which is local for me. Ford rates this block to handle 650 hp (flywheel).

The R302 block runs around $1600 but is needing work from the machine shop. From what I have heard it requires special cam bearings, needs a few coolant passages plugs for your application. Machine costs running atleast $1,000 from what I have seen others say on this site. It is one awesome block though!

The Dart block runs about $2k but is already machined except for needing a finish hone on the cylinders. This to comes with 4 bolt mains and is one tough block.

Cost wise the Dart would be your best choice between the last two. Either the R302 or Dart would withstand over 1000 hp and definately be the last block you would ever need.

BTW, your girdle on a stock block will only keep your parts together when the block lets go. Good luck.

David
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top