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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First time with an automatic, on street tires, Firehawk Firestone SZ50. 255-50-16

Only had three runs.

Best ET 11.60
Best mph 127.88
Best 60' 1.901

I need a lot more practice, and next time ill bring the good ol M&H Racemasters.

I was running 16* total (safe for 20+psi and pump gas)

Do you think the conical filter that Pro-M sells with their 80mm flows enough, or should i use another one?
 

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A year ago, when I still had a fast YS trimmed car :( , I swapped the stock filter on my 80mm meter for an 8 inch "Power Stack" filter from AFM. I actually got another pound of boost out of it...Can't remember if there were any negligible gains at the track though...sorry. I do remember the car "felt" more responsive on the street though...

FWIW, I was running 10.70's when I was running 127mph...Just to give you a reference point. MY sixty foots were in the low 1.50's though. You get a 1.50 sixty foot, and you'll be in the 10's, IMO... ;)

Good Luck.
 

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rotax said:

Do you have an idea of a safe timing curve for pump gas?
On pump gas running those types of numbers I wouldn't think of running more timing. Pump gas is really s**ty stuff to be running in a fine motor like yours so now that you proved you can do it run some real gas in it and bump the timing up. With good race gas you should be able to run 25 degrees with no sweat.

Don't know how big that filter is but as a rule the bigger the filter the better on a forced induction car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I might go with that tune and M&H's maybe up the 4000rpm timing a little and see how it goes.
There is so many different kind of race fuel out there, what octane rating do you feel would be enough for me?

Unleaded race fuel is what id like to try in the future to keep the L1H1 sensor alive, but i also might try a little leaded gas if i cant get good unleaded.
 

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I would go with straight 110 octane leaded as a minimum. If your only going to run the leaded at the track and then switch back to unleaded then I wouldn't worry about the O2, it will be fine. If you were running the leaded all the time then the O2 would have a much shortened life. Bigger problem with leaded is the cats but I don't suppose you need to worry about that :). Summers told me the wide band O2 would last 25 hrs minimum on a constant diet of leaded. 25 hrs of running time is a pretty long time at the track.
 

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I agree 100% with John about the race gas. I NEVER raced the car without it. I tried Cam2 Blue (Sunoco), VP C-16, and Torco NOS118...On my car, VP was the most O2 friendly, but I ran the best with Torco....

Running 10.70's was with a very conservative tune (for race gas anyway)...Maybe 23* total timing at WOT and full boost....After several trouble free passes, we leaned on it a little harder, running 28* total....In this tune, the car went 10.20's at 133. :)
FWIW, the car was tuned using a PMS with MUCH APPRECIATED help and guidance from Spence Hart, and even some occasional phone help from Rick Anderson as well...

I always ran STRAIGHT race gas at the track, and would top off the tank with unleaded pump gas immediately after getting home from the track....I still went through a total of four sets of O2 sensors....They're much cheaper than pistons and blocks though... ;)
 

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What rpm do you guys shift at? I just swapped my 3.33 pulley to the 3" pulley hoping to get more power lower in the rpm band. I don't plan on shifting over 6000 or so until I can get a real block. I was seeing about 12-13psi at 6300 on the dyno.
 
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