Ford Mustang Forums banner

Finally installed my Pro-M EFI

12K views 89 replies 12 participants last post by  COP TZR 
#1 ·
I bought this kit second hand for my 95 cobra and finally installed it, 6 months later! Talk about being lazy.
I’ve been following and reading up on a lot post that have to do with this system, just trying to learn as much as possible. Chris helped me get it all set up and this morning. I entered a few of the basic information needed to fire the car up. It’s not running right but I’m sure it has to do with not setting my timing and fuel pressure yet. I was really just trying to make sure the system it’s self was working since I didn’t buy it new.
However i have a question, first of many I’m sure. I know on the write ups in the help section Chris really emphasizes to NOT turn of the ignition while the calibration is writing, but when I hit the write button it asked me to “turn off module power”. I wasn’t sure what to do at that point so I went ahead with what it was telling me. I turned off the ignition switch then about a second later it said to “turn on module power” so I turned on the ignition switch and the computer finished writing the calibration then I got a message saying it was completely and successfull. Does anyone know If this is normal? Maybe part of the new version/update after installing the supplemental harness? Thanks
 
#4 ·
The older strategies only had you cycle module power when going from one strategy to another. The newest strategies have you cycle module power every time you write a new calibration even if it is of the same strategy version.
 
#5 ·
I had a chance to play with the car some more this morning. Last week I was having trouble setting base idle, when I would switch to base_idle and hit write the car would turn off. I adjusted the throttle blade to keep the car running at desired idle (900) but once I would switch back to closed_loop it would rev up to 1200rpm and stay there. I tried setting the base idle as low as 700 but I would idle high once I would switch to close_loop. I started checking the car and found 2 dry rotted and cracked vacuum plugs and cracked housing in the IAC. I fixed those problems and went back this morning and did the base idle procedures again, and what do you know it worked lol. So now my TPS, base timing, fuel pressure and idle speed are done.

Then I moved to the final step, setting fuel injector low slope. I am getting a uego_pi correction of roughly %20 on both banks. The good thing is that they are both neck and neck within %2 of each other. I was having to lower my low flow rate as low as my high flow rate (24lbs injectors). I went back into the help section and read up on Chris write up again and he says that the low_flow should never go lower than the high_flow, if it does go lower that is a clear indication of a vacuum leak. So now I have a vacuum leak to chase. But other than that the car starts and idles pretty good, I drove it around the block and noticed the car was having a hard time catching the rpms when I was coming to a stop and would let off the throttle. The write up says that the ECM will take a little bit of driving to adapt after the base idle reset, so I’m hoping that’s what it is.
 
#6 ·
Forgot to mention, i had a message for a update when I open up the pro-m calibration this morning. I went ahead and did that but then It wouldn’t read any variables. I would hit start and nothing would happen. I closed the program, disconnected the laptop and shut the ignition off. When I connected again it worked fine. Anyone have this happen? Is there a specific way to open up the program? Example, connect the laptop, open program then turn ignition on. Or turn ignition on first then open program? Just wondering
 
#7 ·
Before you chase vac leaks, two things....

1) Describe in full detail your pcv system. Do you have any breather caps?
2) Please post a pic of how you have entered all the injector battery voltage offsets. Someone else recently had entered them with strange data at the upper and lower limits which caused a lean condition. If yours isn't correct, I'll show you how to enter it.

If you indeed have a vac leak then that is going to play havoc with your idle when coming to a stop. If not, it's probably just a matter of giving the system more time to learn under driving conditions.

As far as variables, I haven't ever noticed anything funny specifically related to updates. There is no specific order for doing anything as far as I am aware. I've connected both before and after the engine is running.
 
#8 ·
Before you chase vac leaks, two things....

1) Describe in full detail your pcv system. Do you have any breather caps?
2) Please post a pic of how you have entered all the injector battery voltage offsets. Someone else recently had entered them with strange data at the upper and lower limits which caused a lean condition. If yours isn't correct, I'll show you how to enter it.

If you indeed have a vac leak then that is going to play havoc with your idle when coming to a stop. If not, it's probably just a matter of giving the system more time to learn under driving conditions.

As far as variables, I haven't ever noticed anything funny specifically related to updates. There is no specific order for doing anything as far as I am aware. I've connected both before and after the engine is running.
-PCV, I have a hose on the intake pipe right after the MAF going to the passenger side valve cover filler neck. A hose going from the PCV valve on the back of the lower intake to a fitting on the bottom of the upper intake. I pulled the pcv and screen the other day and screen looked new and PCV valve looked to be in good working order.

-Injectors, this is the data I used and how I entered it. The way I entered it might not be correct, the pro-m had more values to fill than what the data sheet provided so once I got to 15v I used the same data for the remaining boxes.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
PCV is good.

R1 and R2 could be messing you up. Change the data to be exactly like this:

R1 - 6 - 3.388
R2 - 8 - 1.755
R3 - 10 - 1.122
R4 - 11 - 0.928
R5 - 12 - 0.781
R6 - 13 - 0.659
R7 - 14 - 0.547
R8 - 15 - 0.462
R9 - 15 - 0.462
R10 - 15 - 0.462
R11 - 15 - 0.462
R12 - 15 - 0.462

Disable the adaptive, clear what has been learned, and then see what kind of corrections you get with the above offsets, HI slope set to 24.90, and low slope set to 26.22. It's important to get the breakpoint correct as well. Use 0.00002219.

I'm assuming these are the blue top injectors for all this.
 
#12 · (Edited)
if you disable the widebands feedback the o2 sensors will pick up what bank the vac leak is. if they both remain the same, close to 14.7ish. its not a vac leak.

disconnect the throttle cable see what happens.
Yes, but if you don't disable closed loop feedback, you could accomplish the same thing by watching which bank has a lot of fuel getting added. And if no fuel gets added to either bank, then it's not a leak.

One bank being off using either method only works if the vac leak is by an intake port. If the front or rear of the manifold is leaking, if the dipstick is leaking, if the oil pan gasket is leaking... all of those would show up on both banks when you run PCV..
 
#15 ·
Yes, but if you don't disable closed loop feedback, you could accomplish the same thing by watching which back has a lot of fuel getting added. And if no fuel gets added to either bank, then it's not a leak.

One bank being off using either method only works if the vac leak is by an intake port. If the front or rear of the manifold is leaking, if the dipstick is leaking, if the oil pan gasket is leaking... all of those would show up on both banks when you run PCV..
but wouldn't the adaptive fuel take over and correct for a vac leak? to my understanding, this happens very quickly.
 
#17 ·
but wouldn't the adaptive fuel take over and correct for a vac leak? to my understanding, this happens very quickly.
If enabled, yes, that is correct. In that case, you'd see one adaptive table skewed to add much more fuel than the other if you have a leak around an intake port.

I've been assuming adaptive controls were turned off during the setup process so that the Uego Correction gauges could be used to dial in the low slope. I read the original post to mean that even with low slope reduced to match high slope, closed loop feedback was still adding 20% more fuel to each bank. That to me suggests either bad data entered somewhere or a general leak into the crankcase. The injector battery voltage offsets were indeed off down low, but to be totally honest, I'm not sure that would have affected things at normal operating voltage. Regardless, it should be corrected. The discovery that the dipstick was unseated is a definite vac leak with a PCV system. I'm fairly confident that we will see those corrections come way down now.

As far as the error, I have never seen that before. What does it say your battery voltage is? It should display it just to the right of where it says Advanced at the top.
 
#24 ·
Partially, but it really depends on what you're calling the "mess." The $150 would get all the injector data entered for you, so there wouldn't be the issue with the battery voltage offsets having been entered incorrectly. The $150 would have done nothing to prevent the high fueling corrections that almost certainly result, at least partly, from the dipstick being out. Any leak of air into the crankcase with a PCV system results in unmetered air entering the combustion chambers and a lean condition. The beauty of this system is that we very easily saw that the system is adding 20% fuel when it shouldn't have had to, so something must have been wrong. The $150 would not prevent this voltage issue. I'm suspicious of a loose connection, but that remains to be proven.
 
#31 ·
I don't think so. I think you'd see low voltage when reading at the battery which isn't happening here.

Aside from the power into the ECU, bad grounds could also be causing an issue. Make sure you have grounded everything exactly as described in the instructions.
 
#33 ·
John do you know where the ECM gets its voltage reading from?

When I installed the supplemental harness I had to solder some wires, I’m going to try and go back and check make sure they didn’t come apart. I know I’m far from good at soldering. As far as ground there was only 1 ground cable going directly to the battery terminal and that was it, no power wires.
 
#36 ·
So the supplemental harness is in play, and you didn't have these problems before its installation? That's good information. If that's the case, the big red flags for me are going to be the new connections related to power. One is the area where the red wire in the supplemental gets spliced in with the red wire on pin 87 of the power relay. The other is going to be the area where the supplemental's black wire gets spliced into the main ground wire that connects to battery negative.

You've got me thinking about battery voltage in general now. If you voltage is dropping way down, that's going to put you into lower regions of the injector battery voltage offset table, which was messed up. I am more hopeful that ever that once this voltage issue is resolved and the correct offset table is uploaded, you are going to be in much better shape.
 
#37 ·
I will check the ground connection at the battery terminal, I used one of those crimp connectors but can’t remember if I also solder it there as well.

I can’t answer that question, I bought the system second hand and then purchased the supplemental harness and wired it in. Then I installed them both together, I never ran the system with the old software. According to previous owner it was working just fine, and like I said it was working fine for me to until 2 weekends ago when I started getting that error. I let the car sit throughout the week since I was working and then this past Friday I made a couple of changes and worked fine at first, later that same day I went back to change the voltage offset to what you recommended and it started doing it again. I will check the soldered connections and report back tonight.
 
#39 · (Edited)
FYI,
Made a log for "PCM power" at idle.
The first graph is at startup.
The second graph, coolant temps are approx. 203 degrees F or 95.1 degrees C.
And the last graph is with the cooling fan #1 is "ON" at 205.4 degrees or 96.4 degrees C.

This log was taken at idle and as you can see voltages will move around some but not the huge differentials you're getting from 14.5 vdc.

Startup
1060524



Second graph, coolant temps are approx. 203 degrees F or 95.1 degrees C
1060525



Last graph is with the cooling fan #1 is "ON" at 205.4 degrees or 96.4 degrees C
1060523


I hope this helps for a comparison at idle.
Michael Plummer
 
#40 ·
FYI,
Made a log for "PCM power" at idle.
The first graph is at startup.
The second graph, coolant temps are approx. 203 degrees F or 95.1 degrees C.
And the last graph is with the cooling fan #1 is "ON" at 205.4 degrees or 96.4 degrees C.

This log was taken at idle and as you can see voltages will move around some but not the huge differentials you're getting from 14.5 vdc.

Startup
View attachment 1060524


Second graph, coolant temps are approx. 203 degrees F or 95.1 degrees C
View attachment 1060525


Last graph is with the cooling fan #1 is "ON" at 205.4 degrees or 96.4 degrees C
View attachment 1060523

I hope this helps for a comparison at idle.
Michael Plummer
Michael I see your voltage also fluctuates but stays in the mid 14v range. On mine the alternator puts out 14.4v while running but on the laptop I never see nothing more than mid 13v. It’s like I’m loosing 1v somewhere in the system.

I been wanting to check the soldering connection where the supplemental and main harness main power join but for I’ve been really busy with this kitchen remodel.

And now I have another problem, for the past 2 days I haven’t been able to find my car keys lol. I think my kids might have gotten a hold of them.
 
#41 ·
Ok, I’ve got somewhat of an update and another issue I have to deal with now. I finally found my keys! So last night I went out there and was messing with the voltage issues, I noticed that the cable going from the battery post to the fuse box wasnt connected very well, I checked it and it did have a small voltage drop across that wire, however I noticed that when I was holding it tight up against the battery terminal the fluctuation in voltage stopped, it was steady but the reading is still lower than what the battery voltage reads in my multimeter. (About .75v lower). While holding the cable I tried to write the calibration with the updated injector voltage offset and the ECM wrote the calibration just fine.

This morning i went back out there to fix that wire, I installed an O terminal end, crimped it, solder it and heat shrink it. Tested it and no more voltage drop across that wire but the fluctuation in voltage is back. I checked the other solder connection where the supplemental harness and main harness connect and it is good, I’m getting the same reading there as I am at the battery post.

While I was messing with that my laptop crashed. It shut down on me then I powered it back on worked for a couple minutes and shut down again. When I powered it up the second time I got an error message saying no hard drive has been installed so I guess it’s time for a new laptop. This one is about 8yrs old and didn’t get used a whole lot, I figured it’s better to get a new one that try and fix this one. What laptop are you guys using or recommend? I don’t need nothing fancy as it will be mostly just used for this, the old one spent most of its life in the shelf.
 
#42 ·
I am using a HP Elitebook (model 9480m). Small and lightweight, and battery lasts a good while. Any of the HP Elitebook laptops will be good ones. I picked this one up for $175 used on Ebay.
 
#45 ·
I have seen some pretty cheap used ones, ebay and craigslist but I just don’t trust them. That would be a good deal for someone who is good with tech stuff. I think I rather buy new and get the protection plan.
I’ve never heard of the brand Lenovo but they seem to have pretty good reviews.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top