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Discussion Starter #1
Alright... I have been playing with this for a while now... When i pull the codes on my car i get 32 for the EGR, and 94, and 44 while running.
94 and 44 are for the primary and secondary air system or termactor solenoids from what i have found out. The air pump is still on my car and still hooked up, however, the car has no cats and the pipe that goes to the exhaust from the air pump is disconnected.
Tonight when i was playing with it, another guy noted that my car hisses when i tuen it off.. .i thought this was normal, but he said his doesn't do it, and sure enough, only one other car at the club does hiss... it's a 91 saleen.
The hiss seems to be coming from somwhere behind the intake under the 10 pin connectors maybe... i tried to find it with no luck. I tried pulling of vaccum lines and whatever and i could not find out what it was. I alson noticed that when i pulled off the EGR vaccum line and stuck my finger on the end, there was NO vaccum at that little line while the car was running. This i believe may be why i am getting a EGR error even though thing thing is new. My car does not run all that great either. I have 3:55 gears and can't get it to break the tires loose in only second gear...

Note:
The hiss is NOT coming from the air pump line that is unhooked.
There are other lines that i checked that were getting plenty of vaccum.
The engine is stock.

WHAT'S WRONG WITH THIS THING... !?!

HELP ME ... !?!
 

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The vacuum line on my EVP (sensor on back of EGR valve) comes from the EVR solenoid, the vacuum line going to the EVR solenoid comes from somewhere under the intake by the 10 pin connectors. When I had a code 34 (EGR) I checked the vacuum going to the EVP sensor and it was showing no vacuum until I rev'd the motor and then it would jump to about 3in.HG vacuum and then drop to 0 again. I checked where the vacuum was coming from and I had steady vacuum (stock motor) of 20in.HG

I could never see where that vacuum source actually comes from because it is like impossible to see under the intake in that location. I was gonna try to prop a mirror behind it so I could see what was back there but I fixed the code 34 so I never really looked.

When testing the EGR valve and sensor, the manual says to apply 10in.HG vacuum and check the resistance of the EVP sensor. I noticed that when I applied as little as 5in.HG vacuum the EGR valve would fully open so I know that the vacuum I was getting was sufficient to open it when their actually was vacuum getting to it.

I would check the vacuum lines thoroughly and try to verify that the hose coming from under the intake isn't popped off or bad.


Hope this helps.


Bill
 

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Granted, it is a little hard to tell from this distance, but here are a couple things to check:

1. Test the EGR vacuum while reving the engine. You shouldn't have vacuum at idle, and you will only get a few inches, momentarily, when you rev it up. If that vacuum check is OK, then try removing valve itself and cleaning with a wire brush. Second suspect on that "32" code would be the EVP sensor (the sensor that mounts to the EGR valve and tells the eec what position the valve is in at any given time).

2. You have two sources of stored vacuum that you can check for that "hiss." One is the little round plastic ball with a vacuum hose on it, that supplys your HVAC controls. The other is the brake vacuum booster. The plastic HVAC ball sometimes gets cracked and leaks, and the vacuum check valve may be leaking on the brake booster. Good luck.
 

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my 90 is flashing 44 while running,check your pcv valve mine is bad ,I can feel the vac line coming from my intake to it vibrating and making a strange sound.I will change it this weekend the hissing could be the crank releasing pressure due to the blocked or clogged pcv or clogged screen under the pcv.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oKAY,

I checked the vaccum on the EGR Valve again while i reved the engine up... Not too much though. Using my finger on the end of the line to feel for vaccum, I would say that there was none, or barely any at all. Is there suppose to be enough that i would feel it. It also seems like i can hear a constant hiss from behind that intake, but it's hard to tell because the smog pump is dumping it's air on the passager side too.
Looking at the routing of the vacum lines, doens't the vaccum source for the EGR come from the same plave as the left and rtight thermactor solenoids...

I hope someone has an idea of what might be wrong...
Those 94 and 44 codes a bugging me...
also the 32... I wouldn't doubt that the PCV is plugged, it's hard to get at, I have never looked at it, and i doubt the people who ownned the car before me ever would have either... But does anyone know if a PCV problem will post a code on the computer.???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Could i blow air back into the egr vaccum line to tell if there was a leak, or is there a check valve somwhere...?
 

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Make sure your PCV valve is seated properly and tightly. They'll hiss on shutdown if they're not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sure enough the PCV valve was pulled from it's seat... I would imagine it has been like that for over a year now... I dumped my oil this morning along with a engine detergent... then dumped it again to try and clean out the crankcase... I noticed that my valve cover didn't look so clean inside anymore... I am just about wreaked over this... Does this mean my engine is toast or is it ever gonna feel like it did before. I am afraid too much damage is done.
I am also having vaccum problems still with anything attached to the EGR. I borrowed a vaccum tool from a friend and started testing different places. Starting at the EGR, the vaccum doesn
't hold all the way to the intake, along with the line coming down from the intake to the canister at the front lower passager side of the engine bay. If i add vaccum to the EGR itself, it doesn't hold it either.
Needless to say, i don't really know what i am doing...

I am gonna disconnect the battery this afternoon and take for a drive then pull codes again and see what happens. After i take the smog pump off.

Thanks guys,
Is there anyone else that can tell me what should be going on in there...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So,

The pcv is back in, the smog pump is off with the vaccum line to it plugged. the holes in the rear of the heads have been blocked off with plugs.

I reset the computer by removing the positive battery cable. I ran the car around town this morning...

I am still getting the same codes... 32, and then 94,44 while running.
The only thing i can see is that there is very little vaccum going to the sensors in these locations to create the codes. I can't seem to find out where it goes thought. I followed it so far to the center vaccum connection just behind and underneath the stock upper intake. There seems to be a metal pipe that the vaccum line connects too. If i check the vaccum on it, it doesn't hold any vaccum either. Does anyone know where this goes. I don't feel like taking off my strut tower brace and intake just to see where a vaccum line goes too.

PLEASE HELP.... even if someone could test theirs for me to see what their car is doing..?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ttt

Common guys...? Does anyone know what is going on here....?
 

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Can't help you with the codes but my car has hissed too, mostly when it's stumbling around 500 or so rpms. Once it reaches "normal" idle around 750 it won't do it but it will "exhale" when I shut it off, at least now I know where to look for help. As for the Thermactor valves, have you checked the vacuum signal going to the actuating solenoids on the back of the passanger side strut tower? There should be two solenoids back there, one for the EGR and the other actuates the Thermactor valves. If you still need help I can look up the Thermactor test procedures in a manual I have at home. Shoot me an e-mail if you'd like these, they may help.

Carson
 

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this sounds just like my car, lets keep this one rolling...
 

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90' Cobra, try this with the vacuum pump,gauge.

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the solenoid that feeds vacuum to the EGR valve and put your vacuum pump on the stock factory hose and pull atleast 5in.HG and watch if the EGR valve holds the vacuum for atleast 1-2 minutes. If the vacuum drops as soon as you try to pump it up then you either have one of 3 things wrong there.

1. bad vacuum hose
2. bad EGR valve (rubber inside is torn)
3. bad seal between the EGR valve body and the EVP sensor ( there is a little rubber gasket between the 2)

Next I would check the vacuum from the source going to the EVR solenoid. Again you would check using the stock vacuum line, disconnect the stock hose from the EVR solenoid (should actually be sort of connected to the other hose going to the EGR valve) and monitor it at idle. On my stock cam'd engine I was getting atleast 20in.HG vacuum at idle and then would drop to zero at W.O.T. If you get vacuum, then depending on what type of cam you have in there would determine the amount of vacuum.

If no vacuum present then I would suspect the following

1. bad hose going to EVR solenoid
2. spot where vacuum comes from block is bad (metal/rubber plastic tee under upper intake?)

If you do have good vacuum present on one side of the EVR solenoid then put vacuum line back on EVR solenoid and then monitor the vacuum from the EVR solenoid. Place your vacuum gauge on the end of the vacuum line just before it attaches to the EGR valve. At idle you should get 0 in.HG of vacuum and if you rev the car up you should see a momentary vacuum of between 3-4in.HG coming from the EVR solenoid. If not then, I would suspect the EVR solenoid is acting up.

Do these quick things and post what you have found. I will try to get a mirror down below my upper intake to see what actually is behind there that the vacuum comes from and I'll post as well.


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright... now we are getting somewhere

Firstly, The big hiss you guys are hearing, is the crankcase trying to dump pressure throught the PCV Valve. The one on my car was pulled from the block and releasing into atmostphere... bad because all the crap goes down the hole into the crakcase from outside. So if you have this hiss, then your's may be pulled out as well, or you have a bad valve, causing it to push out the valve and leak out around the valve... Get this fixed, the PCV valve is behind the intake right below the 2 10 pin connectors. My car stoped the shut down hiss as soon as i replaced the valve and placed it back in the block...

Continuing on in this....

If I try to pull vaccum staight from the EGR valve, it doesn't hold anything... i can see the diaphram move and then drop... that is it... Perhaps my EGR has something wrong with it... I dunno.

However... going back into the line I also can't hold any vaccum. I followed this right to the nipple coming out of the intake by checking both ends of all the lines in between. Plugging one end and testing the other for vaccum. All lines are good. I just can'
t hold any vaccum off the back of the intake. There is also a vaccum line coming from the front of the intake that goes down to a canister in front of the engine on the passagger side. This also holds NO vaccum coming from the intake...

Note: on the intake there is three exits i found, the drivers side is the larger source i think, the middle goes to my EGR crap, and the passager side goes to my fuel regulator i think... The fuel regulator seems to have lots of vaccum from what i remember, i am gonna check again tonight. I also have a mustang meeting tonight, so i am gonna see what everyone else car there is doing.

I am very curious to what these all go to, and what is busted. If some one has a stock intake lying around, could they have a look under it, maybe take a picture and post it. It would save me pulling mine off.

Also, does anyone know how the EVP valve or whatever it is that controls the EGR Vaccum works. I have heard that there is a filter on the top if the cover is pulled off the top of it, that can be cleaned... other than that though... what does it do.?
 

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If you pull vacuum on the EGR valve itself and it doesn't hold the vacuum then refer to my previous post about what could be wrong. I've found that if you use the stock vacuum line from the EVR to the EGR valve and connect the vacuum pump on this it makes a better seal than the vacuum hose that came with my vacuum pump.

The EVR solenoid get's information to open up from the EEC. When it opens up, it allows vacuum to activate the EGR valve to open and then the EVP sensor on the back of the EGR valve senses this and reports back to the EEC that it has opened. There is a small plastic cap on the top of the EVR solenoid and underneath the cap is a small air filter. If you remove the air cleaner you'll see a small orifice, if you put your finger on it, that will cause the car to stall since your allowing all the vacuum coming from the intake to fully extend the EGR valve and open it up.

I'm a little confused on what you mean by the lines coming off the intake won't "hold" a vacuum. Are you checking vacuum on these lines with a gauge while the car is running or are you trying to pull vacuum with a vacuum pump and then watching a gauge and see that the vacuum drops off?


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks,

What I am doing is hooking the vaccum pump with a gauge to the intake vaccum outlet for the EGR/EVP ect... and it holds no vaccum... this may be normal though...?
I will play around with this stuff again after work... I am beginning to forget what i have and havne't checked.
If the EGR was not holding vaccum, why would i be getting the 44 and 94 codes for my theractor solenoids...? From what i remember these are all hooked to the EGR vaccum somehow... But i am not sure.
I am gonna check it all out again tonight and post later tonight what is happening.
 

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The codes 44 & 94 are telling you that your secondary air system is having problems. The TAB/TAD solenoid directs secondary air to either the exhaust manifold or catalytic convertor. I will have to do more research on where the secondary air comes from. I would not count out the fact that you have neither the smog pump connected or the cats for the TAB/TAD to direct the air to. If someone who has removed their cats and smog pump connection would post to tell you that's the normal codes to get, that would help.


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hmmmmm

Well, i pulled the vaccum line off the EVP sensor, that contols the EGR, and then started the car up... Well, there was lotz of vaccum at the sensor after all. I guess now that i think about it... Trying to get vaccum from a pump that goes back to the intake, well i am just pulling air backwards through the intake... so i probably never would have vaccum there. So everything is fine there... Checking my EGR, i pulled it off quick, and it sounds like the diaphram is leaking... Crappy deal, i just replaced the thing last fall... Anyone have a recommendation of what to replace it with. I have heard that ford ones are the only way to go... except they cost twice as much... :( Expains code 34...

I am still a little weiry about the 44 and 94 codes... I have had them ever since the air pump was disconnected from the exhaust. Maybe even before that.
Now, i don't even have the smog pump on, the vaccum lines going to the two valves for the smog pump are blocked off. Thats the valves, not the control solenoids. I blocked off the holes in the heads with spark plugs ends with the ceramic busted off.

Anyone else know anything about it...?

Bill... thanks, you've been a great help so far... i have been looking in my Ford EEC-IV manual... it seems to be no help.
 

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No problem helping you at all :) I was wondering if you were able to verify if the little gasket (looks like a rubber band) was properly on the EVP sensor? If it's not seated right than it would cause you to loose vacuum at the EGR valve.

As for the other codes I'm at a loss but I think by asking in other posts is the way to go. Someone else has to have the same and probably just ignores them because they know what causes it.


Bill
 

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Ok, me still getting codes 44 and 94...HELP here!?
 
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