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Discussion Starter #1
Does that not work on the fuel injected computer cars for some reason? Im getting my highest reading of 18 well past where the marks on the balncer end.(im guessing around 45-50 degrees) You can easily tell that its way too far advanced at that point though. Anywhere between 10-18 Im only getting like 15 at most. Isnt that kinda low with stock cam and 1.7s?

And I did pull the spout thing out when trying this. Thanks for any input.
 

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I've never heard of that method before.

Why not just go buy a $30 timing light? If your really broke, take it back when your done using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do have a timing light but forgot to take it back afterward.lol
No ones ever heard of setting up timing like that before? No wonder it doesnt work... Well, does 15 at idle with stock cam sound right then? Thanks
 

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cb93lx said:
does 15 at idle with stock cam sound right then?
That should work good, as long as you use premium fuel.
 

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Yes - that does work, BUT that is because with timing at 10* and the Spout out, when you put the spout connector back in, you'll have around 35-40* BTDC at idle rpms and low loads, so what you saw sounds correct. However, you would NOT want it like that due to how the EEC controls timing.

What you can try is leaving the spout in and find where the vacuum is highest, but all you are doing is finding a good timing number for idle, not anything else.
 

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The vacuum gauge method is an old timer mechanic trick, some of the old guys used to do that because it was fast and easy. It used to work OK on the old cars because the advance curve was so slow that they might not see full advance until 5000 RPM or so.

Jay95gt is right, the way the EEC controls timing you could end up with some extremely advanced timing under certain conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, I feel stupid now for not remembering that the computer adds timing even at idle.. . I was just thinking that the 15psi at idle was low but I'll see what its at with the spout plugged in. Thanks again
 
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