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Discussion Starter #1
I've just completed a head and intake swap this past week and when I went to start it back up it started, ran very rough and stalled. I tried to restart it and the starter gave out. I've replaced the starter and the engine starts (barely) when it's cold but will try to idle around 500rpm and then stalls out. If I put my foot into it a little, the engine smoothes out around 2000rpm. When I try to restart it after it stalls at idle, the engine turns but won't fire, so it floods. I've checked everything, I can think of:lifter preload,compression,no vacuum leaks(that I can tell anyway), TPS set to .94v, and I'm pretty sure the distributor is in place properly. I've got Windsor Jr. 180 heads, Edelbrock Performer, 3/8" spacer, Accel 24# inj., 255lph FP, C&L 76mm MAF, BBK 70mm TB, adj. FPR set to 40psi, shortys, O/R H-pipe, and I've yanked the smog pump and A/C. Please give me some ideas on what might fix it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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you pushrods might be too long it sounds like your rockers are adjusted to tight and making it hard to turn the motor over. Also are your sure your piston is making slight contact with your head?!?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My rocker arms are adjusted to just under a half turn past zero lash, so that's not the case. The pushrods are the length recommended by World Products for these heads and the last time I checked pistons do not come in contact with cylinder heads. They're supposed to be around .010 in. (I think that's the right spec.-don't feel like looking it up right now) above the deck of the block at TDC. The head gasket I'm using compresses to a thickness of .039 in. preventing the piston from hitting the head.

Thanks for the ideas but does anyone else (who knows what they're talking about) have any ideas?
 

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there have been a million people say "I Know I dont it right" but that doesnt mean you did, as far as the piston contacting the head I meant the valves. As far as know what i am talking about I have built quite a few engines so dont start dissing anyhow youll never have luck getting anyhelp being an ******* peace and chicken grease:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not trying to being rude but the suggestions you have given don't fit the symptoms. The car will start up when cold and run rough, but won't restart. If it were the things you have mentioned it would consistently run rough. There is no piston to valve interference, I checked with modeling clay. I have sufficient clearance- it's a stock cam anyway with 1.7 RR. I'm just looking to see if anyone has had a similar problem, or if anyone has a suggestion I haven't tried yet. I'm not a "newbie" to Mustangs but this is the first time I've run into this problem.
 

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i think rich is talking out his ass...... anyway...... by what your describing i would think it is a timing issue be it distributer or cam. i stabed my dist 180* out once and it wouldnt run. spun it 180* and it fired and had your exact symptoms. played w/ the timing while someone was cranking and got it to run smooth until i got a timing light on it and the idle set. you mention that it "smooths out" after 2000. that is the EXACT same thing that my car did w/ way retarded timing. i think youll notice the headers get real hot real quick or glow? or maybe smoke out the dipstick tube after being run for a few min.? other sugestions....... does it sound like you have compression? (i left paper towel in the intake ports and had to pull the heads). if the pushrods are to long or the lifters were colapsed while adjusting the valves the valves could be hanging open? (again do you have compression? (ahhh you say you do, nm)). you could have a vaccum leak though it would have to be large....
last q, if you blip the throttle does it try to die?? if it does it is definately your timing.
 

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it sounds like your rockers are adjusted to tight and making it hard to turn the motor over
if the rockers are to tight the motor will will spin easily do to a complete lack of compression.
 

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Alright, if you can run the motor at 2000, have a buddy check timing at that point. If timing is somewhere in the ballpark of 20 -30 degrees, that's fine. If it just won't idle, open up base idle. Don't worry about anything else like tp. It doesn't matter at this point. If everything you say is OK, give the engine some air and it should run. Try unplugging the maf as well. Once you get it running, we can worry about the little stuff.
 
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