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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm using Baer 11" Track rear discs (5lug converted) and cannot get enough momentum from handle to pads (Hawk HP+) to pass local inspection. BTW pedal works beautifully with setup. Everything is OK and properly adjusted...I guess Baer goofed on this design because there is no way to get any more power from handle to pads without extending either brake handle or lever-length at caliper.
Is there anybody who has done a SN or Cobra upgrade (is it 11.5" or is there 13"?) and can testify that e-brakes will actually work? And what FMS part#'s do I need since I have cables and 5-lug setup already (the m-2300K doesn't give me breakdown of parts).
Need some experienced help here!
 

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i did the full cobra brake swap and my ebrake works perfectly. i'm not sure what style rear calipers the baer setup uses but if they are the same setup as the sn-95s did you modify the ebrake handle like the m2300 directions say? i'm not sure what cables your using now but i have the adjustable front cable;

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ront-Parking-Brake-Cable-For-Rear-Disc-Brakes

and if your cars a '93 like mine you need '93 Cobra rear cables:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-2635A/1993-Mustang-Cobra-Rear-Parking-Brake-Cable
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1st, no I haven't done the brake handle mod because I don't see how in the world that would give me any more momentum on the cable? I see it as a mod to use the adjustable cable...correct me if I'm wrong?
2nd, I need to find out FMS part#'s to convert to Cobra rears (I don't think I can use the Baer calipers...and especially because the ebrake problem is the linkage design of these calipers). I would need Cobra calipers, rotors, bracket for calipers...anything else?
 

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if u did the handle mod and got the frpp adjustable front cable maybe you will be able to adjust it so the baer calipers will hold? theres a good amount of room for adjustment with that cable, just an idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My current setup has all the adjustment needed to make cables snug. If you've done the handle mod, could you explain what is the actual benefit or what do you achieve by the mod? As far as I've understood the mod just makes the handle work with the adjustable front cable...correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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im not sure if the mod is only so u can use the adjustable cable or not. maybe someone else will come in n know for sure but other than cutting the spring i thought welding the pawl to the second tooth up i think it was would add a little extra tension to the cable but i could be wrong
 

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I don't know what cables the baer setup uses.

With my m2300k kit, i did the handle mod and then using the adjustable center cable, tightened up the slack so that the e brake would be tighter and engage the parking brake sooner,

The cables stretch, so in had to adjust mine a few times til it stopped stretching
 

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Look underneath the trans tunnel where the brake cables from the rear connect to the cable from the handle. Tighten the adjustment there.
 

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I think if you get the cable adjusted as suggested above you may be able to achieve the LEVERAGE you're after. Mass x Velocity = Momentum
 

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I could be wrong but I thought by welding the 2nd tooth and cutting the spring makes the e brake system a non self adjusting system. Originally you would have to ratchet the brake handle while holding your foot on the brake to tighten the cable. After the mod you just have to pull up on the e brake once and it holds.
 

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I could be wrong but I thought by welding the 2nd tooth and cutting the spring makes the e brake system a non self adjusting system. Originally you would have to ratchet the brake handle while holding your foot on the brake to tighten the cable. After the mod you just have to pull up on the e brake once and it holds.
That's where the adjustable center cable comes in. You defeat the self adjuster and do it manual.

If you leave the self adjuster functional, it can tighten up on it's own and cause the rear brakes to drag.
 

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That's where the adjustable center cable comes in. You defeat the self adjuster and do it manual.

If you leave the self adjuster functional, it can tighten up on it's own and cause the rear brakes to drag.

Sweet, so I was right. Which makes me wonder how sn95 systems work with discs in the back and they have the same e brake handles as foxes? :idunno: :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I gather from all the above info that the tensioner mod will only help e-brakes from possible dragging with rear discs but will not make handle apply any more force to discs.(?)
I'm stumped that BAER is still trying to cover up their weak design by saying that this mod will improve the e-brakes. You'ld think that with the prices they charge...
I'm at this point looking at using another e-brake handle design altogether(one that will give more force to cable) and or revamping the Baer pivot-arm on the rear calipers (again maybe a longer arm for more leverage from cable pull).
To the drawing board i guess....
 

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I understand what you are saying. I have the same problem with my cobra rear brake set-up. I've done the e-brake mod. New cables, adjustable front cable. My e-brake works, but does not lock up the rear wheels like it should. Subscribing for a cure.
Jim
 

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I'm at this point looking at using another e-brake handle design altogether(one that will give more force to cable) and or revamping the Baer pivot-arm on the rear calipers (again maybe a longer arm for more leverage from cable pull)
how does the arm attach to the caliper? if it's on a splined shaft with a nut maybe you could pull it off and move it away from the cable a few splines as long as theres not a keyway to center it?
 

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Dude...tighten the frigging cable before you go re-engineering everything. I have the same brakes and have been through the same problem. It may not be the best design, but it WILL hold the car, even on an incline, when it's adjusted properly.
 

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Sweet, so I was right. Which makes me wonder how sn95 systems work with discs in the back and they have the same e brake handles as foxes? :idunno: :idunno:


They really don't. I forget the difference, but there is something different about the sn95 handle. I forget though :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
how does the arm attach to the caliper? if it's on a splined shaft with a nut maybe you could pull it off and move it away from the cable a few splines as long as theres not a keyway to center it?
Before I start possibly revamping the caliper arm...I took care of the suggested fix by modding the handle (took out spring and weld cam positioner to 2nd tooth) and took out all slack from cables with locking cable one onto equalizer. Waited till this morning to test ebrake and we got about 4" of snow on the ground...hah! To be continued.

The Baer arm is is on a fixed pivot point mounted on their own metal bracket. I think the arm is a working design to give a lot of force on the stud that it drives towards a "swing cam". This is where I think the weak point is. The caliper piston goes thru the cam and has nothing to do with ebrake. The cam is hex screw adjusted from the opposite of cable arm. The thing I CANT firure out on this (without taking caliper and piston apart)=>adj the screw OUT takes slack out of cable arm, adj screw IN (pushing pad towards disc) puts slack on arm...thats why I called it "swing cam", is it really somehow attached to brake piston??? If so WHY??? Baer never answered my question.
 
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