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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I purchase these heads can I go stud mount with scorpion or fms 1.6 RR's and still use the stock valve covers? Or will there be clearance issues?

Who thinks I should go stud mount anyways? Is their any REAL advantages to it?

Thanks Corralers
 

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Stud mount is much better in a few ways. First, you gain adjustability in the valvetrain which allows you to set the rockers much easier. Pedestal rockers may need shims or different length pushrods and quite frankly they're just a pain in the ass. Stud mount are also stronger. If you go with a 7/16" stud (which you should) you will pretty much never break one. A pedestal rocker uses a small 5/16" bolt that will not stand up to much spring pressure or RPM before it breaks.

You probably can't use the stock covers unless they are the 92 - 93 covers without the baffle inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have 92 style covers so maybe I can reuse them
 

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n8s_stang said:
Stud mount is much better in a few ways. First, you gain adjustability in the valvetrain which allows you to set the rockers much easier. Pedestal rockers may need shims or different length pushrods and quite frankly they're just a pain in the ass. Stud mount are also stronger. If you go with a 7/16" stud (which you should) you will pretty much never break one. A pedestal rocker uses a small 5/16" bolt that will not stand up to much spring pressure or RPM before it breaks.

You probably can't use the stock covers unless they are the 92 - 93 covers without the baffle inside.
I don't argee if anything pedestal are easier to install than stud, less human error is involded since all you do is bolt them down opposed to the adjustable ones that require readjustment after long periods of use. Plus the amount of power and rpm a street engine sees the statement that pedestal will break is pretty far out there, i mean comon how many street cars see 7K+ rpm shift points.

NC with pedestal mount rockers you can get away with stock covers up to 1.7rr with removing the baffle, but stud mounts require taller valve covers because of the studs.
 

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n8s_stang said:
Stud mount is much better in a few ways. First, you gain adjustability in the valvetrain which allows you to set the rockers much easier. Pedestal rockers may need shims or different length pushrods and quite frankly they're just a pain in the ass. Stud mount are also stronger. If you go with a 7/16" stud (which you should) you will pretty much never break one. A pedestal rocker uses a small 5/16" bolt that will not stand up to much spring pressure or RPM before it breaks.

You probably can't use the stock covers unless they are the 92 - 93 covers without the baffle inside.
 

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bmo37 said:
I don't argee if anything pedestal are easier to install than stud, less human error is involded since all you do is bolt them down opposed to the adjustable ones that require readjustment after long periods of use. Plus the amount of power and rpm a street engine sees the statement that pedestal will break is pretty far out there, i mean comon how many street cars see 7K+ rpm shift points.

NC with pedestal mount rockers you can get away with stock covers up to 1.7rr with removing the baffle, but stud mounts require taller valve covers because of the studs.
Alright... well next time you assemble an engine and have pushrods that are too short, and need to wait a week for new ones to be shipped because the local parts store doesn't have the length you need, try and tell me pedestal aren't annoying.

And as far as stud mount needing adjusting, we're not talking about a solid lifter here. Chevy small blocks have had stud mount hydraulic setups for 50 years and I don't remember those needing adjusting.
 

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n8s_stang said:
Alright... well next time you assemble an engine and have pushrods that are too short, and need to wait a week for new ones to be shipped because the local parts store doesn't have the length you need, try and tell me pedestal aren't annoying.

And as far as stud mount needing adjusting, we're not talking about a solid lifter here. Chevy small blocks have had stud mount hydraulic setups for 50 years and I don't remember those needing adjusting.
I won't run into this problem cause i build my engines the right way and measure the correct length using a pushrod checker, before i purchase pushrods. No one should ever take someones word on how long a pushrod to use, save time and money and measure valvetrain clearnace the right way the first time.

I also never heard of putting adjustable stud mount rockers on and running them without readjusting them after a few thousand miles, but who knows maybe some people get lucky.
 

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bmo37 said:
I won't run into this problem cause i build my engines the right way and measure the correct length using a pushrod checker, before i purchase pushrods.
Notice how I said "if you have pushrods that are too short" meaning you checked the length of the pushrods before final assembly:rolleyes:.
 
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