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Discussion Starter · #682 ·
Dude - there are precisely 5 zip ties on the car that are not used for wiring. One of them is broken. They're the source of the LTD's magic juju.
 

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port job looks great and im sure air ram will help cooling
 

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Oh yeah - one more: the air dams. First, the materials:

Look - cheap! Home depot sells two grades - the heavier (and more expensive at just under $4 for 4 feet - lol), I used for the bottom dam; the lighter weight stuff was used for the sides. Body pins were used to attach them.

What it looks like installed (it's the darker one behind the factory pre-shaped piece):

Whats the name of the stuff from the depot you used for the air dam?
what department?
 

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Discussion Starter · #685 ·
It's called, "vinyl wall base." I think it was in flooring - dunno; didn't pay much attention to what department I was in.

However, now I have another problem that's been getting progressively worse. At about 2,000 rpm, under load, the car stutters starting around 0" of vacuum, going into boost. In fact, it's running kinda rough under WOT. I'm suspecting ignition - spark blowout. I gapped the plugs to .030-.032 originally, will try closing them down to .026 - if that doesn't correct the problem, I'll look elsewhere. On the bright side, it appears that we've picked up 1-2 pounds of boost.

Any thoughts?
 

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well picking up boost, but having the shutter I would think is tuning issues.

plus like you said, more boost makes your more likely to blow the spark out
 

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I'm just outside the beltway in mont. co. - I've been to Cecil once or twice, but years ago. That would be a good day to shake things out; alas, I've had to work most saturdays in the last couple of months which may or may not be the case on the 13th; if not, then only if I can get a sitter... ahh the responsibilities of being all adult n' stuff...
Old here, but I'm in md too. In the process of installing a m122 on my fox. I'd love to check your car out someday being we aren't too far away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #692 ·
302army187 - well, I gapped the plugs down to .026 - no improvement. Next, I'm looking into the old Jacobs ignition coil, and I've identified some small vacuum leaks.

wadell72 - hopefully I've been able to give some people some ideas and tips that they find useful.

MightyJo3Young - you can shoot me a PM if you want to come by and check out the car. Warning - I might conscript you into a tuning drive.

Networktec - I did indeed stitch together a bunch of photos in photoshop. It's under the "animation" tool.



So onto the problem I alluded to in my note to 302army187 - I stutters/runs rough at 2,000 rpm under load in 3rd and 4th gears when it's been driven for a while and it's good and warm. By 2,200 rpm is sompletely clears up and pulls fine. It's not a problem in 1 or 2nd, because the converter's unlocked in those gears and it pushes through 2,000 pretty easily. Also, when it's up to "stutter" temp, it'll ping under heavy throttle at various seemingly random places.

I did disconnect the vacuum advance to make sure that wasn't it, and it wasn't. But boy howdy did the motor run a lot hotter. With the distributor no longer locked out, the vacuum advance seems to be mandatory.

Also, as of late, I've noticed sporadic bogs off idle. I'm looking into the ignition coil, but also identified a slightly loose vacuum hose going to the brake booster. I've put small hose clamps on the lines to fix them. Perhaps, at temp, the hose get a bit softer and generates a leak. Since the EFI is primarily MAP load based, a vacuum leak that gets worse with heat would, in fact cause the odd bog off idle, and random detonation. Not sure about the stuttering at 2,000 rpm. Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #693 ·
Replying to myself... depending your generation, it's either a Billy Idol sneer (i.e. "Dancing with myself") or fapping. Whatever. This is an interesting discovery - especially for all you positive displacement folks.

The vacuum leak fix seems to have fixed the driveability issues, for the most part. But I also uncovered a pretty major flaw inherent in the system (keeping with the '80's theme - a ghost in the machine, if you will). That's The Police, btw. Or I could say, I made a sick discovery - late '90's, the (awesome) band Clutch. But I did not find a lead box in Sassafras Cove. I did do a datalog, though.

After cruising for a bit, and then getting on it, I got that [email protected][email protected] detonation again. Let's see if you can spot why:



A little further in the same part-throttle pull:


Even further down in the same pull:


Everything looks ok EXCEPT the air charge temps. Yes, they're high; but more importantly, look at the trend - they actually COOL OFF while in boost!

As proof of concept, I offer you another run:


Further into the same run:


This leads me to the conclusion that the blower's generating waaayyyy to much heat cruising around. I think I'm gonna try replacing the bypass with an open elbow - I know I won't get much, if any, boost but the idea is to see if the air charge temps go down. If so, then I need to re-think my bypass. If not, well, then, I'm kinda at a loss.


BTW - my apologizes to those who've subscribed and got a crapload of notifications about this thread - I went through the whole thing and moved all the videos to youtube. As a public service, I'll post them all in one video extravaganza post (when time allows), just so you veterans don't have to sift through the whole thread to find them - I know some of you weren't able to/or didn't want to download the videos. Youtube is much easier.
 

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as soon as I saw the temp's I was thinking bypass also.


Wonder if the ol' drill a small hole in the throttle body trick would help keep it a hair cooler also...


I read a thread with a v6 with a m112 that the guy didn't hook up the bypass at all, or something like that, and man was his idle, and cursing temps ridiculous.


I read there is a way to adjust the bypass to how sensitive it is to closing up.... maybe try that? make it a bet less sensitive? might make the boost come on a little later when you roll into the throttle, but I bet your temp's would be way lower.
 

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as soon as I saw the temp's I was thinking bypass also.


Wonder if the ol' drill a small hole in the throttle body trick would help keep it a hair cooler also...


I read a thread with a v6 with a m112 that the guy didn't hook up the bypass at all, or something like that, and man was his idle, and cursing temps ridiculous.


I read there is a way to adjust the bypass to how sensitive it is to closing up.... maybe try that? make it a bet less sensitive? might make the boost come on a little later when you roll into the throttle, but I bet your temp's would be way lower.

Do you think we would have the same problems stemming from the bypass? I suppose so since it is the exact same thing.
 

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Do you think we would have the same problems stemming from the bypass? I suppose so since it is the exact same thing.
not sure what you mean by stemming bud. unless there is something about the bypass on our set up's that I don't know about
 

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:)just a thought, when i had my gtp (m90) it had an adj boost bypass valve. i could adj it at any point to when i wanted boost to come on hard, all the time, or when i had my foot down. i believe that would correlate to boost temps. i don't know how the m122 is but anyway.....for the gp/gtp or regals we could put an adapter on them to fab an intercooler, just another way of quelching the heat. good luck dude, you'll get this figured out soon
 

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Just meant is the bypass going to cause the same problems for us. Haven't read every post in this thread so I'm not exactly sure what the whole setup is. Just know its side mounted.

My words were :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #699 ·
I do think the vacuum operated bypass is a flawed concept, especially in a situation with a positive displacement blower and an overdrive automatic transmission. Take a look at some of the throttle position/boost/rpm data - 31% throttle, 7.9 lbs of boost at 2,300 rpm. A centrifugal making 8 lbs of boost at 2,300 rpm would probably make 50 psi at 5,500 rpm :)rofl:). And that's at less than 1/3 throttle. Simply not necessary.

The bypass I had on the M90 was mechanical - a 1.5" butterfly valve linked to the throttle with a bicycle brake cable. When the throttle was wide open, the bypass was closed. At all other times it was at least partially open.

What I'm thinking is that this thing needs a bypass that only closes above say 70% throttle - open at all other times. It has to flow well. The piping is 1". The valve needs to be a compact, right-angle type of thing to drop into the existing space. Let's get thinking. Start offering up ideas, guys.

But none of this precludes enjoyment of the car. It just means the for long, steady-state, uphill highway cruising, I have to drop it into third gear. For now. Also next up are mufflers and a final dyno tune.

BTW - just so you subscribers don't have to go back, here's the YouTube channel I've put the videos on: AlexLTDLX's Channel - YouTube. And here's some highlights:






There's 26 LTD videos in all. Have Fun!
 

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Wow love your thread a lot of great info. I am piking up a 5.0 myself and want to kind of do my car on a little budget. Your Haltech reminds me of my Supra days. I have out of the mustang scene for quite a while and have been trying to get caught back up. This thread is great. All your supercharger info has made me want to play more with my truck, but right now I think I am goin to focus on my coupe. I would be pleased to get 11out of the stock block untill I figure if I want to get more involved. I think I can get waya with a little less power. I love this thread and all the great constructive input...

I do have a couple questions?

I was wondering if you ever contemplated going with a distributorless ignition, not sure if you version of haltech can do it, humm? May bee pick up some coils from a newer stang or some type of hybrid?

Second your Intake right above your exhaust. Have you ever though anbout running to the cowl for colder air or running it up front?
 
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