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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 5.0 from a Vic that I'm currently trying to build carbureted. Right now I'm looking at a cam with .448/.472 lift and 280/290 lobe separation, and have a E4ZE 9425 intake off of a Foxbody, the carb is probably not going to run more than 600cfm. Since I'm currently also building a house, my budget is extremely limited (so probably to the junkyard) and I'm currently debating on an E7 vs GT40 vs GT40P heads. I know the E7 will be the easiest to find, the P's will flow worse than the 40's, and the 40's will probably be the hardest to find, and that all of them will need new valve components. I was wondering which would be the best to pursue, and would any setup be able to make around 250-270hp at the crank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
PS - I'm not try to make crazy horsepower numbers at the moment. I just want to know which route would be the most hassle free, and if any one would know the power that can be realistically gained from the setup.
 

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I did he e7 heads on my 85 LoPo block which originally came with E5 heads (even worse), and after the head swap along with an edelbrock 2121 manifold, I felt a considerable difference. Never got any dyno numbers but it was enough to feel a difference. This was with a CFI unit. I really do like the iron heads, all three of my 302s have e7s. I do have some worked over GT40s that are going on my next engine build. Id try for the three bar GT40s at the junkyard, who knows, you might get lucky. They’ll make more power than the E7s. Lotsa guys running the P heads too, never have myself, but from the years I’ve been messin with these things, the Ps always have mixed reviews with header clearance. Some use 90 degree boots and others have constant burnt wires.
 

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One of those antique Melling flat tappet baseball bats?

The factory Ford four barrel intake is a turd...

No mention regarding exhaust... long tubes or factory manifolds?

Better off finding some left over 302HO stuff from the classified ads and bolt on a Weiand Stealth intake.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My Stang is 3400 lbs. In the future, I plan on turning it into a drag car. But, when I'm a bit more liquid, I'll probably drop a built 351w into the Stang. Right now, I am trying to just get the engine not anemic for as cheap as possible. If that means using archaic flat tappets and a stock intake, then so be it.

Also, exhaust is probably going to be a set of cheap shortys with true dual. I liked it on my Vic, and the setup is pretty straight forward.
 

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P head flow the most followed by regular gt40 then e7 heads. P heads can be a pain to get headers. Regular headers can work but they are a pain to change plugs and you may have issues burning up plug wires. 3bar gt40 heads have none if those problems but they are getting hard to find. I would try to find gt40 just because i don't want to deal with the problems of P heads.
 

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you can get 275 crank just from a duel plane intake, proper a/f ratio from jetting, proper plugs, e7s with a valve job and maybe 1.7s.

p heads would help but headers suck. 3 bar heads have a large cc in them.

stick a set of flo tek heads on with a b303 cam and a 600 carb.

also since you're building a house, ytf do you want to screw around with an engine? people who do budget builds always have the money to do it right the second time around.

budget builds suck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Currently I'm just trying to get a decent running engine. I have an 89 Vic, but the pos AOD unfortunately blew up. I also have a 3.8 New Edge with a 5.0 K member and a blown up engine. Honestly, if it would fit, I'd put the 4r70w in with the Vic to get her running again, but it is just a hair too long. The factory heads and intake on the Vic bogged it down and would literally choke it out, and if I'm going to drop the engine into any car would like to get her breathing well enough. I don't need anything outrageous, just a car that's fun to drive.
 

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spend money wisely... e7's pretty close to free most places.. spend money on a stock roller cam.. usually 50 bucks.. and lifters... and a good intake / carb..
Told him that but...you can lead a horse to water... 🐴
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Dude, I was just answering questions people had. I haven't dismissed anything. I'm just trying to gain introspective within the parameters I have.

It kind of sucks to have two cars just sitting. I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of performance I can from the engine. I am purely trying to build a mild street engine.
 

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He can’t afford to drink at your pond. So he’s asking which is the better bang for buck pond.
Yeah cuz used "STOCK" 5.0 parts are so expensive... :ROFLMAO::LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't get what the problem about me asking which route to go down is. You guys are 100% completely right, I can't afford to drink at your ponds. I'm not a professional anything with a 50k+ yearly salary. I am a broke-dick motherfucker with schooling and a house in the very near future, who is just inquiring to see which of the one of the ****ass broke ponds that I can afford are filled the least with ****. I'm not trying to rip on anyone's setup or recommendations, I'm not trying to discredit anyone, I'm just trying to hear the differences of experience between different setups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah cuz used "STOCK" 5.0 parts are so expensive... :ROFLMAO::LOL:
Sorry if I completely miss the mark with this question, and I'm wasting your time. But, would a cam from an 8th gen f150 work or should I try to find a 5.0 Explorer. I live in the Rust Belt, so Fox Mustangs and MK VIIs are pretty rare here let alone any good condition ones. Trucks and SUV's are pretty much going to be my main sources for parts.
 

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Sorry if I completely miss the mark with this question, and I'm wasting your time. But, would a cam from an 8th gen f150 work or should I try to find a 5.0 Explorer. I live in the Rust Belt, so Fox Mustangs and MK VIIs are pretty rare here let alone any good condition ones. Trucks and SUV's are pretty much going to be my main sources for parts.
Where do you live?
 
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