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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well ever since i have had my car the door handle hasnt worked, its broken off. So you have to let your self in the passanger side. I have new door handles and will have this fixed durning spring break.

but this is nto the problem. you have to open the door with the handle, and then you have to push it. Upon closer inspection the door has started to drop it seems when i push up on the out side it will move 1/2"

So do i replace the hinges or what do i need to do to have this problem fixed. Its starting to get worse

ike
 

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You need to replace the door bushings in the hinges. You can get new pins and bushings in the HELP section of your local A-zone or Advance Auto Parts.

Carson
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok thanks, i found them at johns mustang, for the pin, and bushings for 2 dollars a door

ill take a look at Autozone
 

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Ford sells em for $9 a door, I know its a hell of a lot of money for pins and bushings but I'm pretty sure THESE won't wear out...

good luck cutting those harder than a priest in a playground pins.

does your door handle take some effort to pull open or does it pop at at the slightest pull of a finger? If your doors are not very easy to open you should remove the latch mechanism and free it up and lubricate it. These things were seized up pretty good and it only took a little ice in them before they would be impossible to open. I broke 3 door handles but after fixing them up the doors can be opened with ease even buried under a half inch of ice. If you wanna do that it will cost you an hour extra for each one, I'll give you some tips...

The hinge bushings are a nice thing to replace too, they keep the door positioned perfectly to glide into place nice and smooth. You can check them just by yanking the door up when it's open. With good bushings the door will NOT move at all; rather, you will jerk the whole car up and down...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well i have no door handle on the broken side, i bought pins and bushings for my drivers door, there is around 1/2 inch play. When your in the car opening the door, you have to pull the handle then you have to pull it again and push. Now when i pulled up on whats left of the handle and my gf pulled the inside handle it opened right up.

i just hope this is an easy install.
 

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Calypso Ike said:
i just hope this is an easy install.
get a buddy to come over to help you out - then do this:

get a Dremel and use/install a metal cutting wheel

Open the door you are working with all the way to it's "end" of travel and have your friend HOLD the end of the door UP while it is opened. You do NOT want him to put any pressure on it or "lift it", you just want him to hold the door in position so it does not "drop"

Get the Dremel ready and pick your hinge pin you want to work with first.

Using the Dremel, slice through the middle of the hinge pin you are replacing. Be sure that your friend is still holding the end of the door so it will not "collapse" or cause the Dreml to get stuck in the middle of cutting.

Once you have cut through the hinge pin, push out the bottom half of the hinge pin (downwards), it should fall out, then push out the top half of the hinge pin (upwards).

After removing the pieces of the hinge pin, if there is any remaining brass bushings in the actual hinge, you want to remove those too. These brass bushings were inserted into the actual hinge and the hinge pin slid through these bushings.

(All the while, your buddy should still be holding the door for you, at least "steadying" it.)

After removing the bushings (if any were left), now install the new brass bushings into the hinge.

Take your new hinge pin, and slide it down from the TOP through the first brass bushing and through the next brass bushing in the hinge. At this point, you should have the hinge pin going through the hinge like a "nail", so the hinge pin "head" is at the top. (ie: hinge pin ----> " T ")

Most aftermarket hinge pin kits come with an aluminum hinge pin, (2) brass bushings and a cotter pin. The hinge pin always slides in from the top and at the bottom of the hinge pin, once protruding through the bottom brass bushing in the actual hinge, there is a hole in the hinge pin. Slide the cotter pin through this hole to lock the hinge pin into place, so it cannot come lose or out.

Now your buddy can let go of the door and it should NOT drop AS MUCH. If there is still play in it, replace the second hinge pin (whatever one you were not working with) on that same door. Have your friend hold the door again and repeat the process for all hinge pins that need replacing.


It sounds like alot above, but honestly, it's probabaly no more than a 30-45 minute job to replace the (2) hinge pins per door.

In doing the above, you do NOT have to mess with the actual door hinges and do NOT have to remove either door at all!

One more thing to check out for wear on a door is the actual door striker. This is mounted to the B-pillar. These too can be replaced and are also found in most Auto Parts stores. Just be sure you do get the right one, as Ford had changed/revised the design from 1979 through 1993... If that stiker is worn out, that will also cause a misaligned door when closed. It will not necessarily cause any problems with a "sagging door", but will cause problems when trying to close or open the door if it is worn out and the door latch gets hung up on it.

I hope the above is helpful, feel free to ask any questions.
 

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Phil I don't see how you can say removing the door is not necessary. The bushings have a flange on them and press into the outer part of the hinge from the inside, so that the door sits on the bushings instead of wearing down the surfaces of the hinge halves.

Either way I got the pins out but then I ended up having to set the door on its side on a padded support because the friggin bushings wouldn't come out without an air hammer.

Put the bottom pin in from the top, but the top one will have to go in from the bottom as there is not enough clearance. The hinges are not on a perfect line so there will be alot of tightness that holds the pin in place (you'll have to force them in). Oil the pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
phil nice write up, that and your home depo padding idea sound good. I hope to be able to get this done this weekend. And the padding will be done over spring break, replace all the factory stuff, thanks rayIII i think ill start spraying penatrating oil on these today.
 

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They were not seized, just a tight fit. Others have said they come out fine with a tap from a hammer.
 
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