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Donovans Rio Red 94 GT Convertible Build

38773 Views 182 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  Donovan
After a few suggestions to make my own thread on my car I decided to put something together.

The back story on this car was that it was bought in 98 from an older lady in the portland area. It had 12k and was hardly driven. I was looking at 95 cobra convertables, but I could justify the extra 7k since I was just going to start chopping away at it as soon as I got it in my garage. Over the following 5 years I ended up installing the full Saleen body kit, put a R-4 blocked N/A 347 stroker in it plus a bunch of other stuff. Then due to some other projects this thing got back burnered. It basically sat (in working condition) until the spring of 09. Here is what it looked like at that point:







Original 347 build from 01'



Here is one of the problems that I had that made me start the rebuild/update. Fel-Pro paper gaskets don't seem to hold up for long.



My new goal was to fix some of the problems the car had with the charging system, fuel system, cooling system and some minor other bugs. Of course the right thing to do was start with a Aeromotive / Glens performance fuel system and some new gaskets. Well that led into a blower and now a turbo. Keep in mind that it hasnt been ran at all. I just keep changing my mind about what I want to install.

The goal at this point is to have a streetable 600-700 rwhp car. Here is my progress so far:

The basics of the new fuel system. They are twin walbro 255lph pumps with a stock sleeper (-10 an)pickup. The lines are a single -10 feed and a -6 return. I am then running a aero boost indexing FPR and aero rails. I am also using a 100 micron filter before the pumps and a 10 micron filter after the pumps for fuel filtration.





The (now gone) first blower moch up with a YS trim vortech:



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Nice setup! If you run into issues with where you mounted the coils, you can do what I did and mount them on the firewall. I have no issues clearing the stock hood and if you notice, I am also using billet spark plug rails to keep my wires away from my exhaust.

If you are looking for ideas on the stereo I made a modular one so that when I am at the track I can easily pull them out. This is to also stop the flamers from badgering me. I converted my single din to Double Din as well :)




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Those are 12's BTW. If i muddied your thread let me know and I will edit.
I purchased the Double Din bezel from LRS: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-04338B/01-04-Mustang-A-C-And-Radio-Control-Bezel

Where the 3 holes are, you can get the filler plugs from LRS as well. I simply took my dremel to it and inserted my Moroso Switch Panel.

The only other modification I made was I cut off 2 small tab's on the center dash that prevented the center bezel from seating back. I then took a small steel plate that had lots of holes predrilled and used it as a template and spacer (the spacer was needed to drop the radio low enough to look like it belonged there) and I drilled the holes into the metal bar in the dash that goes across the middle. If you need a detailed pic of that I can try and take one tomorrow (it is late in germany). This looks really great and unique for our body styles.
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Also note in my Double Din picture I do not have the radio bezel installed. I was prefitting everything and this is not the final Picture. I will have the final pics of my interior tomorrow or thursday. If you are interested I can post an updated one.
Just to ask, what is wrong with the AEM? Is it that you cannot communicate with it? I have one too using a serial to USB converter...

Chad
Looking damn nice bro! I may have to steal the idea of oving my HD oil cooler (just like yours) and mount it the way you did as well as the PS cooler! On the Fuse block, was it easy to do?
Simply awesome! Very nice update! Is the shifter in the same location as the T-5?
Houston, we have a problem! Not quite sure what to do about the spark plug wire routing:



I am thinking that 2, 3 & 4 might need to go in between the downpipe and the header. Anyone have any similar setups with pics?
What I think you need to do is to #### the COP's so they are parallel with the VCs. This will force the Spark Plug wires to be closer to the VCs and away from the header. You will have to put 90* boots on the COP's to make it work though :mad:

My setup will be similar however my header is not that close to my VC.
Nice update! I also am ordering a T56 Magnum and can't wait to use it!
Hey Donovan, I have a question. I just received my D&D Kit and I was wondering:

1) What is the long black plastic tube on the transmission for?
2) Did you have to do anything special to install the reverse-lockout setup?
3) Did you have to do anything special for the speed sensor to hook up?
Thanks for the info Donovan. For the reverse lockout, I am going to go with a mechanical solution and put in a less stiff spring (not to much less but less). I found a link to the one to get from another site :)
Nice progress! I am curious, does your down pipe close to your ABS? I have the HP Performance version and the down pipe is 1/2" from he ABS wiring and melted it in 3 minutes. I ended up installing an ABS delete manafold and now I don't have to worry about it (I rarely drive this and I know how to pump my brakes, I also dont tailgate). Atleast I saved a good 10lbs from the front :)
I am not sure......Do you mean the crossover? I dont think I am anywhere close on the ABS stuff since it has all been moved basically outside of the fenders all around in the vacinity of the turbo......I may need to work on some of the DS wires though that are under the frame rail.
Doh! Yes I meant the crossover :) (still getting used to turbo terms).
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