Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well my clutch is gone to hell and my oil pan gasket is hanging out of my oil pan so I got a spec stage 1 clutch and an oil pan gasket. I will be doing this in a garage and with stands, not on a lift. Give me all the tips and tricks you can please! Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
You'll need to raise the engine to get the pan out, so plan on undoing the motor mount bolts and supporting it in some way.

Get a fel pro one piece pan gasket, clean both the oil pan and pan rails until they are completely clean. clean the timing cover and rear main cap grooves very well too, then set the new gasket on the pan, get a few bolts in, ensure th gasket is in place and snug all the bolts according to instructions, that is, in a spiral pattern in several steps. I tightened the small bolts to 10 lb/ft and the large bolts to 15.

As far as the clutch goes, you'll need to pull the trans and bell off. Easy enough, make sure you shove a yoke or something in the trans so it doesn't puke fluid all over.

It's all just pushing bolts basically. Good Luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks man. That sucks that I have to raise the engine up some for the gasket! Where is the easiest/safest place to jack it up from? I have a one piece gasket but its not fel pro :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,448 Posts
FYI - I was actually able to change my oil pan gasket without lifting the engine (when I did my clutch.) The pan will drop about an inch or so, so you do have just enough room to work. I'm not saying I really recommend this method - but it worked for me. Of course - if it's a true one-piece gasket, I guess you may not be able to get it in there.

One recommendation - may be a good time to go ahead and change your rear main seal while you've got it apart... Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
489 Posts
I put in a new oil pan gasket on my engine stand last night.

Be sure to get the one piece Felpro gasket. It is metal shimmed along the whole length, not just at the bolt holes. Looks like a winner to me, though havent run the engine yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Just make sure your jack is working properly when you use it to lift the engine up for the oil pan. There is nothing worse than finding out that the seal in your floor jack is not working properly when you've got your fingers around the bottom of the motor replacing the gasket. My jack decided to start dying on me while I was replacing my motor mounts. Dedpending on the condition of your motor and trans mounts, it is probably a good time to replace them also since they will have to be loosened up or taken off for the project also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips guys, I will go buy a RMS tonight. Tomorrow I will start working on it with a few corral buddies
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
I just went through this same process on my car. I learned a few things the hard way.

If you are going to use a floor jack to raise the engine, use a piece of wood between it and the oil pan. Remove the H-pipe. Unbolt the motormounts. Place the wood (I used about a 10" long piece of 2X4) between the jack and oil pan and slowly raise the engine. Make sure you check all connections and clearance in and around the engine as you are raising it. Once you get it up you can place some pieces of 2x4 between the motormounts and crossmember to support the engine while it is elevated. This method should afford you enough clearance to change the seal. Keep in mind you want to raise the engine enough to facilitate getting the gasket on around the oil pump with out dragging the gasket through the bottom of the pan. You want to keep the gasket clean and free from oil. This will ensure a good leak free seal.

This can be done before or after you drop the tranny. I recommend dropping the tranny first. This will allow you to raise the engin more if desired.

When installing the oil pan make sure you torque the pan bolts properly and use the pan reinforcements. I got in a hurry and forgot to put the reinforcement rails on. This resulted in breaking a bolt off in the block. I still have not got that sucker out.

When dropping the tranny it is a good idea to have a buddy help or rent a tranny jack. I rented a jack at the local rental shop for about $40 or $50 bucks. It was worth it since I was doing the work on my own.

While you have the pan dropped you may want to put a new oil pump on since you will have access to it. Just let me warn you that getting the new pump on and getting the pump drive shaft installed properly can be frustrating.

Just take your time be patient and by a Chilton or Haynes service manual from your local auto parts store. The manual is well worth the money. It will give you all of the torque specs as well as instructions for doing all the work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Oops, almost forgot. One other addition to tankers post is to loosen the bolts on the fan shroud before you start raising the engine, or you may start bending/breaking the blades of the fan as they squash up against the shroud.

Also, get some white paint and mark the driveshaft/rearend so you can reinstall / align the driveshaft the same way it came off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Thanks! I forgot to mention the fan shroud.

That's why you need to use the manual!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
hey : Mark Harrell

How many miles now do you have on the e7 head intake swap /?
What did you have for compression #? at how many miles..

What's stock compression for 86 >?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top