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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw a video of a WBO2 in action and the numbers were all over so it looked like it would be hard to acurately read...... I am looking at possibly getting an LM1, because I really need a WB, and I also want datalogging..... But I don't see how oyu can accurately see the true afr, if itmoves around so much. Are they all like this? When I was on the dyno (with thier WB) this seemed to happen till I hit WOT...
 

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Out50Stang said:
I saw a video of a WBO2 in action and the numbers were all over so it looked like it would be hard to acurately read...... I am looking at possibly getting an LM1, because I really need a WB, and I also want datalogging..... But I don't see how oyu can accurately see the true afr, if itmoves around so much. Are they all like this? When I was on the dyno (with thier WB) this seemed to happen till I hit WOT...
Here's some data I took with the LM-1:


You can also average the data over time to clean it up.
 

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I have an LM1 wideband and would like to know how to datalog the MAF voltage like you did, which wire can a splice into?
Thanks
 

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at idle and cruise the A/F will jump around a bit. but at WOT where the A/F is most important the readings will be steady.


Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cougar, I assume those spikes are due to shifting? Thanks for posting the pic, I always wanted to see how the LM1 outputs its logging.
 

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Out50Stang said:
Cougar, I assume those spikes are due to shifting? Thanks for posting the pic, I always wanted to see how the LM1 outputs its logging.
Yeah, during shifting the A/F spikes - I'm not sure why but I think it must be normal. I really love the data collection capabilities. I went to the track and hit the record button before each run and stopped recording at the end of the run. I was able to look at each run when I got home - though I could have brought a laptop to the track and looked at the data there.

When tuning, I saw some spikes in A/F during WOT and was able to trace them to noise on MAF signal. I rotated the MAF and saw less noise (and no A/F spikes!) and also lower A/F indicating I was seeing more of the air! Really cool.

2rods - I spliced into the MAF signal at the ECU using one of those ECU wiring diagrams (you could find this on the internet). You could also do it at the meter (I don't remember what color wire it is).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I heard the calibration of the LM1 is one reason why people don't like it. How difficult is that to do? Do you have to do it everytime you use it (or everytime it loses power)? Why does it need to be calibrated?
 

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It needs to be calibrated to the outside air and uses that as baseline. The calibration process seriously takes about one minute and you only have to do it the first time you hook everything up or if the LM1 meter looses its calibration which hasn't happened to me yet. It is not a big deal. My readings do jump around a lot during cruising and is fairly steady at idle and WOT. The reason it jumps around a lot is because its reading the air/fuel ratio which is constantly changing during cruising based off the factory o2s which cycle back and forth between rich/lean readings. This does make tuning part throttle a little more tricky if you have a PMS, twEECer, ect.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok thanks. I think so far the LM1 has my money. Of course i can't get one till I pay off my bills,which hopefully shouldn't be too long, because I can't wait any longer....

I'm only getting aroun 210miles to the tank, and my car blows black smoke under WOT, and it really smells.....
 

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cougar5.0, is it the innovate motorsports LM1 you have? If so that is the same one i've got and I just have one more question for you, what did you use for the cable to hook up for the MAF reading, does it need to be ordered extra or something?
Thanks
 

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2rods said:
cougar5.0, is it the innovate motorsports LM1 you have? If so that is the same one i've got and I just have one more question for you, what did you use for the cable to hook up for the MAF reading, does it need to be ordered extra or something?
Thanks
You can use this cable from Innovate that also includes RPM converter: Aux cable #2 - they also make a chaper one without the RPM converter but I do not see it on their web page? Or you could use a MAC serial extension cable and cut the female end off (like I did) and wire into ECU inputs Mac serial cable extension - the cable has MiniDIN8 connectors, but it works fine since the extra pin just fits into an opening in the MiniDIN7 socket. I just wired up everything permanently and ran the cables into the glove box. It's easy enough to unplug cables and bring LM-1 into house to collect data when needed, otherwise it sits hidden in glove box. I will be hooking up a remote display soon just for fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cougar5.O said:
I will be hooking up a remote display soon just for fun.
Of what kind? I know they sell an analog gauge, and are working on a digital one, but I don't really like the whole anyother gauge type thing. I want a small LCD display box, not a 2 1/16" kind of gauge... Is there any like this that are compatible with the LM1?
 

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Out50Stang said:
Of what kind? I know they sell an analog gauge, and are working on a digital one, but I don't really like the whole anyother gauge type thing. I want a small LCD display box, not a 2 1/16" kind of gauge... Is there any like this that are compatible with the LM1?
Well, I can get little LED voltmeters, just haven't figured the hook-up yet!
 
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