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Discussion Starter #1
My machinist just called and we were talking and he said that when he pulls the engine to put the new one in that he will have to pull my automatic trans out, to get the engine out. Is this true??? He said thats the only way to get to the torque converter bolts:confused: I didn't realize they had to do that:confused:

Anyone??
 

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Wouldn't that mean you'd have to pull the motor to pull the transmission?

Once they were out, what would you have access to that you couldn't with them in the car?

You sure you heard him right? Some shops find it easier to pulll the trannys with the motor.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no clue what the hell he was talking about:confused: I was on my way out the door when he called (my cell phone was recharging), so I don't think I heard him right. So you don't necessarily have to pull it then??? Do you know???
THanx,

Rob
 

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Ok, I just pulled two motors without the trans today (albeit they weren't 4.6's) And all we needed was about a 2-3" space to reach a wrench in there to unbolt the flywheel from the converter. It wasn't that hard, but it did take about 20min. of lying on the floor.

I bet he figures that'd be alot easier for him to pull it all out. Call him up and ask his reasoning for pulling the trans out.
 

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no you do not hav eto pull the tranny out mine stayed in the car. i had to pull it to put the motor back in because of the LT's it was much easier to bolt the starter and tranny on outside then stab the whole thing. There is a shield that you can take off and take the TQ bolts out that way it does take about 20 min but not that bad
 

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Ive pulled my motor twice and I have found that its easiest to drop the whole k-member with the motor and trans together then you can separate them on the ground and bolt the empty kmember back up and roll the car out. I have got it down to less than 5 hours to do the whole job complete start to finish.
 

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Rob,
I wtached the shop install your tc today, you do not have to pull the engine to get the tranny out, the 6 bolts can be gotten to on a lift after the 4 nuts holding the tc on are off. It is a pain to get the tc nuts off but patience and the right tools got them off. Did you get a chance to send the info on the tc yet?
Ed-
Maybe if you weren't polishing your unit you could have been there:eek: :eek: :eek:
Greg
 

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gregs 97 gt said:
Rob,
I wtached the shop install your tc today, you do not have to pull the engine to get the tranny out, the 6 bolts can be gotten to on a lift after the 4 nuts holding the tc on are off. It is a pain to get the tc nuts off but patience and the right tools got them off. Did you get a chance to send the info on the tc yet?
Ed-
Maybe if you weren't polishing your unit you could have been there:eek: :eek: :eek:
Greg
Sorry Rob, I was just trying to make you think about it a little. :)

Greg, I think you mean "my" car not "your" car! :confused: BTW, I was there for a while but as you mentioned I had to go "polish my unit" elsewhere for a while! :)

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh crap greg, I totally forgot. I will put the paper in the mail today. Damn, I can't believe I forgot. Promise it will got today or tomorrow. I'm going to call the shop tomorrow and tell them they don't necessarily have to take the tranny out. I'm not sure if he was implying I had to pay more, so I need to get that info to him:D
 

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What these guys are saying is true. I just became fed up with the charges I was hearing to pull my trans and decided to do it myself. I drove my car into work saturday and after and hour and a 1/2, I had the transmission under my bench and the PI T/C in the box ready to go back tomorrow. Once you remove the shield from the bottom of the trans(2 bolts), the 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate are easy to get to.
 

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Thanks Rob, hopefully there won't be any problems with the tc.
Ed-your car? If it was yours you would have put it oit for sale on J street with a sign that said free for the taking!!! Love those ARP head bolts on the 96-98, don't you?:mad: :evil:
 

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gregs 97 gt said:
Ed-your car? If it was yours you would have put it oit for sale on J street with a sign that said free for the taking!!! Love those ARP head bolts on the 96-98, don't you?:mad: :evil:
Don't push me Greg, I have better things to do than install head studs on a motor already installed in the car! :) That was more work than I wanted.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Greg, have you driven the car with the new TC in there??? IF you have its awesome isn't it:D It makes the shifts a little more sloppy, but its worth it.

Rob
 

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Rob,
Theyt were still installing it Sat when I left, I will find out today if it is done. I am waitng on a pro-m maf to come to finish the job and then check the a/f for the chip on the dyno.
Greg
 

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Hey guys, I've pulled several engines in my time and except for the old flat VW engines, always pulled the engine and trans together. If you don't pull the trans, how do you line up the input shaft without rsiking damage to the pilot bearing when you re-install the engine? Also, how do you line up the splines on the input shaft? And don't you risk damaging the input shaft with the weight of the engine? The VW wasn't an issue because you used a floor jack, not a hoist and tackle. Maybe I can learn a new trick.
 

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kyoshea said:
Ive pulled my motor twice and I have found that its easiest to drop the whole k-member with the motor and trans together then you can separate them on the ground and bolt the empty kmember back up and roll the car out. I have got it down to less than 5 hours to do the whole job complete start to finish.
Im pulling my motor tomorrow. I have the car in my driveway on jack stands. Im debating jacking it up higher to lower it all out with the LTs, motor, and trans, or pulling it with a hoist. I have never used a hoist before so dont really know whats involved. Any idea how high Id need to get the car to get it out the bottom?
 
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