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sure

the main take from the log

there is a time when tp_calc is at -23…………….this will establish a new ratch, zero point

NOW CLOSED THROTTLE, when working correctly will be at +23

hence why if you restart, you set a new ratch value, and all seems good

can you log JUST TPS?, nothing else?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
sure

the main take from the log

there is a time when tp_calc is at -23…………….this will establish a new ratch, zero point

NOW CLOSED THROTTLE, when working correctly will be at +23

hence why if you restart, you set a new ratch value, and all seems good

can you log JUST TPS?, nothing else?????
Right....I understand ratch now. Read up a bit on it last night....it sets a new low position to help compensate for minor fluctuations in sensor readings.
Not sure I can log anything different than what is already on the TP dashboard....or am I misunderstanding your question? I’d ask Decipha for clarification on that but I don’t want to bug him for a bit (hurricane damage). I’ll ask on the efi forum....someone there will likely know.
 

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TP volts

only pid to log as of now
 

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Right....I understand ratch now. Read up a bit on it last night....it sets a new low position to help compensate for minor fluctuations in sensor readings.
Not sure I can log anything different than what is already on the TP dashboard....or am I misunderstanding your question? I’d ask Decipha for clarification on that but I don’t want to bug him for a bit (hurricane damage). I’ll ask on the efi forum....someone there will likely know.
I'm unaware of any way to limit the data logging parameters in TPRT. Afaik, it's all our nothing. I know how to do it in BE, but I've never found it in TPRT.

For voltage drop, check your data log to see if your battery voltage is dropping shortly before the issue starts. If not, Google "how to perform a voltage drop test" just to verify. When i do it, i start the car and turn on every powered accessory, headlights, heater, defroster, you name it and then check for voltage drop between the +battery and fuse box main terminal (where i had voltage drop), between the -terminal on the battery and chassis and -terminal on the battery to the block. Anything more than 0.2v you have an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
TP volts

only pid to log as of now
Indy, Best I can offer on the logs is the TP_REL_CALC. Decipha says that is volts, but I’m pretty sure that it’s not what you’re asking for. Will measure with a meter.

Dwain, thanks for your recommendations too. Will get back on this after the weekend.
 

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that pid is fine, as that is what is telling you if throttle is closed or not

you just need to be aware when it happens to look at your pid in real time
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Will do. Based on the symptoms, do you have a hunch on which wire will be the culprit (26, 46, or 47)?
 

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most likely 47, but i dont like guessing
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
That’s my guess too, but will confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I won’t have too much time to play with this till Monday, but I had a few minutes tonight to tie in my 2 posi taps. I put one on the TPS side of the TPS connector, and the other on the eec side of the 10 pins. Did a quick continuity test to make sure I had the right wire, and did a quick voltage drop test with key on. .1v as you would expect.
Next time the weirdness happens, I’ll do a quick check of voltage at both spots as well as the voltage drop test. Hopefully that’ll narrow things down.
 

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you could have a voltage drop from sensor pin all the way to the ecm pin, including the pins themselves

you could very well have a pin fitment issue at the ecm
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
True, but I‘m pretty sure the issue will be at the 10 pins as they seem to be an issue for many, and I did have that intermittent fix when I wiggled them previously.
If my measurements don’t agree with me then I’ll expand the voltage drop test from end to end and whittle it down from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok, finally back at it today.
Before going out to do some logging, I thought I’d take a baseline measurement of the TPS. 1.23v . I happen to have a fresh Ford unit as a spare so I popped that in and got around 1.28v. Strange that I’m not getting a TPS out of range MIL.
Unhooked battery, reconnected and same results.
Now Decipha does have my idle set pretty high at 1024rpm and I have the throttle stop set appropriately to get my ISC DC to .15, so that is probably why I get the high number there. I’d think if it was contributing to my issue, that it would be doing it all the time rather than just intermittently.
Anyways going out now for a few drives.
 

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IAC DC of 0.15 is fully closed,

17.5% is closed
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So I should close the throttle stop a hair then?
I’ve been out driving all afternoon and I couldn’t get the problem to occur. Figures.
 

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i wouldnt touch anything at this point

just informing you of the dc of the IAC

could explain the higher TPS voltage at closed throttle
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I did end up closing it about an 1/8 turn. It now reads .24 at warm stable idle. And TPS voltage reads 1.16v now.
I was trying to get it around .25 before (per Decipha), but it would fluctuate between .15 and .45. I couldn’t dial it in between. I did end up having a bad IAC and changed it a while back.
 

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36% is where a typical stock engine runs
 

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problem solved?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
No, gawd dammit. I’ve been out a couple more times, a few hrs at a time, even out today for a nice 3 hr tour (where have I heard that before?)...cannot reproduce the problem. Probably moved the wires to a favourable position when I was mucking around with them putting the posi taps on. Wish it would do it so I could resolve this once and for all.
Will keep you posted.

Indy, would you mind a few questions off forum?
 
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