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Discussion Starter #1
I'm starting a HCI stock bottom end build and wanting to wring every last bit out of a 10:1 pump gas build. Car will be a street/strip combo. Shooting for low 11's.
 

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For that usage, I'd run a windage tray and higher capacity oil pan. For a purely street car I probably wouldn't bother.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any suggestions? Moroso? I'm using a new QA1 K member. There should be room.
 

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I have a 7 qrt Canton pan in my car with the QA1 K member. FIts fine. The canton pan I have is for the Dart Iron Eagle Block with the 4 bolt mains on all 5 main caps. It only has a crank scraper, but the pan is baffled really well. That pan is not for a stock block though. I only run 5 1/2 -6 qts in the pan to keep the level down away from any rotating parts.
 

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I've never seen the value of a windage tray...but they certainly won't hurt anything. A quote about a company that was pushing an aluminum "Windage Rod" back in the day. "Windage is B...S...."
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Dean Scheidt
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Woody put a deep 7 quart pan and windage tray on my 363 and it didn't add much incremental cost. It just makes sense to me if you have it apart anyway and especially if you need to buy a pan.
 

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A stock pan that is begging to leak, a Canton trademark
Ouch. Where are they prone to leaking? I have one from years ago, bought as barely used etc. It looks unhurt, needs paint, but where are they not fitted well? I'll be careful mocking it up etc, and Ultra Black is my always on every corner deal, but where else should it go, the whole curved section?
 

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Windage trays, crank scrapers, deep oil pans all are less about "horsepower" and more about longevity and oil control.

These items allow oil to be kept away from areas that cause aeration in oil at higher RPM. If you're drag racing, auto crossing, road coursing, you place additional demands on the oiling system. The g-forces the oil is subjected to can cause the pick-up to be uncovered or trying to take in aerated oil.

Long term (sometimes short term) this can be a bad thing, causing excessive bearing wear. I've used Windage trays and application specific pans, and what I noticed was more consistent oil pressure when hard driving.
 

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Oil control will add longevity and hp.

I purchased a brand new Canton drag pan (and windage tray) for my turbo build 10 years ago. Pan leaked from one of the welded seams from day one. Only leaked when oil got hot and leaked past a porous weld (weld looked good to the eye). Was really annoying as it would drip slightly and make a mess under the car and would leave 2 drops of oil when you parked it. I lived with it for many years because I didnt want to pull the engine. Last year when I was refreshing the engine I finally fixed the leaking weld. No more leaks!!!
I run the pro drag pan which has the passenger side of the pan rail completely cut off and replaced with sheet metal. No leaks at all from anywhere but the weld.
 

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I have had a Canton 7 qrt pan on my race engine for 5 years. It has never leaked a drop. Maybe I am the lucky one??? Lol
 

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I have had a Canton 7 qrt pan on my race engine for 5 years. It has never leaked a drop. Maybe I am the lucky one??? Lol
Go through 100s of them, the law of averages will catch you. They are almost always split where they are stamped at the horseshoes. They make fabricated ones but the stamped ones are just stock pans they cut off the stock sump and weld on whatever design they want for each chassis.
 

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Mine is for a Dart Iron Eagle block with the 5 mains being 4 bolt. Does not resemble any part of a stock pan. Maybe that is why it does not leak.
 
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