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Discussion Starter #1
I was hoping to run an 11.99 prior to going to a custom cam but it may not happen. Realistically with my mild combo will going to a custom cam help make my car that much quicker?

Current personal best is 12.10 @ 112.
Combo;
Stock short block 302
TFS 1 cam
Home ported GT40Y's with 1.7's
Air gap
Holley 650
1 5/8 long tube, 2.5" h-pipe, Herfurth mufflers dumped.
T5
4.30's
26x10 stiff wall slick
3275lbs w/driver

Given those limitations is picking up a couple tenths realistic with just the cam swap? New heads aren't in the equation and my driving is what it is lol.
 

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Can you take 50-100 lbs out of the car? Its about the cheapest thing to get you into the 11s
 

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your car is light but you're losing some power cause of the trans and rear-end

is the car tuned?

dyno?

share the time slip?

what rpm are you lanching at, shifting at, and going through the traps?

garbage in = garbage out
 

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Discussion Starter #4
your car is light but you're losing some power cause of the trans and rear-end

is the car tuned?

dyno?

share the time slip?

what rpm are you lanching at, shifting at, and going through the traps?

garbage in = garbage out
I tune the AFR and timing based on MPH at the track.

It dyno'd 318hp/318tq a couple years ago but I have since ported the heads and intake and changed mufflers. Picked up 3 tenths and 4 mph.

Launch and shift RPM has been all over for experimenting lol With the track sticky 6400 launch shift 6000 usually for best times. Traps is like 6200 or so.
Best 60's has been 1.65. I'm a little shy on power shifting this year after blowing up 3rd gear last season.
1065135
 

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Power shifting will certainly get you there, I power shifted the heck outta my T5s in my fox making similar power in a similar weight car. But that was when they were cheap and everywhere.

Maybe a carb spacer for some cheap track testing but doubt it will get you a tenth.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe a carb spacer for some cheap track testing but doubt it will get you a tenth.
I do have a 1" HVH 4 hole tapered spacer on it. I experimented with a 1" open, 1" open and 1" 4 hole on top, a 2" open, and the best was the 1" 4 hole.
 

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I think a cam should definitely get you into the 11s. Something that would allow you to take advantage of that gearing.
 
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I was hoping to run an 11.99 prior to going to a custom cam but it may not happen. Realistically with my mild combo will going to a custom cam help make my car that much quicker?

Current personal best is 12.10 @ 112.
Combo;
Stock short block 302
TFS 1 cam
Home ported GT40Y's with 1.7's
Air gap
Holley 650
1 5/8 long tube, 2.5" h-pipe, Herfurth mufflers dumped.
T5
4.30's
26x10 stiff wall slick
3275lbs w/driver

Given those limitations is picking up a couple tenths realistic with just the cam swap? New heads aren't in the equation and my driving is what it is lol.
112 MPH is good for an 11.79 with a VERY efficient chassis.

112 MPH is good for an 11.92 with a decent chassis.

Work the clutch and suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
112 MPH is good for an 11.79 with a VERY efficient chassis.

112 MPH is good for an 11.92 with a decent chassis.

Work the clutch and suspension.
Yeah I'm kind of at a loss for chassis/suspension without throwing $1000 worth of shocks at it. That's why I was leaning towards a cam to make more power for less $$

I have 90/10 comp eng shocks with moroso drag springs up front. Calvert Racing mono leafs, their Caltrac bars, and their 9 way single adjustable shocks. I leave the rear shocks on 9 to get the best 60's. I can soften them up and drop the air pressure to get cool wheelie pics on the bog lol Any suggestions I'm all ears.

I worked with Cale at Black Magic over the winter on a clutch for my budget. It definitely doesn't bog as much as it used to.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Can you take 50-100 lbs out of the car? Its about the cheapest thing to get you into the 11s
Not the direction I want to go. I have just about all I can out of it now. Keeping the seats so it looks like a street car. Most people think it weighs 4000 pounds.
 

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Yeah I'm kind of at a loss for chassis/suspension without throwing $1000 worth of shocks at it. That's why I was leaning towards a cam to make more power for less $$

I have 90/10 comp eng shocks with moroso drag springs up front. Calvert Racing mono leafs, their Caltrac bars, and their 9 way single adjustable shocks. I leave the rear shocks on 9 to get the best 60's. I can soften them up and drop the air pressure to get cool wheelie pics on the bog lol Any suggestions I'm all ears.

I worked with Cale at Black Magic over the winter on a clutch for my budget. It definitely doesn't bog as much as it used to.
Cale and Tinzy will be a huge asset to your clutch program.

Contact Paul Long at G-Force to see what they may have kicking around. Also Bob and Andrew Hanlon are another good source for parts.

You'll find the rear shock setting the most important piece of the puzzle.

It's not always horsepower that is required to get where you want to be. The Coyote Stocker has roughly 430 HP and has run 10 flat at 3115 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Contact Paul Long at G-Force to see what they may have kicking around. Also Bob and Andrew Hanlon are another good source for parts
It is a G-force T5. I blew up 3rd and 1st last year and worked with Paul over the winter and he hooked me up with the parts to fix it. Great service sand prices. I wouldn't mind it being a dog box tho so I can slam it lol

So maybe some double adjustable rear shocks first?
 

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It is a G-force T5. I blew up 3rd and 1st last year and worked with Paul over the winter and he hooked me up with the parts to fix it. Great service sand prices. I wouldn't mind it being a dog box tho so I can slam it lol
Get a face-plated GF101A ;)
So maybe some double adjustable rear shocks first?
I have both AFCO singles and Viking double adjustable rear shocks for my car. They both work well and are affordable. UPR in Florida sells Viking as a good price.

The Cobra has custom built Menscers double adjustable rears and recently had shock sensors installed on all four corners. You don't need to spend "that" kind of money for this project. ;)
 
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Some Viking double adjustable will be the next suspension purchase I make. Lots of people I know doing great things with them.
 

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I tune the AFR and timing based on MPH at the track.

It dyno'd 318hp/318tq a couple years ago but I have since ported the heads and intake and changed mufflers. Picked up 3 tenths and 4 mph.

Launch and shift RPM has been all over for experimenting lol With the track sticky 6400 launch shift 6000 usually for best times. Traps is like 6200 or so.
Best 60's has been 1.65. I'm a little shy on power shifting this year after blowing up 3rd gear last season.
are you launching of a 2-step, or tach?
if tach than get 2-step.

shifting of the tach or light?
if tach than get a light.

the above two things will give you consistency, which

you can then use to keep track of these "experiments" in launching and shifting.

once you're consistent you can read plugs instead of the mph as far as the power goes, although frankly those are great numbers for those heads and plenty to get you into 11s.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Speed shifting or power shifting (pedal floored)?
The 12.10 was not power shifting. I'll be power shifting the test and tunes in Oct now that my season is done and if it breaks now I have winter to fix it.

are you launching of a 2-step, or tach?
if tach than get 2-step.

shifting of the tach or light?
if tach than get a light.

the above two things will give you consistency, which

you can then use to keep track of these "experiments" in launching and shifting.

once you're consistent you can read plugs instead of the mph as far as the power goes, although frankly those are great numbers for those heads and plenty to get you into 11s.
I launch off a 2-step and use a shift light. I race in an index class off a .400 pro tree so they are a must.

Heres the 12.10 pass.. spun a little, came out sideways, didn't power shift, and at the very top of 4th it breaks up. I believe I was running lean as I ran out of gas on the very next pass LOL. But lets say driving stays the same.... I was thinking a cam would be the cheapest thing next to make a little power.

 

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Awesome car
 
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