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I am chasing a cooling problem and have a couple questions:

1. With the radiator cap removed and the car at operating temperature, shouldn't I be able to see a decent flow of coolant coming across the radiator fins/rows/whatever. I only see a slight trickle.

2. Anyone have a picture of the impeller on the back of a reverse rotation water pump? Want to verify what I have.

I overheated my motor a few weeks ago when I lost a Incon coolant hose. Had the heads decked 0.010" and have it all back together now.

The temperature justs keeps climbing according to my Autometer water temp and stock dash gauges. If I attempt to drive it, the gauge shoots up and I lose water from the overflow tank.

I've bled it at the EGR valve and heat cycled it a few times. After the thermostat opened, I got some sporadic gushes of water from the loosened EGR hose...never did get a steady stream.

I used a NAPA block tester kit to look for combustion gases in the radiator...stayed blue...okay.

I've got pure tap water in it right now, but know that there is something else going on...don't want to waste good antifreeze.

Timing is at 10 degrees; cylinder head gaskets are "right".

My upper radiator hose gets pretty hot but not really "hard". After the car gets past 190-200, the water level in the radiator surges...drops down and then gushes out...might just be from the water boiling.

I have a Stewart water pump and hi-flow stat. . . for about 2 months now. I just replaced the radiator cap (16 psi).

Any ideas appreciated...I'm very frustrated.

TIA,
Harold Jones
'88LX TT Coupe
 

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im having similar problems. Did you pressure test the system? My problem was the connection where the lower hose meets the water pump, but it wouldnt leak until I pressurized the system, then it came flowing out. I changed my lower hose and it was fine..... for a while. I think its my head gasket now. Did that NAPA tester thing test for carbon monoxide in the coolant like a hydrocarbon test? If so, how much was it cuz i think i need one. Thanks- Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BadAss88GT

I need to pressure test it again; will go borrow the kit from my local Autozone today. Before the teardown, I did that test and had major leakage from all four coolant ports on the lower intake/cylinder head interface.

I'm thinking I'll pull the thermostat out today and see if the flow across the radiator rows improves any. If that fails, I'll pull the Stewart water pump and put my NAPA reman back on. If that fails, I'll be looking for some C-4 on the black market.

Yep, I used the NAPA Block Tester kit (about $45) to look for hydrocarbon gas in the radiator. The fluid stays blue if all is okay, but is supposed to turn yellow if there are combustion gases in the radiator.

Good luck with yours. Let me know what you find out and I'll do the same.
 

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Is that what its called, the block tester kit? Do you have a part number? I called my local napa and they had no clue what i was talking about. Thanks- Dan
 

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BadAss88GT

I'll post the part number tonight...it is at home.

It is called a Block Test(er???) Kit, white box with blue lettering. Inside is a bottle of blue fluid, a vacuum bulb, and a glass cylinder with rubber stoppers on either end.

-HJ
 

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When I read the symptoms of your problem I looked for a key word in your initial post and found it......STEWART!

Yes, you should see a lot of flow through the radiator once the temperature passes the thermostat value.

I believe you have a similar problem to one I had a couple of months ago on my Stewart pump. Namely, the impeller fell off the shaft. Does your pump have a stamp on the front that says "Made in Poland"? Hmmmm......

I would bet a dollar to a donut that this is your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
#[email protected]!%$# Stewart Water Pump!!!

John91Coupe: It looks like you are right. I removed the t-stat and started it up...nothing moving in the radiator. I pulled the Stewart WP and the #$#@[email protected]* impeller blade is completely off the shaft.

This Stewart POS may turn out to be the most expensive WP I ever bought.

I haven't started it up after putting a NAPA reman on...letting gasket sealant set up overnight. I'll start it up tomorrow morning and let you all know.

BTW the NAPA Combustion Leak Block Tester is PN# BK 700-1006 for anyone still wanting to know.

Thanks for everyone's help...this saga just might be over alas.
 

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This Stewart POS may turn out to be the most expensive WP I ever bought.
Don't feel too bad, I went through the trouble of changing brand new copper head gaskets before I discovered it was the crappy pump.

I like glazed..... :D

Edit: I bet another donut that they say...."we've never had that happen before"......
 

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Here is the link to my Stewart Pump encounter :(

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=97207

I am putting the motor back together this week.
While is was apart AGAIN, I installed a new new of SpeedPro Plasma Moly rings, TFS Street Heat Intake, and 24lb FMS injectors :)

Money goes quick doesn't it!!!!

Good Luck.
Still not sure on my solution though. Although this new pump from STEWART has 3 tack welds holding the impellar to the shaft :)

Wonder what they have been thinking ?????

LOBE
~~~~~
 

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Still not sure on my solution though. Although this new pump from STEWART has 3 tack welds holding the impellar to the shaft
Sounds like they realize they have a problem and the welds are the remedy. Good luck, I hope they work for you.
 

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Impellar failure>>>

Mine failed well above the welds. It failed right where the impellar plate attaches to the WP shaft.

I called Stewart today and they will probably refund me the cost of the pump, since I don't plan on putting one back on. That was probably the most expensive (in the long run) water pump I'll ever run on my car. I figure I've spent about $700 and lots of "free" time getting mine back together...some of that was above-and-beyond the overheating damage though. What a PITA either way.

I'll keep my $30 NAPA pump.

-HJ
 
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