Ford Mustang Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
want to learn more about what is involved in converting TFI to EDIS while using stock EEC. going wasted spark, i know it will need dual 4-post coil packs, a cam syncro, and a 36-1 crank trigger. does the TFI ICM get replaced with a EDIS-8 module? it has a QuarterHorse, does any tuning need to be done? anything special i need to be aware of?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,161 Posts
In my opinion, you should start looking on EFIDynotuning.com. Decipha has the info listed on the site. i think the easiest way to do it is use a computer that is EDIS stock. There is a cross reference on that site that will tell you which ecu/strat to use.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tmoss and CDW6212R

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i have a 96 truck harmonic balancer that has the 4-point tone ring for misfire detection. i believe i talked with soemone that it can be swapped for the 36-1 Explorer ring or at least be made to work. all the aftermarekt replacement truck timing covers have the bosses for the crank sensor so thats not an issue. otherwise i have no issues swapping to Explorer 5.0 accessories, i already have them laying around and likethe compactness. i got coil packs n mount from an explorer. only thing i dont have is an EDIS-8 module yet

my computers are EEC-V but TFI and i dont know if they support EDIS. i think the closest computer i can use is the actual Explorer 5.0 but on the tuning forums, i dont think they can contorll my transmission correctly tho nobody knew exactly why. some issue controlling an E4OD trans with a 4R70W pcm

i started reading tmosses document but ill have to finish it when i get home
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,570 Posts
I asked about this a while back for my race car. It is mechanically injected (no electronic about it) like a sprint car or top fuel car is. Distributor. I entertained the idea of going to EDIS or even COP but the only option is megajolt, which isn't really a great option. (1) I can't find anyone that actually sells the product other than overseas, and (2) it still requires a TPS or MAP, neither of which in my case would be viable since I have 4" of vacuum at idle (1400rpm) and no provisions whatsoever for a tps. So I'll stick with an old school distributor. Simple, effective, works fine, very easy to mess with (not that I have to do anything to it, ever)....I just keep wondering if there is any performance benefit with EDIS, in my case. 800hp n/a 438"w runs on straight methanol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
idk know a whole lot about mechanical FI or serious drag builds. on something like that where its either WOT or idle, wouldn't it be better to run fixed timing with no advance? my understanding of EDIS is that without a signal from the computer, it will run fixed base timing. with a bracket to adjsut the crank trigger position you can keep it fixed at timing where you want it. i believe that EDIS should handle higher rpms better. but you would know alot more than me. id imagine you can rig some sort of basic TPS sensor somehow if you were creative jsut to use the system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,570 Posts
Well yes and no

First, everyone's stuff is different. Mine is different than everyone else's. Obviously!

Mine IS more or less locked (33 deg), BUT I found years ago that at cranking speed, an alcohol engine is going to be lean. At the compression ratio and pressure that I have, a lean mixture at cranking speed with 33 degrees of timing results in broken bellhousings, broken flexplates, broken starters, it's hard on the crank, block, it's hard on everything. YES I would spin the motor before hitting the ignition every single time. Sometimes it'd start. Sometimes it would break parts. I fought this for years. One afternoon I said I'm gonna do something about this and put an MSD starter saver on it (retards timing at cranking speed only). Not much different, cranked a little easier but every once in a while, it'd bust stuff. I used to run a little nitro (not nitrous) and it popped one night at the track... So back to square one. I ordereded a msd recurve kit. They sent it wrong. I got an HEI recurve kit for a GM engine. But I got to looking and the springs were really really small and light. What? IDEA!! I put the lightest springs in the kit, in my 85805 MSD 351w billet distributor and went to town. It cranks over at 0 deg, but is 33 deg all in by 800 rpm. It idles at about 1400 so there you go. problem solved. For tickling the fuel with pop (heads up nights), I'd run the timing up and I'd also have to change the fuel pump and nozzle jets. I had a tuneup for 40% which worked pretty good but there is NO hiding it not even at 10%. I am not messing with that stuff anymore, too old, it's too expensive to "play" with, and frankly too dangerous as I am aging and I forget stuff. Nitro reminds you that you forget things and sometimes not in a good way.

the problem with a starter saver is this. The retard is done through the box. If you are locked at, say 35 degrees timing, the rotor is somehwere between two of the posts on the cap. It's close enough to two of them that the electric current is going to take whatever the path of least resistance is, which might be the "next" cylinder, or it might be the last one. "Usually" it's the last one (retard) but every once in a while, it will arc across to the advanced one, and then you have problems. Some say that's a distributor problem. But it doesn't explain why many of my friends and family have also had this issue and went back to use of mechanical advance to solve it (w/o the starter saver).

Secondly. Something I have run into. If I advance the timing on my car up to say around 37 degrees, it will 60 foot a few hundredths better but it will also dump ET and especially MPH at the finish line. So if there was a way to pull, say, 4 or 5 degrees out of it after, say, 6500 RPM, it would show up on the timeslip with better ET, better 60' and good mph. The converter is 6000 stall speed, and I shift at 7700, with a fallback to 6600 or so, so once out of the hole, it wouldn't really ever run back to 37 or whatever degrees-it'd pull the 5 degrees or so and stay there. That is easy to do with electronic control of spark timing, which I don't currently have (using an old 6AL with 85805 distributor). But in my case, changing the entire ignition system up to do this just isn't feasible. I can set it around 32 or 33 degrees and it's fine for 99% of what I am doing. I just thought about doing it and every time I entertain the thought, I say forget it--too expensive for a few hundredths. But if there were any consistency gains, I'm all ears....and there very well could be given the fact that most of the EDIS stuff is crank triggered, and that in itself eliminates a lot of inaccuracies in chain slop, gear slop, shaft flex, etc. Switching to a "crank trigger" would not solve the issue as it still uses a distributor and the cost to do this "may" get close to going EDIS if I can figure out a way to control/program it with an effective, budget minded deal. MSD has a whole kit but at $1500 I haven't really considered it.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top