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Discussion Starter #1
Got my bullit suspension all over the living room floor and my haynes manuel, trying to make sense of it all. These have to be the most awkward instructions I have ever read. Some one tell me its not as hard and confuseing as thse instructions sound. Any way my question is do I need to rent a tie rod end puller? The manuel makes it sound like I do, when it says " disconnect the tie -rod end from the steering knuckle' Then it says 'SEE SECTION 15" Which is the section on tie-rod removal, it says to disconnect the tie-rod end from spindle.??? I have never done any suspension stuff before, any pointers on the install? any other special tools or proceedures?
thanks
Jon
 

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You got instructions...? Mine didn't.

Many options for doing this,

Option #1
I did it a couple of weeks ago and did not remove my tie rod ends. Instead, I rented a spring compressor from pep boys. Once you have the strut out of the way, put the spring compressor on, won't take much and remove the spring. You will have to compress the new one far enough that you can turn it to line it up the end of the spring with the indention in the a-arm.

Option #2
I have heard others did it by removing the bolts in the a-arm and then using 2 jack stands to put it back once the spring is in.

Once you take the old out, it will be a little more obvious. The only instructions I got were the ones that came with my MM CC's, they were a lot of help.

SN95GT50
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Actually mine came without instructions as well. Just going off the standard spring and shock intallation instructions in my Haynes manuel.
Your option #1 sounds the best. How long did it take you to complete?. Do you think the CC plates are really needed? Sure is alot of extra bits and pieces with my bullit suspension did you use everything?
thanks
jon
 

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I would say 5-6 hours front, maybe 1-2 rear. This is the first time I had done this and I tend to work slow. Get some liquid wrench for the bottom shock and strut bolts.

I never tried without the CC's, but it was nice to get it aligned to specs for Caster and Camber and know it was right. I bought Maximum Motorsport CC's from Houston Performance for $169.

SN95GT50
 

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When I did mine earlier this year, I kinda did it the "wrong" way. I unbolted the old strut and left the A arm bolts in place. Used a floor jack under the A arm and released the pressure slowly to release the spring pressure. This is not the recommeded way by any means, but I did secure the spring just in case it decided to want to fly out.

I too did not remove the tie rod ends just moved the A-arm down and went from there. Install was the same, got the spring in place and used the floorjack to compress. I know, not the safest, but that is what I did. It also helps if you can use air tools for not only the bottom strut bolts but the top as well.

One another note, I did not replace the spring perch that was supplied. I used the orginal, and I did not use CC plates or did I need to. Took it to alignment shop and it was within specs without having to replace mine. I did however, just replace the old bushing etc.

Total front and back took me about 4 hours, but I think having the air tools helps a lot.

Good luck and hope it works out for you

Later
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will probably be back on here asking questions once I tear into it. So, thanks for the help so far.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just wondering while I have everything apart, how much harder is it to go on and replace the tie-rod ends? Any special tools needed? Getting a little click when turning wheel figured it wouldnt hurt to replace ends since its got 84k miles on it.
thanks -jon
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can see how much I know about suspension components. But, what is involved with changing the the ball joints out? The tie-rods probably wouldnt make noise if they where going out would they?
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Discussion Starter #10
ttt
 
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