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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering if anyone is interested in seeing a how-to on successfully installing Aerospace Components ("AC") front and rear street disc kits, along with a 5-lug conversion on my Fox Body. This is not the "standard" conversion. It is a hybrid , because the brakes are not Ford. I had a good bit of trouble even getting the right parts from "AC". Apparently, this has not been done too much for a street application, which includes parking brakes on the rear wheels. Turned out great, but was not easy. I bought over $300 of parts I did not use - learned as I went along, re: what worked with what. Also, "AC" provides really terrible instructions, so I used a combination of instructions from "AC", Ford Racing, Latemodel Restoration, and a couple of sources on the Web. None were complete or totally correct for this project. Anyway, I'm attaching a few shots of the outcome. If I get enough interest, I'll put together a series of posts on the details.
Before:
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After:
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Car looks awesome! Nice job. Love the headlights too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
More info

Here's more details on the project. First, I am thoroughly happy with the results. Came out better than I expected. The brakes are awesome. Didn't lose parking brake capability. No tire rubbing. Love the height (front is over an inch higher than before and that's good, 'cause it was too low before. Rear height is about the same.

First, I bought the Aerospace Component (AC) 4-Piston Pro Street Front and Rear 5-lug kits from "Art" at [email protected]. He is on Corral. Do a search. He will get you the best price possible. You can also buy directly from Aerospace Components and through Summit Racing. I suggest you talk to Aerospace, first. That way, you will get exactly what you need.

A few more morsels of info:
I decided to change the front spindles to SN95. They set the wheel out about 3/16" more, are stronger spindles and easy to maintain vs. the stock 79-93 spindles. This is an important decision and make a difference on which front kit you buy from AC. The main reason I went to SN95 spindles is because I felt that the stock spindles would be much weaker and the mounting details of the adapter plates for the calipers appeared to be a very weak setup.

I went with Moser 5-lug 28-spline stock-length axles, meaning the new axles are the same length as the original 4-lug axles. This decision is also important, as it makes a difference regarding wheel set-back and resulting clearance for the rear disc brake setup and controls whether the tires stick out from the fender flares. Geometry estimates are crucial here and I won't provide my calculations, because my car is unique and may not match yours, in terms of overall setup. You're going to have to make your own measurements and study what you need carefully.

I wanted to continue to have a "streetable" car, meaning the original came with a parking brake and I wanted to keep that feature. You may not care. If you don't, you will not only save several hundred dollars, but also some installation time.

Regarding brake master cylinder (MC), everybody will tell you to upgrade from the stock MC. They are right. The question is which one to buy.. Well, AC suggests getting one with a minimum bore of 1 1/8". That rules out the '93 Cobra MC. Well, not really. If your booster is not the original (healthy) and you have good vacuum, you can use the '93 Cobra MC (1.00" bore). I will testify to it!

Now, the parts list I used. Note that I bought many parts I ended up not using, because nobody could tell me exactly how to make an AC brake upgrade work in a Fox Body Mustang, especially while retaining the parking brake!

AC Brake kits: $1,518.10 during a 15% off sale. So, add 15% to this, if you aren't lucky. (free shipping)
Front #AC-251VRDSP 94-04 Mustang, front street, 5-lug, 2 piece rotor (this kit includes instructions (not great quality), nickle-plated slotted and cross-drilled 2-plane rotors, aluminum "hat" or hubs, assembled aluminum 4-piston calipers, adapter bracket and hardware. You can specify an anodized color for the calipers, if you don't want bare aluminum.
Rear #548VRPB1 8.8" Ford, 5- lug axle, for 1/2" studs, slotted and cross-drilled zinc-plated one piece rotors. If you are abandoning the parking brake, DO NOT, repeat, DO NOT buy this rear kit. Instead, call AC customer service and get the kit number for your car.

Front Replacement Parking Brake Cable: $35.99 (CJ Pony Parts)
This is a genuine Ford part. You will need this, in order to use the parking brake with the rear AC brake kit. LRS doesn't stock this.

Lokar Floor Parking Brake Rear Cable Kit: $189.95 (Summit Racing #EC-81FHT)
Again, you can avoid this cost, if you are abandoning the parking brake. I will tell you what parts you will use out of this kit, later.

Inverted Flare fittings (four), 3/16" Tube to 1/8" Male NPT Male Connector: $16.00
You must buy this exact fitting, to use with the rear calipers (to existing hard brake lines) and to connect the adjustable proportioning valve to the hard tubing under the hood. Plain brass ones can be found at Pep Boys and O'Reilly's. At Pep Boys, the brand is Brass-Tite and the part number is 43225. If you want chrome ones, buy from Summit Racing (Part # GARJ9040).

Rear Axle Bearings: $24.99 from Latemodel Restoration (LRS)
Don't skip this! I'm an engineer. Take my word for it. When you install new axles, install new bearings. Period. LRS #AK-1563K

Rear Axles: $259.99 (LRS)
Moser 5-lug, 28 spline, stock 79-93 length. LRS stock # MOS-A882851SN
They do not come with studs. Buy separately.

Braided stainless front brake line hoses: $84.95 (Aerospace Components)
Buy this kit from Summit Racing or directly from AC. Do not buy anything that says "Fits Mustang bla-bla", because they won't fit the AC setup.

Adjustable Proportioning Valve: $54.99 from LRS. LRS #M2450D (Brand: Ford Racing)
Any adjustable proportioning valve will work, so long as you use the right adapter fittings for the tubing.

Plug for Ford Factory Proportioning Valve: $18.99 (LRS)
This is necessary, but the price is stupid high. Can't find anywhere else but LRS - maybe you can....
You need to render this valve useless by opening it, removing the plunger, valve and spring, then sealing it up with this expensive pipe plug. More later.

'93 Mustang Cobra Master Cylinder: $99.99 (LRS)
I already said this works, so buy it. Anything more expensive is a waste of $.

Adapter kit (curly tubing) between Factory Proportioning Valve & MC: Maximum Motorsports (MM) $39.99
More on this very cool time-saving kit later.

'96-'04 Mustang GT Front Spindle and Hubs (refurbished or bought through Ebay, this forum or another source, like a junk yard) : LRS: $399.99 #LRS-3105APR

'79-04 Rear Wheel Studs, 1/2" dia. (Qty. = 10 or 2 sets of 5): 2 x $11.99 = $24.98 total. #LRS-1107A

Rear Parking Brake Cable Retainers: $39.99 #LRS-2530PR
These will keep the parking brake cables from touching the inside of the tires. This was not needed when the brakes in the rear were drum style!

Buy some very cool 17" (and ONLY 17") wheels and good tires. Mine are:

Wheels: 17" Black Chrome FR500 from Wheel Replicas: $600
Tires: $ $751.23 balanced and installed at home
Rear: BFG Sport Comp 275/40ZR17
Front: BFG Sport Comp 255/40ZR17

Total cost including wheels and tires: $4,127.14

Bear brake setup would have been $8,000+
Wilwood brake setup would have been $6,800+

Next time, I will start providing the steps for installation, with pics.
In the meantime, enjoy this:
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what with one of the AC guys being here on corral and that they themselves couldnt tell you what to use...I'm surprised they dont comment in here and use this thread to help put together a more complete brake kit now that its been done.
 

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"Rear Parking Brake Cable Retainers: $39.99 #LRS-2530PR
These will keep the parking brake cables from touching the inside of the tires. This was not needed when the brakes in the rear were drum style!"


You can grab those off ANY newer mustang, pre 05, at the junkyard. I may be lazy, but $40 vs $5(what they charged me) is a no brainer. Plus I grabbed a couple extra of the c-clips that hold the e-brake cable to the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Part 2 - Getting things organized

Oh, it was like Christmas back in April, 2013.
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Parts, parts, parts!!
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The refurbished '95 spindles I bought from a guy on Corral.


Gotta buy some red threadlocker and a can of acetone, to clean all the bolts you'll be re-using
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I know this will get your attention. There's nothing like these 4-piston billet aluminum near-polished calipers - especially for the price.
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To remove the old drum brakes, you'll need to remove the rear axles. It's not that hard to do. Jack up the car, as high as you comfortably can. Remove the differential cover by removing the 10 bolts and slowly prying open the cover. Be sure you have a catch pan under the diff. Put the tranny in neutral and rotate the axles, until you remove the keeper bolt, then the pin. Next, rotate the axles again, so you can fetch out the clips (one for each axle) with a magnet.
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There are good detailed instructions on this all over the internet, including the Muscle Mustangs magazine site and on You Tube. You can also download the old Ford Racing instructions, for their disc conversion (which they don't sell anymore). They tell you in there how to remove the axles.

Now, you can unbolt the drum brake assemblies, held onto the axle with 4 bolts per side. Now, you can remove the axle bearings. You'll need a slide hammer and a bearing puller to go with it. You can borrow these tools from O'Reilly's (Cost afrer returning them = zero!).
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Now, you are ready to install the new axle bearings.
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Borrow a bearing install kit from O'Reilly's.
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That's all for now. Getting late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Use it or ignore it - IDC (I don't care)

I know you mean well and don't intend to insult or offend anyone. The reason I was offering this how-to, is to help with the odd steps and parts issues, not with the standard stuff for every other 5-lug Fox conversion.

I'll, therefore, make a revision to the future content in this series. I'll only mention the unique steps and parts issues, related to the Aerospace conversion. So, thanks! It will be less effort for me.:joy:


[quote/]You can grab those off ANY newer mustang, pre 05, at the junkyard. I may be lazy, but $40 vs $5(what they charged me) is a no brainer. Plus I grabbed a couple extra of the c-clips that hold the e-brake cable to the caliper.[/quote]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Installation Begins - the Rear

Started with the rear first. After removing the axles and the old bearings, and installing new bearings and seals, install the 5-lug axles, per instructions you find elsewhere on this forum. The rear Mustang street brakes include the parking brake hub, which also doubles as the mounting plate. It has four holes, that line up with the plate that's welded to the ends of the axle housing.
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You will use the existing mounting bolts, so be sure to clean them well and use red threadlocker.

Hold the disc onto the hub with an OEM nut that will go all the way to the hilt of one stud bolt. This will help you to center the caliper later. Bolt the caliper to the bracket, using the supplied bolts. They are silver in color and have holes drilled through the heads to enable wiring up the bolts with stainless aircraft wire, so they won't come loose. If you look closely, you'll see the twisted aircraft wire.
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Bolt on the caliper (no threadlock, yet!) to check for centering of the caliper to the disc. Loosely install the pads. If needed, the kit comes with plenty of thin spacers to do this. I used 2 spacers per bolt. Your's could be different..

Hooking up the brake lines in the rear to the calipers is simple. Remove the shock and use a hand tubing bender to gently get the fitting to point straight, into the caliper tapped hole for the inlet. Don't put the caliper on upside down. The vent/bleed bolt is always above the inlet. Note the aftermarket rubber-lined tube clamp, bolted to the axle housing. You will need to install one of the brass 3/16" Tube-to-1/8" Male NPT Male Connectors, so that it connects correctly to the caliper.
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Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Go back and remove the caliper mounting bolts, apply threadlocker, and re-install to the torque stated in the Aerospace instructions. Re-assemble the Diff and install your fluids. You're done in the rear.:joy:
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Next time, I'll cover the front brake installation, which is the "scariest"!:barf:
 

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Hey oldguywithan88. I'm an old guy with an 89 Vert. In the process of deciding upgrades to my car which other than a few goodies like eibach springs and kyb adjbshocks is oem.

I've been looking at brake kits and was thinking Wilwood but this is a really nice direction you went.

Those fr500 rims look great!

What is the height of your wheel well now?

And oh ya. That undercarriage looks incredible...

Please be as detailed as you want it's fun reading through complete threads
 

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Old Guy,:leghump:
Your Fox is Fantastic. I could eat dinner off your chassie!
You certainly chose a different route, and not an easy one.
It seems your Brake upgrade is leaning to Road Race Track events?
Beautiful Car and a Beautiful Job !
Keep Posting,

Thanks,
Scott
 

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I was looking over your list. The rotors on Summit AC251VRDSP. It states they are 11 3/8 diameter is that what you have diameter wise? I like how they fit in the 17" fr500 rim.
 

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oldguywithan88..

did you swap the booster for a cobra unit? I'm in the middle of my rear disc conversion.I will be getting the cobra MC but does it come down to personal preference with brake feel reguarding the booster??I have 03 GT front/rear brakes on my 93.
sweet car BTW
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
oldguywithan88..

did you swap the booster for a cobra unit? I'm in the middle of my rear disc conversion.I will be getting the cobra MC but does it come down to personal preference with brake feel reguarding the booster??I have 03 GT front/rear brakes on my 93.
sweet car BTW
Please read my second post, paragraph six. If you have a fairly new booster, the Cobra MC is enough. Make sure the push rod is adjusted correctly. Don't guess.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I was looking over your list. The rotors on Summit AC251VRDSP. It states they are 11 3/8 diameter is that what you have diameter wise? I like how they fit in the 17" fr500 rim.
Correct. Yes, the fit is great on 17" FR500 wheels. Will fit well on any 17" wheel.


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Nice craftsmanship. And anyone who gets the little front tires off of a street car makes the streets safer for everyone!
 
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