Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I removed the EGR off completely not just the tube. I fabricated a delete plate for the intake, and caped the header. I pulled the sensor out of the egr and left it attached to the harness, yanking out the rest of the harware and cut the vacuum off. Now my car ain't running to hot and the check engine light is on. Does anyone know if I have to reattach the damn egr housing back on or am i missing something else thats killin my idle. Help me out if anyone has any ideas. I removed the smog pump and egr and now the car ain't performing up to par. Any info would be helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
I took a diagnostic specialist course and from what I remember from it, if the computer thinks the EGR is working improperly, it will affect the idle. The car will probably run like crap as long as it thinks the EGR is bad. The computer (OBD II) tells the EEC that something is wrong and the EEC does what it feels is right to solve the problem. That is why most cars react differently to when offroad H-pipes and whatever are put on. Simple solution: Go to AutoZone and get the free diagnostic test (or go to the dealership and they'll do it for like $75) and then get them to tell you what the code is and erase it. Make sure it is an EGR code or something related. This will at least pinpoint the problem and give you a starting point.

I X L
95 Cobra hardtop convertible
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
U can always put it back on, and fix the problem..
I had the same problem when i removed mine.
Only way u can properly remove it, is to delete the EGR function from the computer, with a tuner. otherwise, put it back on, or if u just have to.. cap it off with a penny.. It helps cool off the intake temps. without it u are alot more likely to start getting some detonation..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
I did the same thing, and it ran like ass, so I made a blockoff plate, and put it between the EGR and manifold. I capped the EGR and header, and left it plugged in... still had problems, reattached the vacuum and it was fine. I think the computer has to see the diaphram move via vacuum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
The fix is very simple. I did this and it worked. Plug the header, and remove the tub from the EGR sensor. Put the sensor back in place and plug it back in. Don't put the vacuum tub back on. The EGR stays shut unless there is something going through it. With it still pluged in the computer thinks everything is fine. Try it, It worked for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
I don't know about that. The EGR is computer controlled and vacuum operated. Its not open at idle, or wot for sure, exaust gasses dont't just freely flow through it, they're somewhat metered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
you are right about it being vacuum operated. If you don't hood the vacuum up then it won't open. This is what I've been told, and it seems to work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
I still have the egr pluged in on my car, but everything is capped off. I have not had any idle problems or a check engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Egr still suckin

When I took the EGR off, I took everything off. I pulled the sensor out of the EGR housing and left it plugged into the harness and set it on the back of the engine. The vacuum line is still hooked up to a vacuum source on the intake, and both ends of the tube are blocked off, a cap on the header, and a block off plate on the intake. Still no improvement. I had modified the stock MAF(gutted post), so I put the original housing back in and still no difference. Rough ass idle. Car runs fine on the highway and on the streets but as soon as i slow down or stop the idle starts to fluctuate and then the car dies. This sucks ****. I spoke with people at Fordspeed and other performance dealers, and some mentioned just burning a chip and deleteing the egr function from memory and redoing the whole cpu program.?? All this bull**** for an egr that you can remove on an 87-93with no problems, but you get a hit or miss chance of being ok with the 94-95 computers. Way to go FORD!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Please bear with a naive question here, I am in the process of trying to delete this mess as well from my '91. For the life of me, I cannot find an external source of exhaust to be introduced into the intake. Where does it come from? I have deleted the smog gizmo and capped the tubes out of the rear of the heads (space prohibited plugging). I have been told that temps are high enough to melt the t.b. without using coolant in the spacer plate (due to exhaust gas), but is this model-specific? Confused...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
let me say that I have ran with egr and with out egr .it runs better with the egr was able to get more timing and better response.
. this is what I did , made a 1/2" egr gasket out of Micarta. and wrapped the egr tube with koawool then put steel braid over it . also reduced the the hole size in the egr gasket by 25% . intake and Tb still feel cool and there is very little heat being generated next to the spark plug wires. the small ammount of gases going int the intake now just allows me to have more control over timing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
I am still amazed after all these years that people think they will gain something by removing EGR. EGR is only used during part throttle curise to cool the combustion temps, this controls part throttle detonation and reduces the formation of NOX and can reduce fuel consumption. These are the 3 pros to having EGR.
I have yet to find a con to having it there other than looks and it was too hard for me to hook back up, both in my opinion lame excuses for leaving it off.
Of course it is your car do what you will and I am only one voice against the many that think you will get something.

Dwayne
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
the reason I took mine off was because I put a cam with 585 / 605 lift. So I had to get taller valve covers, so I had to go with a 1" spacer on the upper intake so the tub wasn't long enough on the egr so I just cut it off. My car still runs fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
My Reasons

I removed it because of appearance, not performance. It looks nasty. My motor is spotless and chromed out, yet I had a nasty rusted part hanging next to a chrome throttle bracket and other clean parts.
On that note, I cut the wires to the harness and relocated the EGR piece to the trunk and then reattached the harness, capped the tube with a penny, ran a vaccum line underneath the car to it, and the car runs fine now. No check engine, no rough idle. Just like someone had mentioned, the EGR sensor just needs to be in contact with the diaphram in the EGR housing. It has no air supply running to it or through it other than vacuum, but everything is fixed. Very touchy computers. Thanks for the everyones input. It helps having other people out there doing similar things to their cars, and already having trouble shot the same kinds of problems.:cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,823 Posts
46GTSblown said:
I am still amazed after all these years that people think they will gain something by removing EGR. EGR is only used during part throttle curise to cool the combustion temps, this controls part throttle detonation and reduces the formation of NOX and can reduce fuel consumption. These are the 3 pros to having EGR.
I have yet to find a con to having it there other than looks and it was too hard for me to hook back up, both in my opinion lame excuses for leaving it off.
Of course it is your car do what you will and I am only one voice against the many that think you will get something.

Dwayne
Finally, someone that understands that all that nickel and dime stuff isn't worth the hassle.
See ya. Michael Plummer
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top