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I just put cold air intake on my car and it seems like it hurt it more than anything! Before I just had the stock tubing with a 9 inch cone filter on the end and it seemed to work better as cold air b/c it didn't heat up as much. Should I ditch the cold air and go back to what I had???? Thanks
 

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There shouldn't be any reason why CAI is hurting your performance unless you have choked the air intake in some way with the CAI kit. What kit did you get btw?
 

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Check out this test of cold air set up vs. the stock set up (which is also cold air) --- http://66.96.130.106/archives/2002/03/coldair/

The WORST thing you can do is to hang a cone filter off the end of the maf under the hood where it's injesting warm under-hood air. You lose approximately 1% HP for every 10F degree increase in intake air temp. Perhaps that's why you changed it. I don't understand your statement about "because it didn't heat up as much". Are you talking about metal tubing from the cold air kit absorbing under-hood heat vs. the rubber/plastic stock tubing? I went to my local hardware store and bought some rock-wool 1" wide roll of insulation (about 1/8" thick) and some high-temp stretchable black rubber tape (not vinyl electrical tape) and insulated the metal parts of mine to limit that heat sink from occurring.

As you'll see in the link - a set up that works just as well as the CAI set up is to remove the silencer and put a flat panel K&N in the stock box. And that will be better than hanging an unshielded K&N cone under the hood.
 

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Yea by the comment I made is b/c while running it the tubing heats up to at leat a 100 degrees where the plastic never really even got hot! So you are saying just put sumthing over the tubing?
 

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The plastic does get just as hot - it just takes longer to do it (and longer to cool off) and it doesn't transfer heat as readily as the metal (that's why it takes longer to heat up) so it doesn't feel as warm to the touch. Of course it also doesn't transfer as much heat to the air passing through it which is what you're describing as the problem. I'm saying I came up with a way to insulate my metal tubing from the heat.
 

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Michael Yount said:
Check out this test of cold air set up vs. the stock set up (which is also cold air) --- http://66.96.130.106/archives/2002/03/coldair/

The WORST thing you can do is to hang a cone filter off the end of the maf under the hood where it's injesting warm under-hood air. You lose approximately 1% HP for every 10F degree increase in intake air temp. Perhaps that's why you changed it. I don't understand your statement about "because it didn't heat up as much". Are you talking about metal tubing from the cold air kit absorbing under-hood heat vs. the rubber/plastic stock tubing? I went to my local hardware store and bought some rock-wool 1" wide roll of insulation (about 1/8" thick) and some high-temp stretchable black rubber tape (not vinyl electrical tape) and insulated the metal parts of mine to limit that heat sink from occurring.

As you'll see in the link - a set up that works just as well as the CAI set up is to remove the silencer and put a flat panel K&N in the stock box. And that will be better than hanging an unshielded K&N cone under the hood.

I did the same thing as you. Only diff was I picked up a sheet of Cool-It thermo tec heat wrap and wrapped my entire air tube. made a big diff. The tube now is just luke warm even in tripple digit weather. before, it would burn your fingers after a 15 min drive. Total cost was 15$.

Take care
 

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The ceramic coating will look great, but will cost a good bit more and I don't think it will provide near the insulating protection that the other methods will. It's very helpful at reducing the amount of heat a hot object (like a header) radiates to other objects under the hood, but for the intake pipe issue you've got radiation and convection. The ceramic may keep it from absorbing radiant heat from the engine compartment, but it won't do much to prevent it from heating up as 180 degree air blows over it coming off the radiator and engine.
 

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With an average CAI like the MAC kit in real world conditions, how much hotter does the air become from the time it enters the air filter to the time it reaches the throttle body? How much does the heat soak effect the air charge? Is it really that significant?
 

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I doubt that anyone has measured. If you read the test in the link I posted above, there was no measurable difference in performance between the Moroso cold air kit tested and the stock air box with the silencer removed and a K&N panel filter intalled. Don't know what material the Moroso inlet tubes were made of.

Measuring impact would be easy enough though. All you'd have to do is tie your dig. volt meter into the signal produced by the ACT sensor. The increased voltage output is proportional to the increase in temperature. The tables of what voltage = what temperature are available. Set it up one way - measure ambient temps, note driving conditions. Have a passenger record voltages over time during a test drive. Then insulate, or replace the system - whatever you're gonna change - and try to emulate driving conditions in similar ambient temps and record again. If the voltages are lower, you've lowered intake air temps and that helps HP.
 
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