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Discussion Starter #1
After having problems with the clutch pedal being way too hard and the squeaking of the throwout bearing, I ordered a new steel retainer, throwout bearing, pinion bearing along with the king cobra clutch assembly.

Even after the new clutch install and taking it easy until it was broken in, the pedal was still hard and I could still hear the squeaking sound. With a little pressure on the pedal, it would disappear.

So I then ordered the Steeda Clutch Quadrent with the new clutch cable (I am kinda upset that I had to route it a different way from the stock posisition because its not a 94/95 cable that comes in the kit). After swaping out the cable, it was obvious that the old one was gunked up so I suspected that this was the cause of everything. Shortly after running normally, the pedal became hard again. I've tried adjusting the cable several times but that does not seem to be the problem. I still have that squeaking sound. What else could be wrong here? Could the clutch fork be bent? Is that something that could happen? The car is basically stock and this problem makes my car sound like a pos and makes it frustrating to drive. I hate it and now that I have spare time I want to get to the bottom of this once and for all. Thanks.
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:


4.10s steeda shortshift pullies K&N
 

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Just curious if the new throwout bearing was properly lubed with grease and that you used a clutch alignment tool when installing the new clutch? If not you need to pull the tranny again and replace the throw out bearing with a new one and make sure it is coated with grease and working properly.

I would then make sure that the shift fork is not bent or worn .You can refer to a haynes or chilton manual on what to look for when performing the inspection.

Lastly if the cable is routed improperly it can cause a hard to disengage problem.


Good Luck!
Robert
 

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When I did my clutch quadrant, I took apart the whole pedal assembly and lubed the shaft it rides on. There was some berring grease there before and I just cleanded the surface out and added new grease. The pedal felt much smoother, but I could still tell the difference between the factory cable and the aftermarket I am using. (It is not as smooth)
 

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When you have your bellhousing off, make sure all of the following have been replace:

Clutch (the reason for going in there in the first place

Release lever (USED to be called shift fork)

Release lever pivot

Input shaft bearing retainer (the steal one)

(resurface flywheel of course)

Now, there are some key place you have grease up! You have to grease where the throwout bearing makes contact with the pressure plate, and you have to lub the pivot, and ears/tabs on the release lever.

Make sure you use a really good TO bearing, not a stock replacement.

I replaced all the above, and mine drives great. I didn't touch my cable or quadrant, and everything is perfect.

One last SUPER important thing, make sure you have a new vibration damper on the front of your crank. One of the first places on your car to take damage because an old damper, are the components in your bellhousing. Check a car out with a bad damper, Run the engine, take off the inspection cover to the bellhousing, and watch the release lever bounce around like a crazy pos!
 

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Very good ideas on the thread here.What happened with my car was caused by the fork.I had a nasty hard pedal,with noise when i used the pedal.I had a McLeod bellhousing with a motorsport clutch(at the time),i needed to use a 86-93 fork with my car and the pedal is nice,im not saying its your problem,but its something to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks alot for all of your input. I can't wait to get down there to see whats really going on. My suspicion is that it could be the clutch fork. I'll get back to everyone on it soon. Thanks again.
 

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FYI

-93 = shift fork
94+ = release lever

Trust me, when you are down there, replace your:

release lever (45$)
pivot (15$?)
T/O Bearing
Steal Input shaft bearing retainer (45$? i forget)
 
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