It actually isn't an issue, since I lost a TON of weight once you consider the other major changes. I don't have a set of car scales, so IDK the actual numbers. The weight difference between an iron-headed 302 and an aluminum-headed 351 is negligible, so I have always considered my car to be about the same weight as a normal 1995 GT. In actuality, it's probably lighter by a healthy margin now.Wow, your car is sweet. How is that handling with the extra pounds of that 427??? Is it similar in weight to a 1995 Cobra R???
I have a carb-style Vic Jr intake, much lighter than the stock 94-95 setup. No throttle body, intake tube, EGR valve, smog pump, smog lines, etc. Holley Sniper with ECU built-in took about 8lbs out of the stock computer and emissions stuff below the passenger fender, plus the CCRM and wiring.
I lost 2+ pounds out of the rotating assembly going from my 351 to my 427. 1 pound in the crank, another pound between pistons and rods (rods are heavier, pistons are lighter, the difference is about 1lb there). Another 10ish pounds from steel to aluminum flywheel. Lightweight Innovator West balancer. Lighter valves, lighter-than-stock short travel roller lifters, lighter LS-engine springs, titanium retainers. All of that is good for RPMs, spinning up and down, and you can feel it.
Smog pump bracket was about 3 pounds, replaced with a Speed Doctor bracket >1lb (and moving the alternator much lower, still on the passenger side). 10 pounds for ABS deletion (never worked anyway). Whatever the AC compressor, condenser, lines were (they never worked anyway, plus...racecar). 12 pounds in the MAF Racing bumper support.
Then there's suspension, MM K Member, coilovers, battery in the trunk etc. Steeda 18x9 wheels are pretty light, aluminum DS, Corbeaus on manual tracks, all the sound system is gone, etc etc. But then I also gained some with increased oil and water capacity, 30 pounds with the Dart block, etc. All in all, I've probably taken 125 pounds out of the nose compared to a stock 1995 GT.
Some got gained back and moved rearward with the addition of the Watts link, Torque Arm, battery in trunk, heavier MM Extreme Duty LCAs, etc.
It's REALLY hard to say now that I typed all that out, all I know is handling is moving in the right direction no matter how the weight looks. And faster lap times are coming with it!
Can't wait to get 305s or 315s square. Stripping interior some stuff is on the list as well. I'll eventually rewire the car and ditch all the hacked-up factory stuff. I bought the car already modified, and someone had installed and then removed an alarm system, stuff like that.
About as well as can be expected for a road course suspension car with a 427 on "tiny" 275s lol.How does it do from a dig? Decent enough?
It lays down the power pretty well, to be fair. It's not scary or sketchy on the street, very mild-mannered when you want it to be. I've had it out in the rain and it's not bad then either. My old 351, you'd jump on the gas and it wouldn't do much, then about 4000 RPM power would come on hard and sudden and it'd spin. It also had the typical Mustang tendency to try to turn while taking off hard.
The power comes on so linearly with the 427w, there's no hit that just breaks the tires loose suddenly. Plus the rear end changes make it pull off straight and predictably. You just have to be aware of the power. When you jump on it, it'll let loose if you give it too much. I had a friend/coworker in the car, visiting a customer. Leaving, I pulled out on the street, shifted to second, then jumped on it. RPMs jumped waaaaay up, and we weren't moving very fast..... I thought I fried the clutch, transmission, rear end, something....till I looked in the rearview mirror and there were two solid black lines
I haven't put it on the drag strip yet, so no clue what it'll run. I'm too scared to hook really well until I do something about the transmission. It's an old-school Tremec TR-3550, probably installed around 2001, with 10 spline clutch and all. I think rated for 350 lb-ft and I'm making well over that. Next move will be a TKX and then I'll give it a try.
SFCs are a notable difference in NVH. If you're daily driving on Arkansas roads, you definitely notice a difference with all the squeaks and rattles.Don’t sweat the weight so much. Think about a 130 lb guy and a 170 lb guy racing in identical cars. It’ll still be a drivers race. Unless they’re driving something as light as a go kart that is I guess. Better analogy, 120 lb man and 220 lb man racing identical half-ton pickups. 100 lbs differences and it’s still a drivers race. Don’t throw away y’all’s cup holders in the name of speed.
The irony is without the seat braces the SFC’s are mostly just extra weight.
Edit My weight analogies primarily apply to street cars. Race cars- strip ‘em bare.
And if you're performance driving, you can feel the difference in the cars reaction as well, even untied to the seats. I had the short, round, no-seat-tie SFCs on my car before I cut them out last year to install the Stiffler's ones.
Of course, I agree that seat brackets should be tied into the SFCs. An important factor in racing isn't just the car, it's the driver. The floorpan/driver flexing relative to the subframes is a variable that can be reduced and add to the predictability in driving the car. You can more quickly feel what the car is doing, rather than having the pan flex because of the weight of the driver. That feeling that the car is gonna go where you're looking goes a long way toward trusting the car and shaving lap times.