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Wow, your car is sweet. How is that handling with the extra pounds of that 427??? Is it similar in weight to a 1995 Cobra R???
It actually isn't an issue, since I lost a TON of weight once you consider the other major changes. I don't have a set of car scales, so IDK the actual numbers. The weight difference between an iron-headed 302 and an aluminum-headed 351 is negligible, so I have always considered my car to be about the same weight as a normal 1995 GT. In actuality, it's probably lighter by a healthy margin now.

I have a carb-style Vic Jr intake, much lighter than the stock 94-95 setup. No throttle body, intake tube, EGR valve, smog pump, smog lines, etc. Holley Sniper with ECU built-in took about 8lbs out of the stock computer and emissions stuff below the passenger fender, plus the CCRM and wiring.

I lost 2+ pounds out of the rotating assembly going from my 351 to my 427. 1 pound in the crank, another pound between pistons and rods (rods are heavier, pistons are lighter, the difference is about 1lb there). Another 10ish pounds from steel to aluminum flywheel. Lightweight Innovator West balancer. Lighter valves, lighter-than-stock short travel roller lifters, lighter LS-engine springs, titanium retainers. All of that is good for RPMs, spinning up and down, and you can feel it.

Smog pump bracket was about 3 pounds, replaced with a Speed Doctor bracket >1lb (and moving the alternator much lower, still on the passenger side). 10 pounds for ABS deletion (never worked anyway). Whatever the AC compressor, condenser, lines were (they never worked anyway, plus...racecar). 12 pounds in the MAF Racing bumper support.

Then there's suspension, MM K Member, coilovers, battery in the trunk etc. Steeda 18x9 wheels are pretty light, aluminum DS, Corbeaus on manual tracks, all the sound system is gone, etc etc. But then I also gained some with increased oil and water capacity, 30 pounds with the Dart block, etc. All in all, I've probably taken 125 pounds out of the nose compared to a stock 1995 GT.

Some got gained back and moved rearward with the addition of the Watts link, Torque Arm, battery in trunk, heavier MM Extreme Duty LCAs, etc.

It's REALLY hard to say now that I typed all that out, all I know is handling is moving in the right direction no matter how the weight looks. And faster lap times are coming with it!

Can't wait to get 305s or 315s square. Stripping interior some stuff is on the list as well. I'll eventually rewire the car and ditch all the hacked-up factory stuff. I bought the car already modified, and someone had installed and then removed an alarm system, stuff like that.

How does it do from a dig? Decent enough?
About as well as can be expected for a road course suspension car with a 427 on "tiny" 275s lol.

It lays down the power pretty well, to be fair. It's not scary or sketchy on the street, very mild-mannered when you want it to be. I've had it out in the rain and it's not bad then either. My old 351, you'd jump on the gas and it wouldn't do much, then about 4000 RPM power would come on hard and sudden and it'd spin. It also had the typical Mustang tendency to try to turn while taking off hard.

The power comes on so linearly with the 427w, there's no hit that just breaks the tires loose suddenly. Plus the rear end changes make it pull off straight and predictably. You just have to be aware of the power. When you jump on it, it'll let loose if you give it too much. I had a friend/coworker in the car, visiting a customer. Leaving, I pulled out on the street, shifted to second, then jumped on it. RPMs jumped waaaaay up, and we weren't moving very fast..... :unsure: I thought I fried the clutch, transmission, rear end, something....till I looked in the rearview mirror and there were two solid black lines :cool:

I haven't put it on the drag strip yet, so no clue what it'll run. I'm too scared to hook really well until I do something about the transmission. It's an old-school Tremec TR-3550, probably installed around 2001, with 10 spline clutch and all. I think rated for 350 lb-ft and I'm making well over that. Next move will be a TKX and then I'll give it a try.

Don’t sweat the weight so much. Think about a 130 lb guy and a 170 lb guy racing in identical cars. It’ll still be a drivers race. Unless they’re driving something as light as a go kart that is I guess. Better analogy, 120 lb man and 220 lb man racing identical half-ton pickups. 100 lbs differences and it’s still a drivers race. Don’t throw away y’all’s cup holders in the name of speed. :p
The irony is without the seat braces the SFC’s are mostly just extra weight.
Edit My weight analogies primarily apply to street cars. Race cars- strip ‘em bare.
SFCs are a notable difference in NVH. If you're daily driving on Arkansas roads, you definitely notice a difference with all the squeaks and rattles.

And if you're performance driving, you can feel the difference in the cars reaction as well, even untied to the seats. I had the short, round, no-seat-tie SFCs on my car before I cut them out last year to install the Stiffler's ones.

Of course, I agree that seat brackets should be tied into the SFCs. An important factor in racing isn't just the car, it's the driver. The floorpan/driver flexing relative to the subframes is a variable that can be reduced and add to the predictability in driving the car. You can more quickly feel what the car is doing, rather than having the pan flex because of the weight of the driver. That feeling that the car is gonna go where you're looking goes a long way toward trusting the car and shaving lap times.
 

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...Unless they’re driving something as light as a go kart that is I guess...
Lol you should see me karting. I can pass people easily in the curves, but as soon as we hit the straights, they pass right by again. I weigh 360 and even the fast karts aren't fast with me in them. I probably make more an impact than anything else on my racecar. Most of the weight changes I made were for practicality anyway though.

On the plus side, I have lost 40 pounds since May. And still working on it. I want to get back down to freshman year college weight of 210. That was only 6 years ago 😨
 

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Lol you should see me karting. I can pass people easily in the curves, but as soon as we hit the straights, they pass right by again. I weigh 360 and even the fast karts aren't fast with me in them. I probably make more an impact than anything else on my racecar. Most of the weight changes I made were for practicality anyway though.

On the plus side, I have lost 40 pounds since May. And still working on it. I want to get back down to freshman year college weight of 210. That was only 6 years ago 😨
Ha! Fight the good fight. Do you think Steeda’s G-Trac would be worth while or is it just a stronger stock piece that’s best replaced when/if the stock one breaks. This is for a ‘95. Sorry for the thread jacking.
 

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Ha! Fight the good fight. Do you think Steeda’s G-Trac would be worth while or is it just a stronger stock piece that’s best replaced when/if the stock one breaks. This is for a ‘95. Sorry for the thread jacking.
I have no experience with the two-point braces.

I can't imagine the stock one makes all that much difference when there are so many other deficiencies, especially if you aren't running sticky tires and cornering hard. I had the 4 point brace on my 2001 convertible. It came off at one point, while I was doing a clutch swap, gear install, and some other stuff, and didn't go back on for a while. I didn't notice a difference. That car was pretty stock, though, stiffer sway bars, 3.73s, that sort of thing. Never tracked or autocrossed it, just hard driving on the mountain roads. I put it back on eventually, but then got rid of the car.

On the flip side, I know that Maximum Motorsports' instructions for their K Member recommend using the supplied 2 point brace even though their K is stiffer than stock. They don't sell much that isn't effective. And they probably wouldn't bother to include an extra piece with extra cost unless they felt it was needed. They even include spacers to move it down and clear LTs. (Still doesn't clear my oil pan, though.)

I pretty much stand behind my original comment, upgrading these should be low on the priority list if you want to make these cars handle, especially if someone is on a budget. Save the money you would spend on things like the strut tower brace and G Trac brace and just go ahead and do SFCs. Then save some more for track time to enjoy the car, tires, brakes, track time to enjoy the car, struts, springs, track time to enjoy the car, panhard bar, track time to enjoy the car, etc, in whatever order you want...then when you have a sticky, planted car and you're chasing the last bits of stiffness and speed on course, upgrade them.

I still don't have a STB installed on mine yet. I have one, still need to modify it to clear my engine. I'm taking my own advice about track time and enjoying the car next year, tho. Saving the money I have been spending on the car to visit some racetracks besides Hallett. I went to Eagles Canyon at the beginning of the month and raced a rented MGB to get my Vintage Racing Novice Permit and now I am itching to go in the Mustang. Getting to race a vintage MGB with 100 whp there was fun, can't wait to go with 550 whp and a real car.
 

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I have no experience with the two-point braces.

I can't imagine the stock one makes all that much difference when there are so many other deficiencies, especially if you aren't running sticky tires and cornering hard. I had the 4 point brace on my 2001 convertible. It came off at one point, while I was doing a clutch swap, gear install, and some other stuff, and didn't go back on for a while. I didn't notice a difference. That car was pretty stock, though, stiffer sway bars, 3.73s, that sort of thing. Never tracked or autocrossed it, just hard driving on the mountain roads. I put it back on eventually, but then got rid of the car.

On the flip side, I know that Maximum Motorsports' instructions for their K Member recommend using the supplied 2 point brace even though their K is stiffer than stock. They don't sell much that isn't effective. And they probably wouldn't bother to include an extra piece with extra cost unless they felt it was needed. They even include spacers to move it down and clear LTs. (Still doesn't clear my oil pan, though.)

I pretty much stand behind my original comment, upgrading these should be low on the priority list if you want to make these cars handle, especially if someone is on a budget. Save the money you would spend on things like the strut tower brace and G Trac brace and just go ahead and do SFCs. Then save some more for track time to enjoy the car, tires, brakes, track time to enjoy the car, struts, springs, track time to enjoy the car, panhard bar, track time to enjoy the car, etc, in whatever order you want...then when you have a sticky, planted car and you're chasing the last bits of stiffness and speed on course, upgrade them.

I still don't have a STB installed on mine yet. I have one, still need to modify it to clear my engine. I'm taking my own advice about track time and enjoying the car next year, tho. Saving the money I have been spending on the car to visit some racetracks besides Hallett. I went to Eagles Canyon at the beginning of the month and raced a rented MGB to get my Vintage Racing Novice Permit and now I am itching to go in the Mustang. Getting to race a vintage MGB with 100 whp there was fun, can't wait to go with 550 whp and a real car.
Maybe the stock ‘94/‘95 STB is bogus, but I can’t tell a difference when it’s on or off. I didn’t run it through the slalom cones though but I bet it would’ve been negligible.
 

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Maybe the stock ‘94/‘95 STB is bogus, but I can’t tell a difference when it’s on or off. I didn’t run it through the slalom cones though but I bet it would’ve been negligible.
I don't think they're bogus, per se, I just think they're designed for a purpose and not needed in most people's situation the way we expect. For a coilover car, I think there may be some limited benefit.

There are a lot of theories, this is mine: I think Ford added them primarily to reduce noise in the interior of the car. Some of the squeaks, rattles, etc when the car goes over bumps that we're all familiar with in a bone stock car. A lot of that comes from the dash and cowl area as the unibody flexes during sudden bumps in the road. The front right tire hits a pothole, while the rear stays static. The two ends of the car are twisting ever so slightly relative to one another. This makes the parts in between squeak and rattle.

My theory is that Ford wanted to gain control of those by linking them to a sturdy part of the unibody, the strut tower. By doing it as a strut tower brace, they could also claim some sort of performance benefit in their performance car.

I think having no STB and adding SFCs does a similar job in reducing noise inside the car and actually has a real world benefit on course.

I'm still gonna add one since I have 425lb/in coilover springs, stickier tires, I drive the car hard, and I'm starting to run out of things I want to do anyway. I am thinking of splitter/spoiler in the coming weeks, too.
 

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Im just sayin, you cant even tell swapping the factory off and on, bairly even 2lbs vs 10lbs MM onea...
Granted these are the SFC not the 2 points, but the MM braces are amazing at tightening the car up, yes, get them
 

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Maybe the stock ‘94/‘95 STB is bogus, but I can’t tell a difference when it’s on or off. I didn’t run it through the slalom cones though but I bet it would’ve been negligible.
I think it definitely helps. If it stops cowl shake then that means it is offering rigidity to the chassis against flex. I drive my car hard through corners and I have the maximum motorsports upper and lower chassis brace. I believe they help a lot with stiffening the chassis. The subframe connectors make it even better.
 
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