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Congrats on the new project!

That is a factory 2 point K Member brace. Type in "1994 Mustang K Member Brace" on google and you should get a lot of results.

Steeda calls this a "G-Trac Brace" and claims theirs is an upgrade over the factory one. It is a 2-point, like the original on yours, and just bolts into its place.

Maximum Motorsports makes an upgrade 4 point brace for the factory K member. Should clear factory exhaust (and some others) and work on manual trans cars. They have special notes for automatics.

If you just want a factory one, hit up the boneyards or here is one on eBay if you want to go that route.

The convertible cars also came with a 4 point brace. I'm not sure if it will even bolt on to a hardtop car, but I assume it might. Ford's intent with the 4 point was to replace the structural help of the roof by tying the K into the structure of the car.

That said, a good set of Maximum Motorsport's or Stiffler's Subframe Connectors (SFCs) will go a LONG way toward making the car better. My opinion, no matter your plan with the car, BUY SFCs. They help with the stiffness of the car, increasing the structural integrity, and they even cut down on a lot of the squeaks and rattles that these tend to have.

I've had a 1994 Mustang convertible, 2001 Mustang convertible, and 2000 Mustang hardtop in the past. If you jacked up the 2001 or 2000 cars on one corner (say, by the front control arm), you would have trouble opening the door. It would just be stuck. On the 2001 convertible, closing the door would not happen. The body of the car was twisting enough that the door no longer lined up. Neither of these cars had SFCs.

On the 1994 Mustang convertible, I had subframe connectors. I don't recall ever having that problem with it, and I had that car jacked up plenty. To be fair, I wasn't looking for it, as that was the first I owned out of the bunch. But my current 1995 Mustang hardtop with Stiffler's SFCs definitely doesn't have that issue.

I believe, and a lot of people would agree, that SFCs should be the first thing you do to one of these platform cars. I would put them on long before I spent the money on replacing the K member brace. It serves a purpose, but on the priority list, it would be lower than the K brace to me.
 

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any subframe connectors yet?

damn maximum motorsports, their stuff is like crack, once you start putting the pieces in you cant stop
Agreed...I went from a stock K, Steeda 650/250 conventional springs, and ooooold Tokico Illumina shocks all the way around to MM K member, FCAs, RLCAs, MM struts w/coilovers, torque arm, solid steering shaft, etc etc etc. Jack Hidley from MM is about as smart as they come with these cars.

It's a good enough suspension package to beat up on late-model 5.0s, GT350s, Boss 302s, etc at Hallett (well, with a lot of help from a 635hp 427w...)

My profile and build thread over on TrackMustangsOnline: "Chris' 351w Swapped 1995" Vehicle Profile - SN95 Mustangs

I used some other brand parts, like Stiffler's SFCs and trans crossmember, Fays2 Watts Link, etc, but the MM stuff would've probably done just as well for me in those cases.

CRACK.
 

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i looked into the Watts, but i dont have enough movement to justify it, i have less than 1/4 movement +/- with the long PHB so nbd for this guy lol
been looking at a CHI 638 bbf that would be almost the same exact weight as a alum headed factory 351... but so much more hp... im tired of these new 700+ 5.0's makin me look slow :cry:
but right now im in the middle of starting my first company, putting in a full drain/gutters at my house... been a very busy year and havn't touched the mustang in like a year and a half o_O:cautious::cry::eek:

checked the link, what the hell man, was that cracked out of the box? there is like no damage to anything?!?!?!
If it were me, I would stay away from the BBF route. Much more torque, but greater rotating assembly weight to spin up AND slow down under braking going into corners (if that's your bag). I can't imagine that the weights are that close, but suppose it's possible. The swap would be much more involved (time and cost) than going into a 351 based, since the 302 and 351 are so similar. It wouldn't be the route for me, but I can see the desire. I was really frustrated with my car at Hallett just last year. I was driving the balls off of it, still getting whooped by Boss 302s, late model 5.0s, etc. This year was muuuuuch more fun.

Are you talking about the piston? That was my old 351w, and the reason for the upgrade to the 427w. I don't know what happened to it, I bought the engine used from a guy that had it listed on RacingJunk in March 2018. It did fine for three years. Made a lot of noise, but never had a ton of power, so I was just tearing it down for a refresh and possibly a cam swap when I found that. It was fixable with a new piston, but the cylinders weren't the greatest, the heads were meh, the cam probably wasn't the best for my application and...I really wanted a 427 :)
 

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Wow, your car is sweet. How is that handling with the extra pounds of that 427??? Is it similar in weight to a 1995 Cobra R???
It actually isn't an issue, since I lost a TON of weight once you consider the other major changes. I don't have a set of car scales, so IDK the actual numbers. The weight difference between an iron-headed 302 and an aluminum-headed 351 is negligible, so I have always considered my car to be about the same weight as a normal 1995 GT. In actuality, it's probably lighter by a healthy margin now.

I have a carb-style Vic Jr intake, much lighter than the stock 94-95 setup. No throttle body, intake tube, EGR valve, smog pump, smog lines, etc. Holley Sniper with ECU built-in took about 8lbs out of the stock computer and emissions stuff below the passenger fender, plus the CCRM and wiring.

I lost 2+ pounds out of the rotating assembly going from my 351 to my 427. 1 pound in the crank, another pound between pistons and rods (rods are heavier, pistons are lighter, the difference is about 1lb there). Another 10ish pounds from steel to aluminum flywheel. Lightweight Innovator West balancer. Lighter valves, lighter-than-stock short travel roller lifters, lighter LS-engine springs, titanium retainers. All of that is good for RPMs, spinning up and down, and you can feel it.

Smog pump bracket was about 3 pounds, replaced with a Speed Doctor bracket >1lb (and moving the alternator much lower, still on the passenger side). 10 pounds for ABS deletion (never worked anyway). Whatever the AC compressor, condenser, lines were (they never worked anyway, plus...racecar). 12 pounds in the MAF Racing bumper support.

Then there's suspension, MM K Member, coilovers, battery in the trunk etc. Steeda 18x9 wheels are pretty light, aluminum DS, Corbeaus on manual tracks, all the sound system is gone, etc etc. But then I also gained some with increased oil and water capacity, 30 pounds with the Dart block, etc. All in all, I've probably taken 125 pounds out of the nose compared to a stock 1995 GT.

Some got gained back and moved rearward with the addition of the Watts link, Torque Arm, battery in trunk, heavier MM Extreme Duty LCAs, etc.

It's REALLY hard to say now that I typed all that out, all I know is handling is moving in the right direction no matter how the weight looks. And faster lap times are coming with it!

Can't wait to get 305s or 315s square. Stripping interior some stuff is on the list as well. I'll eventually rewire the car and ditch all the hacked-up factory stuff. I bought the car already modified, and someone had installed and then removed an alarm system, stuff like that.

How does it do from a dig? Decent enough?
About as well as can be expected for a road course suspension car with a 427 on "tiny" 275s lol.

It lays down the power pretty well, to be fair. It's not scary or sketchy on the street, very mild-mannered when you want it to be. I've had it out in the rain and it's not bad then either. My old 351, you'd jump on the gas and it wouldn't do much, then about 4000 RPM power would come on hard and sudden and it'd spin. It also had the typical Mustang tendency to try to turn while taking off hard.

The power comes on so linearly with the 427w, there's no hit that just breaks the tires loose suddenly. Plus the rear end changes make it pull off straight and predictably. You just have to be aware of the power. When you jump on it, it'll let loose if you give it too much. I had a friend/coworker in the car, visiting a customer. Leaving, I pulled out on the street, shifted to second, then jumped on it. RPMs jumped waaaaay up, and we weren't moving very fast..... :unsure: I thought I fried the clutch, transmission, rear end, something....till I looked in the rearview mirror and there were two solid black lines :cool:

I haven't put it on the drag strip yet, so no clue what it'll run. I'm too scared to hook really well until I do something about the transmission. It's an old-school Tremec TR-3550, probably installed around 2001, with 10 spline clutch and all. I think rated for 350 lb-ft and I'm making well over that. Next move will be a TKX and then I'll give it a try.

Don’t sweat the weight so much. Think about a 130 lb guy and a 170 lb guy racing in identical cars. It’ll still be a drivers race. Unless they’re driving something as light as a go kart that is I guess. Better analogy, 120 lb man and 220 lb man racing identical half-ton pickups. 100 lbs differences and it’s still a drivers race. Don’t throw away y’all’s cup holders in the name of speed. :p
The irony is without the seat braces the SFC’s are mostly just extra weight.
Edit My weight analogies primarily apply to street cars. Race cars- strip ‘em bare.
SFCs are a notable difference in NVH. If you're daily driving on Arkansas roads, you definitely notice a difference with all the squeaks and rattles.

And if you're performance driving, you can feel the difference in the cars reaction as well, even untied to the seats. I had the short, round, no-seat-tie SFCs on my car before I cut them out last year to install the Stiffler's ones.

Of course, I agree that seat brackets should be tied into the SFCs. An important factor in racing isn't just the car, it's the driver. The floorpan/driver flexing relative to the subframes is a variable that can be reduced and add to the predictability in driving the car. You can more quickly feel what the car is doing, rather than having the pan flex because of the weight of the driver. That feeling that the car is gonna go where you're looking goes a long way toward trusting the car and shaving lap times.
 

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...Unless they’re driving something as light as a go kart that is I guess...
Lol you should see me karting. I can pass people easily in the curves, but as soon as we hit the straights, they pass right by again. I weigh 360 and even the fast karts aren't fast with me in them. I probably make more an impact than anything else on my racecar. Most of the weight changes I made were for practicality anyway though.

On the plus side, I have lost 40 pounds since May. And still working on it. I want to get back down to freshman year college weight of 210. That was only 6 years ago 😨
 

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Ha! Fight the good fight. Do you think Steeda’s G-Trac would be worth while or is it just a stronger stock piece that’s best replaced when/if the stock one breaks. This is for a ‘95. Sorry for the thread jacking.
I have no experience with the two-point braces.

I can't imagine the stock one makes all that much difference when there are so many other deficiencies, especially if you aren't running sticky tires and cornering hard. I had the 4 point brace on my 2001 convertible. It came off at one point, while I was doing a clutch swap, gear install, and some other stuff, and didn't go back on for a while. I didn't notice a difference. That car was pretty stock, though, stiffer sway bars, 3.73s, that sort of thing. Never tracked or autocrossed it, just hard driving on the mountain roads. I put it back on eventually, but then got rid of the car.

On the flip side, I know that Maximum Motorsports' instructions for their K Member recommend using the supplied 2 point brace even though their K is stiffer than stock. They don't sell much that isn't effective. And they probably wouldn't bother to include an extra piece with extra cost unless they felt it was needed. They even include spacers to move it down and clear LTs. (Still doesn't clear my oil pan, though.)

I pretty much stand behind my original comment, upgrading these should be low on the priority list if you want to make these cars handle, especially if someone is on a budget. Save the money you would spend on things like the strut tower brace and G Trac brace and just go ahead and do SFCs. Then save some more for track time to enjoy the car, tires, brakes, track time to enjoy the car, struts, springs, track time to enjoy the car, panhard bar, track time to enjoy the car, etc, in whatever order you want...then when you have a sticky, planted car and you're chasing the last bits of stiffness and speed on course, upgrade them.

I still don't have a STB installed on mine yet. I have one, still need to modify it to clear my engine. I'm taking my own advice about track time and enjoying the car next year, tho. Saving the money I have been spending on the car to visit some racetracks besides Hallett. I went to Eagles Canyon at the beginning of the month and raced a rented MGB to get my Vintage Racing Novice Permit and now I am itching to go in the Mustang. Getting to race a vintage MGB with 100 whp there was fun, can't wait to go with 550 whp and a real car.
 

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Maybe the stock ‘94/‘95 STB is bogus, but I can’t tell a difference when it’s on or off. I didn’t run it through the slalom cones though but I bet it would’ve been negligible.
I don't think they're bogus, per se, I just think they're designed for a purpose and not needed in most people's situation the way we expect. For a coilover car, I think there may be some limited benefit.

There are a lot of theories, this is mine: I think Ford added them primarily to reduce noise in the interior of the car. Some of the squeaks, rattles, etc when the car goes over bumps that we're all familiar with in a bone stock car. A lot of that comes from the dash and cowl area as the unibody flexes during sudden bumps in the road. The front right tire hits a pothole, while the rear stays static. The two ends of the car are twisting ever so slightly relative to one another. This makes the parts in between squeak and rattle.

My theory is that Ford wanted to gain control of those by linking them to a sturdy part of the unibody, the strut tower. By doing it as a strut tower brace, they could also claim some sort of performance benefit in their performance car.

I think having no STB and adding SFCs does a similar job in reducing noise inside the car and actually has a real world benefit on course.

I'm still gonna add one since I have 425lb/in coilover springs, stickier tires, I drive the car hard, and I'm starting to run out of things I want to do anyway. I am thinking of splitter/spoiler in the coming weeks, too.
 
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