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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone changed it without removing the timing cover? How did you pull out the old seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You mangle the crap out of it and pull. It has a good amount of press.
That's what I was thinking as that sucker is in there tight.
 

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Oh it's real tight and an inside jaw puller is just about useless and the cover and seal are basically.flush with each other and you wouldn't know if the jaw is on the seal or cover. Start prying the seal flange all the way around while pulling
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh it's real tight and an inside jaw puller is just about useless and the cover and seal are basically.flush with each other and you wouldn't know if the jaw is on the seal or cover. Start prying the seal flange all the way around while pulling
I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull everything off of the front of engine but I may have to. I can see my elbow going through the AC condenser. Have you ever seen a weak front seal; Woody? It's a new seal but when I get a mirror up in there; it looks like the seal isn't touching the balancer on one side. It only leaks under boost and I have great crankcase ventilation. The leaking just started.
 

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I replaced a front seal on the car.
As Woody said, mangle it.
I think I took a flat screwdriver and got it between the seal flange and the cover and started pounding it.
Getting the new one was a chore to get started (mainly getting it straight).

I've heard it's possible the timing cover is not centered on the balancer even with the dowels in place. Installing the seal and balancer with the cover slightly loose helps get it centered.
 

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They rarely leak, the seal itself is on the inside, like the rear main. Dust shield is on the outside. The addition of dowel pins was to get the seal squared on the snout. I assume your block uses dowel pins. Also there is a spring on the inside of the seal, just like a rear main seal, to apply slight pressure. I have seen plenty of seals with the spring missing. You need to cobble together a lever type of pull. Lineman type of pliers to pull the flange away from the cover. Your not going to just pull straight toward the radiator with pliers. It need to be a lever system that doubles. Like a come along does. Nothing about it, is fun, but certainly doable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They rarely leak, the seal itself is on the inside, like the rear main. Dust shield is on the outside. The addition of dowel pins was to get the seal squared on the snout. I assume your block uses dowel pins. Also there is a spring on the inside of the seal, just like a rear main seal, to apply slight pressure. I have seen plenty of seals with the spring missing. You need to cobble together a lever type of pull. Lineman type of pliers to pull the flange away from the cover. Your not going to just pull straight toward the radiator with pliers. It need to be a lever system that doubles. Like a come along does. Nothing about it, is fun, but certainly doable.
I've never had one leak. Good point on the spring. That would be my luck.
It sounds like a real knuckle buster but I figured as much. Thanks Woody!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I replaced a front seal on the car.
As Woody said, mangle it.
I think I took a flat screwdriver and got it between the seal flange and the cover and started pounding it.
Getting the new one was a chore to get started (mainly getting it straight).

I've heard it's possible the timing cover is not centered on the balancer even with the dowels in place. Installing the seal and balancer with the cover slightly loose helps get it centered.
Thanks!
 

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You've prolly already done this, but have you checked to see if you could get by with putting a sleeve on the balancer? Might save a lotta aggravation instead of trying to pull the seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You've prolly already done this, but have you checked to see if you could get by with putting a sleeve on the balancer? Might save a lotta aggravation instead of trying to pull the seal?
Good idea but not sure it's an option.
 
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