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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am not a total idiot, but I have never changed the front brake lines. will all the fluid try to drain out? Is there a clamp or a plug? If anyone has done this and can help, please chime in.

Also- Where do you recommend that I look for S/S brake lines? How much should I expect to pay?

Thanks for sharing

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate that, but my concern is more that I have never bled the brakes or swapped out brake lines. I dont really want to screw that up without help.lol

Gary
 

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haynes manual usually has good stuff. Borrow a piston compressor and definitely a vac pump/bleeder from a autozone or a place that's rents tools--it will save you a lot of time and effort!! It's a straight forward, (logical) job, just don't over torque (i.e. strip) and get fluid on the paint. Only problem on our cars is the sheet metal springs on the rears if I recall...

What calipers are you swapping to? Steel lines? At Summit--Goodridge lines around $50 or so depending on caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am swapping to PBR twin piston calipers. The caliper swap, I am not sweating at all. Its the brake line swap. I have never done it before, and all I keep hearing is "dont let air bubbles into the ABS". So i am kinda concerned about the line swap.

gary
 

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but I have never changed the front brake lines. will all the fluid try to drain out? Is there a clamp or a plug?
yes fluid will come out. Top off your master cylinder and put the lid back on. This will reduce the amount that comes out. You never want the master cylinder to empty or else you'll have to bleed that which is more work. You can then disconnect the flexible brake line where it connects to the hard line on the chassis. Leave it attached to the frame and unscrew the hard line fitting. Having a line wrench is a good idea so that you don't strip the rather soft fittings. It'll start leaking as you unscrew it, but it'll be slow enough not to worry about it. Once it's off I cap it off with a very clean short piece of vacuum line that I have a bolt screwed into one end. It ain't perfect, but it stops the dripping until I can put it back together. You can then remove the flex line from the chassis mount. I found a long screwdriver works best to pop the retainer out. And then remove the line from the caliper and finally the caliper from the car. Reverse the order to install, but before you do check the master cylinder and top off as necessary.

all I keep hearing is "dont let air bubbles into the ABS"
the only way you'll get air into the ABS lines is to break one of those lines. You don't need to touch the black lines that run to the ABS wheel sensors by the hub.

Get a one-man brake bleeder kit at a auto parts store. It's only a few $ and makes bleeding easy. Basically it's a small bottle with a one way valve in the lid, and a line that runs from the lid that you attach to the bleed screw on the caliper. Since it's probably been awhile since this was done I'd do all four wheels and run enough fluid through until you see nice clean fluid comming out the calipers.
 

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I posted this over at StangNet but thought you guys might want it too.

I spoke with www.motiveproducts.com yesterday and they recently released a new "twist-on" cap for their Power Bleeder just for Mustangs. It is not on their site yet, but they have it if you call.
 

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I used the vacuum bleader when I did mine too. Just the cheap POS from Autozone.

My lines are the Pro3i ones from Stangnet's partshopper:

http://www.partshopper.com/catalog/itemdisplay/411.html

I got mine second hand (unused) but missing parts. I didn't get the banjo bolts or crush washers with mine. I got the missing parts from Baer Racing. The only PITA part of the install is filing down the little tab in the bracket that the big end of the line mounts to.

Shawn
 
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