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Discussion Starter #1
ok heres the setup on a car
---377 sportsman based stroker, AFR 205 heads, decent solid roller cam, 2" custom headers, PA c-4 tranny, nd will run some nitrous (100-200 shot, not sure)


I'm expecting 500 RWHP without the juice, and will spray from there. Pro-Systems is doing the carb for it. The car 'WILL' be in the 9's or i'm burning it to the ground :evil:

What type of fuel system do I need? specific part numbers would be nice. Start at the fuel cell and walk me through it please. Saving money would be nice, but I'm not worried about a $100 when it comes to a $10,000 motor, if you catch my drift

THANKS ;)
 

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aeromotive makes a carb fuel system that includes a sumped tank -8AN supply line, fuel pump, regulator and all the fittings you need.

This is the only route I'd go with combo like yours.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've looked at the kit. Does everyone feel the included pump is enough?

I've put the fittings on the end of SS hoses before so a little customization isnt a concern. Maybe run the kit, and a seperate pump for the nitrous, and a 2-4 port regulator, i dont know?

thanks
 

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Street time? Or Strip only?

Ive looked into the aeromotive stuff for a few other people and I dont think they are the End-all to fuel supply.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats what I'm saying kim, kinda :)

I know that the areomotive stuff isnt the best. The car will be 90% strip, occasional cruising on the drag, and possibly some of the true street type races.

The car is already setup for a 5 or 7 gallon fuel cell, so thats what i'm going to run.
 

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Ive had very good luck with the BG stuff. A little pricey, but its held up well, and performed above Barry's claims.

HAve to hit their web site to give you an honest answere on which pump. The 220 or 280 is actually rated for street use. THe other is a smaller race pump. THe race pumps build to much heat and require a step down box to cut current to make them last. They are built for 10 seconds of max flow.... and then shut it down.

I rna a BG400 on the street for a little less than 2 years, it lasted about a year with no step down box, and daily driving duties.

220 or 280 GPH free flow should be fine for a carb atop that engine. You only need 6 to 7 psi, to feed the carb. When you add the N2O your going to have to add another fuel system. You dont want to mess with pressure fluctuations when the N2O is activated, dont even dream about a 1 pump system.

Ron's fuel systems (the flying toilet bowl) offurs a pretty nice 25 micron filter element that you can use before the pump if your going to run pump gas. If your going to jug the car, then I would get a funnel with a 25 micron strainer and not worry about cavitating the pump. Run a decent 15 to 25 micron filter after the pump to keep crap geting lodged in the needle and seat.

Ide run from cell to the pump with 10AN or equivilant hard line. THen 10 to the regulator. Feed the carb with 6an or 8an, either will work. Mine is all plumbed with 8, 10 running to the pump.

BG will run an 8 return line right from the pump, so you need not plumb a return all the way to the rear from the regulator.

Volume is good, fuel systems is one place you cant move TOO much.


For the N2O you duplicate the set-up. ALthough for that small a shot, the street pump would definatly suffice.
 

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For a really good fuel system I would strongly recommend a Magnaflow Prostar 500 pump with a filter and a Magnaflow dual regulator log with 2 two port regulators. One regulator for the carb and one for spray.I would also recommend getting their air bleed for the nitrous side. I ran -12 from the cell to the pump and -10 from the pump to the regulator log,it also requires a -08 line for the bypass from the pump back to your cell. I had this on my street car for a year now and the stuff works great. Magnaflow tech #719-532-1897
 

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kim said:
When you add the N2O your going to have to add another fuel system. You dont want to mess with pressure fluctuations when the N2O is activated, dont even dream about a 1 pump system.
I completely agree.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
kim,

thanks for the great info so far. I'm starting to get an idea of what to do, so follow along with this one.

Get the aeromotive setup, without the tank. run the included pump as the nitrous one and put a nice BG pump for the main engine feed. Just need 2 regulators and some extra fuel line?

thanks
 

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I ran my 1 pump system all year my car goes real low 9s at 149mph you do not need the expense and complexity of two pumps when one big pump will fit the bill. I started out using a big BG pump and a Holley blue for the nitrous and had trouble.When I bought my Nitrous Proflow plate I called and talked to Brandon Swietser and this is the fuel system he recommended. Call Magnaflow and talk to someone that knows whats going on I think you will be glad you did.
 

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kim said:
When you add the N2O your going to have to add another fuel system. You dont want to mess with pressure fluctuations when the N2O is activated, dont even dream about a 1 pump system.
This is where I have a question. I run a BG400 pump on a 557BBF with NX Gemini N2O and only one pump. Actually I talked to a guy from NX and he recommended using only one big pump. Right in the instructions from NX it states:
It is not necessary or recommended to use a dedicated fuel pump for your nitrous system if you have followed our fuel pump guidelines
their guidelines are as stated
10-slower 110gph
9-9.99 250gph
8-8.99 300gph
7-7.99 400gph
6.99 or quicker 500gph
 

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The carb or carbs need a certian volume, and only about 6 psi at the needle and seat. Up to 11 is doable, but not really recomended. For SMALL low Hp alcohol applications they will push 11 psi to keep the volume high in the bowl at WOT. But you can have problems pushing the needle off the seat.

N2O is a fixed orafice (you can change the pills) but there are ways to "tune" the N2O hit. Same as a stock EFI system, you can boost fuel pressure or lower fuel pressure to change the volume your pushing through the orafice. Its cheaper and easier to tune that way than buying a jet (or JETS) in every size to tweak the N2O tune. Bottle pressure is the alternate tunning methode, but you can only get sooo high, and bottle pressure fluctuates through the run.


So if you want to tune to the UMPTH a dual fuel pump and feed system is the way to go.


Free flow volume recomendations are fine for meeting HP demands of a basic (NA engine, but to standardise N2O and or forced induction and an NA system as equal... ) They dont have to buy the new pistons, nor are they tunning to win the race. Standard kits are purposely FAT.
 

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here is my fuel system

8 gallon fuel cell
russell fuel filter
holley blue pump with regulator
-8an lines from front to rear
holley 650 dp hp series




although you have way more engine i like this fuel system except for the loud whine from the fuel pump.anyone know how to quiet it down??


i also plan on spraying a possible 200-250 shot on it in the near future
 

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Add another pump if your going to spray it.

Quieting, I used the BG provided band clamp, I used a 1/8" thick piece of rubber between the band clamp and the motor body.

I also used a solid base mount, placed 1/8" rubber between pump and base.

I used 1/8" rubber between the mounts and the bulkhead the pump was mounted to, and the bulk head was mounted with rubber to the car. THe pump BG400 was little louder than several friends 220gph waalburo intank pumps.
 

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I always think about it this way: What happens when your in the shower and someone, for example, turns on the faucet at the kitchen sink? (besides the temp change and some swear words :lol: ) What happens to the water pressure in the shower? Just an example of one supply trying to feed 2 outlets.
 

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StangLX302 said:
I always think about it this way: What happens when your in the shower and someone, for example, turns on the faucet at the kitchen sink? (besides the temp change and some swear words :lol: ) What happens to the water pressure in the shower? Just an example of one supply trying to feed 2 outlets.
The difference in that is the engine isnt using the fuel that is provided by the 400 pump. The pump operates at 25psi and the engine requires 7psi. When the N2O is operated the fuel pressure and/or volume to the engine isnt lowered. Ive watched the gauges and havent seen it drop! Isnt pressure relevant to volume in this case? If the volume was to drop so would the pressure to a point in an instant.
I think I would take NXs advice on this subject but then again like the guy told me Fuel Systems is a sore subject. Ask 50 people and most of time you have 50 different answers.

My sytem works beautifully and I dont see any reason to change it. Mind you this is on an 8 sec car and not an everyday driver. So definately at lower power levels the one pump system will work like a charm.
 

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Pressure is relative to volume, and The BG400 pump will pump in excess of 25 psi but it dont like it. We shut the relief valve (by-pass) completly down when we dyno'd my engine, so we saw idle pressure at the pump of 40 to 45 psi. At 7500 RPM we saw the pressure at the regulator drop from 11 psi and continue down, by 8500 RPM it was only reading 8 psi at the regulator. 400gph is free flow rateing, that means against zero resistance.

So long as what you have is working, more power to you. I will try to advise people to error on the overkill side of fuel system design, too much volume results in notiing more than a cool pump and lots of fuel returned to the cell. Too little volume, hot pump, and a hot engine... or worse, holed pistons etc.
 
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