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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 87 5.0 , my current set-up was speed density, vortech blower ( a-trim ) and 75 shot of NOS! Decent power but blew too mnay head gaskets. And I'm sick of ripping apart this engine and throwing more on. ( no the heads are not warped )

I sold my s/c today and comtimplating going carb.

Is this a good idea? What is the best carb for a 5.0. Is it possible to go 4 barrel?

For those that run carbs , give me the ups and downs.

I personally think this is a great move on my part. They are easy to work on and are cheap.

Please enlighten me. :p
 

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If the engine is mostly stock a 600 dp would be the best choice bc my carb is a 650 and is to big it is slugigsh off the line until you hit about 1900 rpm
You will need a new distributer too
 

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a 650 is good for your basic street strip motor. i will give you a tip on blowing head gaskets, put arp head studs in it, thatll stop them from blowing. ups on a carb, easy tuning, more power through a broader rpm range, you can do tons of mods before you have to go up in carb size, better gas mileage than most fi cars, cleaner engine bay, and yes you can get great throttle response with a carb. downs, they are very picky, the weather changes the car drives different, on ocassion the needles get stuck open and floods the car(pain in the when youre driving), the need to warm up the car before you can drive. there arent to many downs on a carb, the negative people are just ones that dont have any knowledge on carbs. if your car has no real mods meaning all engine parts are stock you would look for a carb in the 500 -600 size.
 

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In general:

Carbs will make more power, but sacrifice driveability, especially in cold weather starts, etc. They are easier to tune, but they need tuned up on a regular basis. They are also less reliable for daily drivers as they can get dirty or clogged easier because more of them is exposed to air/dirt.

Injectors are a pain to tune initially, but once they are set, they take no maintenance and are generally very reliable. Injectors take a lot more stuff - wires, sensors, injectors, MAF, etc. Injectors deliver fuel more smoothly and are easier to control in winter.

I could easily talk you into or out of one or the other. It is merely a personal choice. I prefer EFI for daily drivers and carbs for racers or the classics that are fune to mess with.
 

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Dont for get about the cost. Carbs are much cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oki!!!! nice stuff!!!

now i will let u kno what my engine has done to it.

AFR alumine heads, eletric fan, forged pistons. I have good lifters and rollers but forgot exactly what they are. no power stering, no heat , no a/c. And yes I wont drive this car everyday. and i dont drive it @ all in the winter..

any specific brand make. and what size??

again thanks alot.
 

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I'm runnig a carbed motor. I agree on the cold starts. I have a Holley 650 with no choke. Fun, fun. I also agree with the neater engine bay. If I could figure out how to post pics I would post mine.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think i will go with the holly 650.

You guys dont really understand how much your input helps. Thanks again.

Also ,do I need a new manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
anyone with carb pics on there 302 post em up. ;)

BTW you have any times on your holly 650? like 1/4 or 1/8

or any hp gains?? Anyone else recommend the holly 650?
 

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a 650 is best for that setup. just go with the reg. 650 not the hp. as for #'s i went 12.80 with a 650 and performer intake, 1.7 rockers elec. fan, full headers and 3.73 gears, automatic and reg tires. and yes i have time slips. with your motor id go with a performer rpm also, port matched to your heads. good luck with it.
 

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MY "new" car went this on a 93 short block, motorsport shorty headers, 3.73's and electric fans, and a B303 cam


Weiand action plus (basically a stock replacement 4BBL carb similar to the Edelbrock performer) and Holley 600 carb, best 13.10 @103.5ish on a 1.72 60 ft.


Same bottom end with a Weiand Stealth intake and 650 Holley Double [email protected] on a 1.73 60 ft.

The 600 is a vaccum secondary and the 650 is a double pumper...

The Vaccum secondary runs off the usually front two barrels, and the other two come on once a certain vaccum is met (higher Rpm) This is your best bet for a lot of street driving with mostly stock engine. This can be adjusted by the vaccum springs, jets etc. The carb is fed by one accerator pump on one of the bowls.

The double pumper has a double feed line, two accerator pumps, and runs all four barrels at all times, not the best for economy, but the fuel is there when you mat it, vs a slight lag time with a vaccum secondary carb.

I am not an expert on carbs by any means, just trying to tell you the differences as you asked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
nice numbers,

and thanks alot for these reply's!!!! very excited now. May I ask any of u lads what manfoilds u are running with ur 650? And what disturbter?

also I'm going with a wet kit for my carb set-up. What is the best wet kit. And will it be easy to hook up to the carb?
 
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