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Discussion Starter #1
When I did the KOER test (engine running), I gave it WOT but the engine wouldn't go past 3000rpm and the check engine light was flickering at 3000rpm.

I then got TP and VAF sensor error codes, and since i gave it WOT, the throttle position sensor should have read ok even though the RPMS were limited.

Perhaps both of those are messed up or could the rev limit of 3000rpm cause the other code by accident?

Thanks
 

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Have you put your distributor in a tooth off?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Whats that mean? Did I accidentally do it or did I do that to diagnose the problem?

I'm a new mustang owner, although I'm more familiar with the inline SOHC 4cylinder turbo I also own (turbocoupe).

Why would I put the distributor or the timing belt off a tooth? Do you think my main problem is my timing?
 

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r3lic76 said:
Whats that mean?
Simply that, if you had recently done a head gasket change, where you had pulled the distributor, it is really easy to reinstall the distributor one tooth of the gear off of perfect. This will give very high timing down low, (not a lope, but a fast purr), and nothing up top.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i havn't done anything to the car, and my car has and still does idle at 600rpm so there is no change in my idle and low RPM range power or engine sound

i forgot about testing the TPS, i did it before on my turbocoupe but my voltmeter is kinda crappy - not accurate enough, but if i don't see it go upto 4volts then I know it's bad

thanks for the help
 

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just to add to 94blowncobra....

in addition to checking closed and open voltage, watch your voltmeter while you "open" the accelerator, it should not stick anywhere...the voltage increase should be as smooth as the opening of the throttle blade......
 

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mine did it and it was a clogged cat. I busted it out with a "ram rod" and a sleg hammer. I couldn't notice in the exhaust pressure but once i ran staight headers, the power was back
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i bought an OBD2 code reader but it didn't work since i just found out my car is obd1

so i had a mechanic do a diagnostic, he said it was probably a bad MASS air sensor so instead of paying $300 for parts/labor i bought a remanufactured MASS air for $65 at AUtozone and my car runs great

thanks a bunch
 
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